Acrylic splash backs

[joiner1970]

Ive got a kitchen starting next week and the customer wants acrylic splashbacks fitted. Wren are supplying these and they are called TEK GLAZE . Has anyone here fitted these and has any tips for me.

I was thinking of maybe getting 6mm mdf and making templates then using the ts55 on slow to cut roughly then clamp to the template and use a router trim to cut to size.

Also how is it fixed ? Ive seen the lustrolite videos is it fixed the same way.

Wren are next to useless and can't give me any info.

 

[philphilop]

The plastics people, Leeds, do a range of acrylic glues, fix a 9mm WBP plywood to the wall, perfectly straight as as any indulations will be exagerated on the acrylic, or fasten the acrylic to the ply before you stick it to the wall

 

[joiner1970]

This stuff is about 5mm thick and goes straight on a flat wall apparently.  Ply would bring it out too far how would you hide the edges ?

 

[philphilop]

This stuff is about 5mm thick and goes straight on a flat wall apparently.  Ply would bring it out too far how would you hide the edges ?

I always make up the panels and fix acrylic edging on exposed edges, as the panels are coloured through you can round off and polish the edges to a point where you cannot see the joint, therefore fining the effect of a 15mm thick panel, far more professional than just sticking it to the wall and leaving a 5/6mm exposed edge as recommended by Wren.

 

[joiner1970]

Don't think these are coloured through. Not on the samples in the shop anyway

 

[philphilop]

Don't think these are coloured through. Not on the samples in the shop anyway

So the exposed edge is not designed to be exposed, never come across this with acrylics, they are supposed to give the effect of solid colour or pattern.

 

[Caly]

Has you have the ts55 you would only need to layout your cut sizes allow a couple of mill for expansion and............cut.
Make sure you are on a solid flat board and , use low modulus adhesive  and arris the edges off just slightly.

We have never had problems cutting it this way.

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

As Caly said, this is how I've cut all the Acrylic panels I've fitted. No need to Rout after cutting with a TS55. It may be worth getting the Acrylic blade from Festool if you have a lot of cuts to make now and in the future, as it does cut REALLY clean...!!!!!

Just a quick rub over the cut end with a bit of Wet & Dry paper (used Wet) and then I finish my ends off by hand with an old 500 grit Platin pad, again used slightly damp.
It comes up a treat !!!!!!! No saw blade marks visible.

On the Lustrolite that I mainly fit, they send an Installation Kit, and in it is some 3M double-sided tape. It allows the panels to be held to the wall whilst the Low Modulous Silicone has the time to cure.

If you have any power points to cut out, make sure you drill a 10mm hole in the corner of EACH & EVERY cut out. Don't leave any internal R/A corners.

Good Luck for next week!!

Tim.

 

[joiner1970]

Cheers guys , watched the lustrolite video and saw the double sided tape. Not sure this stuff comes with it. All I've been told is it comes with a polishing kit for the edges.

Will my fine 48 tooth blade cut it ok. I've got my carvex for socket cut outs and will do like you say and drill the corners.

Guessing it can't go behind a range cooker.

I won't be doing it this week, fitting kitchen then the quartz tops are going in then I will come back to do splashbacks.

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

If the range cooker has an Induction top then it should be fine, if normal electric top or gas, then definitely not!!!!!

I'm sure the 48 tooth blade will cut it ok, its just the rake angle on that blade is a bit aggressive compared with the Festool Acrylic blade (Negative rake). Try it on a spare/scrap bit first.

 

[Davej]

You'd be better with a negative rake tcg blade than the standard fine tooth atb blade for plastic.
Dave

 

[Caly]

If the range cooker has an Induction top then it should be fine, if normal electric top or gas, then definitely not!!!!!

I'm sure the 48 tooth blade will cut it ok, its just the rake angle on that blade is a bit aggressive compared with the Festool Acrylic blade (Negative rake). Try it on a spare/scrap bit first.

the blade  I use is the 48t, triple chip, as for the cut outs with carvex I would be careful, I usually use a small trimmer type router and do them free hand with some masking tape to both set out and also to protect the sheet.

 

[joiner1970]

Yeah I had thought of using a trimmer and making an mdf template for the sockets

 

[rst]

Acrylics should never have internal cutouts without routing the finished edge.  The reason for this is that acrylics expand and contract drastically with temperature changes and saw cuts leave micro stress points that will crack easy when the movement takes place.  An 8' long piece of 1/4" acrylic can expand over 1/4" with heat.  This is also why, when attaching with screws the holes must be oversize and the head not overly tight.

 

[joiner1970]

Update : kitchen units fitted ready for quartz fitting on Monday. Then I'm going back to do these splashbacks. They're having glass behind the range and acrylic everywhere else.

It hasn't come with anything to fix it but has come with a sanding/polishing kit for the edges.

What do you guys fix it with low modulus silicone ? I wonder if stixall which I use for most other stuff would be ok

The walls are not very flat but I'm hoping I can dob it out in places if needed

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Yes, Low Modulus sealant is what I use.

In the past, when a wall has a kink/dip in it, or is slightly off vertical, I have stuck those coloured plastic packers on the wall first to act as a depth stop. Then you can push the panels against the wall and they will prevent the Acrylic panels from going in too far.

If you are going to make a jig and then rout out the holes for the sockets/switches, I would advise you to get a spiral Up-Cut bit, as the standard 2 blade TC tipped cutters can tend to produce too much heat and as it cools again, the offcut has re-welded itself back to the rest of the sheet.

 

[joiner1970]

Maybe I'll just drill the 4 corners and jigsaw the socket holes out. I take it the coloured packers don't show through in anyway. These splashbacks are white and are fully coloured through.

Do you think I'll get away with the fine 48 tooth blade on my ts55 or do you really need the special one ?

 

[joiner1970]

I ordered the special blade in the end, don't think the normal 48 tooth will do.

Also ordered a Fugi set for doing the silicone joints . Looking at the you tube videos they look great.

 

[jmbfestool]

Off topic slightly....
What are Wren kitchens like never used them.

Looked at their catalogue before.

Jusy wondering what they are like

Cheers

 

[joiner1970]

If you want my honest opinion Brett, they're absolute rubbish if this one I've just done is anything to go by.

Bad planning and poor quality units.

It's a shame I wasn't involved at an early stage as I could have supplied a much better kitchen for the same sort of money ie crown or omega

Even Howdens would be better