Advice on Affordable 3/8" Drive Torque Wrench

Rutabagared

Rutabagared

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Jan 27, 2008
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Now that I'm two wheeling again, I'm looking to purchase a decent 3/8" drive torque wrench for less than $100 in the 5-50 ft-lb range.  There are $30 dollar versions (calibrated/not calibrated) carried by the big online retailers, but I'm leary.  That said, I know several folks that have Tekton models and are quite pleased with them.  I'm open to digital as well as micrometer style.

I've also been looking at torque adapters, which seem more versatile if not a bit less convenenient.  Several YouTube videos show that they are quite accurate, even the Harbor Freight model.

All this is a bit of "fingernails-on-the-chalkboard" to me as one of my nerdy, day job duties is to oversee calibration of many electronic and mechanical tools (including torque wrenches and drivers) to ISO 17025 and ANSI/NCSL Z540-1 standards (told ya - nerdy).

Advice is much appreciated.  Thanks.
 
Under a $100, no idea. Someone will probably have a decent reference.
For a better budget maybe look at kctool.com. I haven't seen any of the Wera, Wiha, Hazet torque wrenches that cheap but do do have some decent discounts from time to time.
I've been watching them. The Wera seems like the best option. The Wiha is more expensive. The Hazet seems a bit clumsy.
 
62 years ago my dad bought me a go kart.  I went to Sears and bought a torque wrench.  Still have it.  It stll works.  So cost per year is around $0.050.  So cheap enough.

Of course mine is an old school mechanical version.  But if you need it, you can probably count on it lasting a while.  Good luck.
 
Would it get you in trouble if you tested/calibrated a personal tool at work?

If not, you can buy whatever you like most, test it, and know exactly what is going on with it/ calibrate it or just use it accordingly, knowing how far off different settings are.

Personally, I can't recommend anything in that price range as I use Snap-On/Norbar.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
six-point socket II said:
Would it get you in trouble if you tested/calibrated a personal tool at work?

If not, you can buy whatever you like most, test it, and know exactly what is going on with it/ calibrate it or just use it accordingly, knowing how far off different settings are.

Personally, I can't recommend anything in that price range as I use Snap-On/Norbar.

Kind regards,
Oliver
Click to expand...

Prooooobably not. The thought had crossed my mind [laughing].  Murphy's Law - I take it home and it's needed urgently in production, or I'd need to take PTO unexpectedly, I'd drop it or hog it up with grease/oil (we make printed circuit assemblies and their electronic enclosures).  The mechanisms of me mucking it up are endless.
 
sawdustinmyshoes said:
six-point socket II said:
Would it get you in trouble if you tested/calibrated a personal tool at work?

If not, you can buy whatever you like most, test it, and know exactly what is going on with it/ calibrate it or just use it accordingly, knowing how far off different settings are.

Personally, I can't recommend anything in that price range as I use Snap-On/Norbar.

Kind regards,
Oliver
Click to expand...

Prooooobably not. The thought had crossed my mind [laughing].  Murphy's Law - I take it home and it's needed urgently in production, or I'd need to take PTO unexpectedly, I'd drop it or hog it up with grease/oil (we make printed circuit assemblies and their electronic enclosures).  The mechanisms of me mucking it up are endless.
Click to expand...

I think Oliver's suggestion was to take a personal tool to work and test/calibrate it, rather than borrowing a calibrated tool from work.  I understand his point; are there liability or "stolen value" issues with calibrating personal devices on company equipment?
 
I think Packard's referring to the old beam style torque wrench, that'd probably be the cheapest of the bunch but I don't know if anyone still makes them. I remember purchasing an Indestro one about 60 years ago, even then it was around $20. Indestro also manufactured tools for Sears & Montgomery Wards.

The current torque wrenches I own are a Snap-On clicker a Snap-On dial, a SK Wayne clicker, a Tonichi dial and a Wera clicker. I like the clicker style best because you don't have to see and be able to read the dial to get an accurate torque measurement. I believe all are now capable of 2% accuracy, where that was not the case when the clicker style first came to market.

