Adding MFT capabilities to non-MFT bench?

camhabib

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Mar 2, 2025
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Going to be building my first workbench. I love the functionality of the MFT as far as compatibility with my TS60, but it just isn’t sturdy or large enough for some of the things I’d like to do. Before I settled on a workbench design, I wanted to ask if anyone has successfully added MFT functions to an otherwise standard bench? I had been thinking something along the lines of drilling 20mm holes in the top using a 3D printed jig and attaching a compatible extruded aluminum rail along front and back edges to use sourced Festool / third party hardware for crosscuts with. No idea how feasible, expensive, or accurate this would wind up being though. Any feedback or tips would be immensely helpful.
 
We are many, who have made our own MFT-style table tops. If that top happens to be the top of a traditional workbench, you can of course also do that.

However, you should be aware that your clamping options will be affected by the thickness of the table top:
  • Bench dogs will work equally well in a thicker top.
  • A holdfast'ish clamp like the Festool MFT-HZ 80 will probably work even better in a thicker top.
  • A normal Festool rail clamp used upside-down, for example the FSZ 120 or its FS-HZ 160 ratchet cousin, will start giving problems around a thickness of 25 mm.
  • Attachment, which rely on bolting from the underside, can also give problems. Those are pretty rare anyway, so I would not be too concerned about that.
The problem with the rail clamps is because you can't insert them from above through a long hole and get them twisted around. For a slightly thicker top (perhaps up to 35-40 mm?) you can solve that by beveling the holes on the underside. But if you are thinking about a traditional woodworking workbench with a 75-100 mm thick top, that will not work.
 
You’ll get plenty advice but don’t forget to take advantage of the great search tab here. many have posted about their bench w/pics. Lots have gone the”hybrid” bench way…for a good solid bench yet being able to use dogs,(and where not to place them) and other offerings…to aline, clamp in the middle, and more. To use Festool like clamps you have to be aware of the thickness to get the clamp thru but the holes can be rounded over from the bottom to make it work Edit: as Allano stated) or a clamp that comes apart…again many examples in past posts
 
All my benches are set up for the 96mm array of 20mm dog holes including my main bench. That one is hybrid so I can used my beloved Gramercy hold-fasts which require .75" dog holes through much thicker material. So the "field" of the 20mm holes in the cherry area is about 22mm thick and the .75" holes are in purpleheart strips that are about 100mm thick. This was all done on my CNC, although the deeper holes for the holdfasts were competed manually with a spade drill bit.

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I have used a full 4' x 8' table of grid holes for more than 10 years, can highly recommend. However, I don't bother with the extrusion aspect of the system. I use bench dogs in the grid for squaring cuts and all of the other accessories that work with the holes. As Jim mentioned, thickness can matter, but really only with the rail clamps. I made that mistake on my first big table, using a piece of 1.125" thick MDF. I had to use a chamfer bit, on the bottom, to get them in. It did work though, I used it for years, until a fire took it out. The thicker top always felt more solid/stable.
Now, I have a much more normal 3/4" MDF.
 
We are many, who have made our own MFT-style table tops. If that top happens to be the top of a traditional workbench, you can of course also do that.

However, you should be aware that your clamping options will be affected by the thickness of the table top:
  • Bench dogs will work equally well in a thicker top.
  • A holdfast'ish clamp like the Festool MFT-HZ 80 will probably work even better in a thicker top.
  • A normal Festool rail clamp used upside-down, for example the FSZ 120 or its FS-HZ 160 ratchet cousin, will start giving problems around a thickness of 25 mm.
  • Attachment, which rely on bolting from the underside, can also give problems. Those are pretty rare anyway, so I would not be too concerned about that.
The problem with the rail clamps is because you can't insert them from above through a long hole and get them twisted around. For a slightly thicker top (perhaps up to 35-40 mm?) you can solve that by beveling the holes on the underside. But if you are thinking about a traditional woodworking workbench with a 75-100 mm thick top, that will not work.
So much this - I went to a grid/torsion box setup, just so my top could be 3/4 MDF with black formica covering - 20mm dog holes spaced 96mm in a horseshoe shape

The ability to use those speed clamps is next level stupid easy. You can use the cheapies from powertec as well (haven't tried the straight chinesium ones, but they are only marginally cheaper than the chinese powertec ones)

The torsion box won't interfere with you clamps as long as you put the material between the holes and you can twist them 90deg in a few spots, but in reality 88.98% of the time it is a non issues
 
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