Adjustable Shelf's or Fixed?

3PedalMINI

Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2012
Messages
492
Long story but the dealership sold my NV200 from out from underneath me "by mistake" this led me to take another look at the new Ford Transit Connect and i have chosen to go with that. Weather permitting ill be taking delivery on Friday.

I need to get started immediately on shelving and i cannot decide if i want to make my shelving adjustable or fixed. I know it makes the most sense to have adjustable but im wondering if it is worth the extra time and effort? If i choose adjustable shelving what shelf pins would you recommend? Sadly i dont have an LR32 system and cant justify it for just this project so ill have todo it the old fashioned way.

The only reason im entertaining fixed is because i dont see me changing sizes of my tools and systainers anytime soon.

Thoughts?
 
If you want adjustable holes and want an inexpensive pin jig, I'd highly recommend the Kreg shelf pin jig. It comes with a 1/4" bit & you can buy a 5mm for it as well. I have one and carry it in the field for "in cabinet" situations. If you're not changing systainer sizes anytime soon you can go fixed but depending on how you fix them, it could be a PITA to undo if you ever decide to. I used the 5mm "L" shaped pins with a hole in the bottom. The shelves are solidly attached to the cabinet so they're not just floating around.

Keep us posted!!!
 
If you're in a rush, you can get the MEG Products Econo-Bore.  It's a lot less spendy (and less versatile) than the LR 32, but quite a competent tool.  The guy that makes them is in Hamilton Square, NJ.  You'll need a 5 mm brad-point or spear point bit, and a plunge router with a 5/8" P-C type guide bushing.  I used one for years before buying the LR 32.  I have not used the Kreg jig, but it seems to be good for after-the-fact modifications.

 
3PedalMINI said:
Long story but the dealership sold my NV200 from out from underneath me "by mistake" this led me to take another look at the new Ford Transit Connect and i have chosen to go with that. Weather permitting ill be taking delivery on Friday.

I need to get started immediately on shelving and i cannot decide if i want to make my shelving adjustable or fixed. I know it makes the most sense to have adjustable but im wondering if it is worth the extra time and effort? If i choose adjustable shelving what shelf pins would you recommend? Sadly i dont have an LR32 system and cant justify it for just this project so ill have todo it the old fashioned way.

The only reason im entertaining fixed is because i dont see me changing sizes of my tools and systainers anytime soon.

Thoughts?

You have that right, if it's not buried under a foot of snow!

The new transit connect really is a sweet looking van [thumbs up]

As for fixed or movable shelves you know I went with fixed, glued and screwed all of them. I was more concerned with movement and noise in the racking, so every upright and shelf was also glued to the outside wall paneling. If I had to do it over again I might leave one or two rows of shelves movable for the best of both worlds.

On another note, if you want to borrow my LR32 kit I would certainly lend it to you for a few days. [wink]
 
I would go with adjustable shelves with the pins that Bob used.  I have this jig and used it for some shelving with the 1400, 3/8" bushing, and Festool 5mm bit.  Worked well although slower than LR32 system.  It is best used prior to assembly and is only about $50 at Woodcraft.

[attachimg=#]

Peter
 

Attachments

  • woopeck jig.jpg
    woopeck jig.jpg
    20.8 KB · Views: 2,104
Bikeboy80 said:
You have that right, if it's not buried under a foot of snow!

The new transit connect really is a sweet looking van [thumbs up]

As for fixed or movable shelves you know I went with fixed, glued and screwed all of them. I was more concerned with movement and noise in the racking, so every upright and shelf was also glued to the outside wall paneling. If I had to do it over again I might leave one or two rows of shelves movable for the best of both worlds.

On another note, if you want to borrow my LR32 kit I would certainly lend it to you for a few days. [wink]

That seems like a decent compromise.  The advantage I see with both fixed and adjustable is a more solid unit than an all adjustable one. 
 
I totally agree with Brice that fixed shelves add rigidity.  I also think that the overall design and shelf spans will come into play.  With a van, especially a smaller van you won't get the flex that I might get in a trailer, and your shelf spans will be shorter.  Also in the design of the storage shelves how the back of the shelves is constructed will really affect the rigidity.

I have seen and been jealous of all the great designs I have seen here in vans, but for instance the small lips on shelves would never work for my trailer based on the roads I have to drive.  Between the roads and the sway of the trailer I use 1 x 4 front lips and I still get things flying off of the shelves.  That really messes up storage efficiency when you have to allow that much room above a systainer so that you can lift it off of a shelf.

Peter
 
I have two of the LR32 sets (one for my house and one at my cottage) as well as a 1010 and 1000.  I also have two of the Kreg shelf pin jigs.

To be honest, for drilling shelf pin holes I vastly prefer the Kreg jig.  It's way faster to setup, almost as fast to actually drill the holes, extremely compact, and an order of magnitude cheaper.  And, as someone above mentioned, it's possible to use it after an install is in place.

The only thing that isn't so nice is you have some dust you need to clean up later, but it's not a big problem.
 
I'd do fixed shelving for your main stay equipment and

maybe a cab or two with adjustable shelves for

consumables and things you're not sure about. 
 
I think fixed in place with screws. That's what I did with mine. I like the extra strength to keep things together and you can always unscrew it and change something if needed.
 
Brendon, on my last truck I used the 5 mm L brackets with the holes. When you add screws the shelves are rigid and quiet. Having the ability to adjust the shelves for future tool or supply needs will give you flexibly especially in a small space. You can set the pins at different heights, so you can angle the shelves to help hold items from falling out such as caulk tubes. I also used pocket screws for semi permanent shelving that is easy to relocate. That being said I have been building drawers in place of shelves in my new truck. I like the quick access and the clean look. With this truck my goal was not to have to move things to get to other things, a goal that is sometimes easier said than done. Have fun!
Curt
 
This is all great advice. I like Curt's idea. You get the best of both worlds with screwing in L brackets. If you go with shelf pins, I've even seen guys make a quick jig by just drilling holes into a narrow strip and clamping it.
 
I use adjustable shelves since I have use of a line boring machine, but I lock the shelves into place using Kreg pocket holes. Having the pocket holes on top of shelf allows the screw to pull the shelf tight to the shelf pins. It is also very easy to reset the shelves when you change the layout of systainers.
David
 
David Werkheiser said:
I use adjustable shelves since I have use of a line boring machine, but I lock the shelves into place using Kreg pocket holes. Having the pocket holes on top of shelf allows the screw to pull the shelf tight to the shelf pins. It is also very easy to reset the shelves when you change the layout of systainers.
David

LOL  I ordered my Transit in Sept. in finally arrived 2 weeks ago and I have been itching to get at the shelf build, weather has been a little bit of a factor.  I totally thought I had a great NEW way of racking using 32mm holes and L pins with kreg pocket screws and was gonna blow everyone away.  Now I see the idea has been done.  Happy actually, because I wondered how well it would work.  Sounds like it works well for you?
 
Yeah I did that in my last truck. If you use the L pins with holes in them, you can screw the shelves to them and eliminate the pocket screws.
Cheers
Curt
 
Pocket holes worked out ok, but after a visit from Curt (with his amazing shop on wheels) he suggested the "L" type shelf rests with holes on bottom for screws which is a simpler solution. I  am undecided weather to go with shelves of pull out shelves.
David
 
Back
Top