For an accurate torque wrench for under $100 I don't have a clue. I like Oliver's suggestion, that way you can get the accuracy you
need for the price you want to pay. If the wrench doesn't measure up...just return it.

Just checked, that $20 Indestro wrench purchased in 1964 would now cost $202.  [tongue]
 
rvieceli said:
Zoro routinely sends out 20% off coupons so that would bring it down to $138. CDI is the OEM for Snap-On torque wrenches.
Click to expand...

If sawdustinmyshoes...signs up for emails, he'll receive a 15% off coupon immediately.  [cool]
 
Thanks, all.  A lot to think about.  To add to that, does anyone have experience with digital models?
 
My 1/2" one is digital. Reason being that it allows for very easy tightening with torque & angle combined in one cycle when necessary. Also it can display peak torque, which is another useful feature to me. Also it will only count correct tightening cycles.

Also, I do like to see the torque value climb in addition to the response/feedback I get from the joint while applying force when tightening rather critical stuff.

If used to click-type torque wrenches, it takes a bit to get used to the overall response/feedback of the digital ones. And if you don't need the additional features, you'll be quicker and probably overall better off with the click-type.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
smorgasbord said:
Project Farm probably has a comparison YouTube video
Click to expand...

Thanks,  I'll check it out.

I'm considering this one from eTORK.  I like the scale and several YouTube videos verified its accuracy.
 
I had a Craftsman dial type torque wrench and the big issue was having to wind the setting scale back to zero after using it to avoid it becoming inaccurate and if using a high torque setting that became a PIA.
 
For anything that relies on the constant energy force that a spring provides to allow any mechanism to properly function...the spring will inevitably suffer from metal fatigue and can be rendered useless and will eventually need to be replaced.  [smile] 

Automotive suspensions, intake/exhaust valve springs in a car, mechanical watch movements...all of these internal springs suffer from metal fatigue. Thus, the same situation exists with torque wrenches that rely on an internal spring that's needed to render the torque wrench measurements. The best practice is to fully relieve tension on the spring between uses. It's only a 30 second process and will prolong the accuracy of the torque wrench.

The most maintenance free torque wrench was the old beam style, you could literally store it in a box for 50-100 years and it would be as accurate as the day it was purchased...providing that the accuracy was at the required level.  [smile]
 
I have a 1/4” Teton which I like, seems accurate but I’ve never checked the accuracy. Amazon sells the 3/8” tekton for under $50.

3/8 Inch Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench (10-80 ft.-lb.) | 24330

Unless you’re a mechanic or constantly using a torque wrench I would go with an el cheapo. The digital Snap-On torque wrenches are very nice, I’ve used one before, but they are pricey. Get yourself a basic Torque wrench for starters, that should suffice, unless you’re doing serious maintenance or rebuilding an engine. Torqueing down bolts after the break in period a basic torque wrench will get the job done.
 
I bought a 1/4"drive 20-200 inch-pound range Texton a few years back when I switched my jointer and planer over to Byrd heads, it was about $50.  It seems to be very well constructed and provides consistent results.  It has the threaded collar at the base of the shaft that you set the torque value to and when you reach the desired torque the internal mechanism gives a "click" that is both heard and felt by the operator.
 
Cheese said:
Automotive suspensions, intake/exhaust valve springs in a car, mechanical watch movements...all of these internal springs suffer from metal fatigue. Thus, the same situation exists with torque wrenches that rely on an internal spring that's needed to render the torque wrench measurements. The best practice is to fully relieve tension on the spring between uses. It's only a 30 second process and will prolong the accuracy of the torque wrench.

The most maintenance free torque wrench was the old beam style, you could literally store it in a box for 50-100 years and it would be as accurate as the day it was purchased...providing that the accuracy was at the required level.  [smile]
Click to expand...

That's all true. There is a design called the "Split beam" which still enables a "click" or release when reaching the torque setting, but you don't have to unwind the setting, and making the setting is really easy. The only downside, other than cost, is that it's one direction only - you can't tighten something that is lefty-tighty. And you might think you'd never have that, but I have a couple of EBike motors that have a big nut where the cranks attach that is that way. SK makes some good split beam wrenches.

 
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