Advice on a joiner or plainer

TheTrooper

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Mar 19, 2015
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Was thinking about purchasing a plainer like the portable Dewalt one. Any suggestions? I mainly want it to shave down stair nosing and maybe some glue up panels. Has to be 110v
 
This is not much help, but I just bought the DeWALT DW735X after much debate. I wanted a large stand alone planer but it just won't fit in my basement. After my research and all the favorable reviews, including here on the FOG, I decided to go ahead and buy the DW735X. I received it a few days ago and it seems to be well built. It will be awhile before I get to plugging it in.
 
That DeWalt is a nice planer.

I have a Jet stationary planer, but use my 13" Ridgid portable planer exclusively unless I have some really big boards to plane.  I don't know if the DeWalt has the feature or needs it, but my little Ridgid you can "lock" the head into position, which eliminates snipe.  If I had to get another planer tomorrow, I would buy another Ridgid. 

With any portable planer, make sure you have some good hearing protection!

Gary
 
Baremeg55 said:
That DeWalt is a nice planer.

I have a Jet stationary planer, but use my 13" Ridgid portable planer exclusively unless I have some really big boards to plane.  I don't know if the DeWalt has the feature or needs it, but my little Ridgid you can "lock" the head into position, which eliminates snipe.  If I had to get another planer tomorrow, I would buy another Ridgid. 

With any portable planer, make sure you have some good hearing protection!

Gary

The head of the DW735 does lock automatically according to the description. I may get the Byrd Shelix cutter head to reduce the noise and to produce a better finish.
 
+1 for the Dewalt.  I had one and really loved it.  I had the extension tables to help eliminate snipe.  I had to sell it while I was unemployed but bought another when I went back to work.  I like the dual speed feed rate and the 3 knives in the planer head.  It is very heavy though so I keep it stationary.  I would not want to be lugging that around all the time!
 
For thicknessing sanders are the only way to go. I absolutely hate nothing more than seeing tear out. Even though you just have to flip it the other direction and its tear out free. The only problem is if you do your edge joining and want to just clean your ridge in the planer what is the first rule of edge glueing? In my opinion it is alternating grain direction unless using quarter sawn. Well if you are using high formation wood like lace wood, tiger and Birdseye maple it is the worst. Also, if the material is to large I take it to my local hardwood shop and they can either run it thought their double sided 48" planer that will never give tear out, or their 48" belt sander. I have had them thickness 4/4 to 1/2" at 100 board feet for $30.

Careful with the Dewalt planer if you put boards with glue on them through it. Be sure to knock the glue down with your sander first. The glue will nick the blades and you will get weird ridges to run the lengths of your board from it. They sand out nice and easy but I have seen my friends get a good 1/16 nick in them.
 
I also have the DeWalt 735X.  As noted, hearing protection is mandatory.  I'd also point out that it will fill a Dust Deputy's bucket in a heartbeat.  It's not a bad idea to put a brick or three on the top of the Dust Deputy's bucket lid to keep it from blowing off and spreading the joy all over the shop. 
 
The helical head carbide planers are, in my opinion, far better than the knife planers. I get a better cut with less tearout, less noise, and the cutter blocks can be rotated 4 times for long life. If you hit something that nicks the cutters, rotating the damaged cutters eliminates the problem. The cutters don't need adjusting like the knives do.

Before I bought the big Powermatic planer, I had another brand. I ordered the Byrd helical head for it. I returned it after looking at the installation instructions. I'm pretty handy with tools and machinery, but the Byrd installation made me rethink what I wanted to do.

Others may whiz through the Byrd retrofit, but I didn't want to try it.

Also, the head lock-down does reduce snipe, but I have not seen it eliminate it on either my small or my big planer.
 
Birdhunter said:
... I'm pretty handy with tools and machinery, but the Byrd installation made me rethink what I wanted to do.

Others may whiz through the Byrd retrofit, but I didn't want to try it.
...

When a Birdhunter shys away from the Byrd, I take note.
 
I've used the Dewalt 735 for years as a hobby woodworker. I love it. As long I have my indeed and out feed tables set correctly, I have virtually no snipe at either end. I don't use figured woods much but have run into some oak and other hardwoods with grain direction issues. I found that, by taking very light passes, there is very little or no tear out. I would say that this likely would be less successful with heavily figured woods and, for those, the helical cutter head would be the answer. Others have said they don't get very long life from their Dewalt steel blades. So far, I have not found that to be a problem but I'm not using it for production work. I just look for opportunities to buy the Dewalt brand replacement knives on sale or when I have discounts at Woodcraft. I just can't justify the amount of effort and cost required to replace the cutter head with a helical head. (The helical heads are amazing, though, even the Jet head, which has less cutters than the Shelix. I have an 8" Jet jointer and that was the best money I ever spent.) Based on my experience with the Dewalt planer I was never sorry I bought it.
 
Definitely get a Byrd or similar helical head. The difference in noise is truly worth it. Then add on the ability to rotate or change the individual cutters.  You won't regret it.

We have the Byrd heads installed in our powermatic in our shop and our portable unit for in the field.
 
I am a straight knife fan.

4 knife head in my Buss planer with a grinder and jointing stone makes for a perfect cut. 

Sharp knives are not loud.

Personally, after being around a few "real" helical heads, the byrds seem crude and cheap.
 
Consider the Steel City planer.  I have planed jojoba/Brazilian cherry (it is VERY hard and brittle) with no problems.  It has a *helical* cutter head that does a very good job.
 
Consider the Steel City planer.  I have planed jojoba/Brazilian cherry (it is VERY hard and brittle) with no problems.  It has a *helical* cutter head that does a very good job.
 
I've been researching portable thicknessers ... the DW735 with a helical cutter conversion seems to be where I'll go. I'll also add a digital depth gauge.

I'll be using it outside at home and regardless of hearing protection, I'll want to annoy neighbours as little as possible. Hence the helical head (plus hoping for better cut quality).
 
josephgewing said:
Consider the Steel City planer.  I have planed jojoba/Brazilian cherry (it is VERY hard and brittle) with no problems.  It has a *helical* cutter head that does a very good job.

As of April, Steel City ceased operations.  There may be some stock floating around in stores but don't count on any warranty support.
 
I have the Dewalt 735X with the Byrd cutterhead and it works great.  Lower noise and no tearout when planing QSWO. 

The installation of the cutterhead isn't simple but at the same time is very doable.  That being said, tearing a brand new tool to pieces isn't something I normally do and I did find it a bit stressful.  The last thing you want to do is to break a brand new tool and violate the warranty at the same time.  However, the instructions are decently written and the youtube videos are very helpful. 

The process was definitely worth it.
 
Just be aware that the Rikon planer comes with HSS cutters while the Byrd head comes with carbide cutters. 
 
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