advice on rail guides

[Slappy]

OK with the TS55REQ about to be re-released & which I'm buying one ASAP
I need advice on which long rail guide I should get
'should I get the

Festool 491501 FS 3000 118" Guide Rail

OR 

Festool 491937 FS 2700 106" Guide Rail

I will be breaking down 4 x 8 sheet stock & will need to run some cuts at a angle down the 8 foot lengths
I can't afford both 
& I do not want to use joined shorter rail guides ( i just want to grab & go , then cut  )

 

[Paul G]

A 4x8 sheet corner to corner is about 108" so I went with the 118" guide to have no limits. Still it wasn't long until I needed to join it with a shorter rail to cut 10' ply, couldn't justify the 5000 (197") rail...but someday lol

 

[Slappy]

A 4x8 sheet corner to corner is about 108" so I went with the 118" guide to have no limits. Still it wasn't long until I needed to join it with a shorter rail to cut 10' ply, couldn't justify the 5000 (197") rail...but someday lol

so that added over hang of the 118" is not a hassle    ?  ?
Yeah , I don't mind adding the stock 55" to the longer rails as it will be rare that I would use the 10' sheets .

 

[ccarrolladams]

Using a TS55REQ or TS55EQ it is entirely possible to make 8' cuts on the 2700mm guide rail. However, if that cut is more than slightly at an angle, you will need a longer rail, namely the 3000mm.

Early on before I built my large shop, my first long rail was the 2700mm. The reason was that in one of my home work rooms that was the longest rail which would fit. Within a couple of weeks I did also buy the 3000mm rail, which I used in a different and larger work room.

Based on my experience and after discussing this issue with a whole lot of Festool owners, I always suggest buying the longer rail, unless there is some compelling reason to go with the shorter one. I earn a living with my Festools so I can afford and justify owning both rails, but most people need to budget more carefully.

In my large shop my basic sheet material is 4x10' prefinished maple plywood. I do also own a 5000mm rail. To store it I constructed a 4'x18' cutting table, with shelves under the surface running the long way. That is enough to hold the 5000mm rail. A 3000mm rail is stored on the other side, which has a lower shelf holding one each 1900mm and 1400mm rails. We use that cutting table for plywood parts with corners not at right angles, so I generally need the long rails.

Fortunately in cabinet making most parts have only right angles. Those parts I cut on my 12' pressure beam CNC saw. It is very accurate and efficient, but only making right angles.

 

[Paul G]

A 4x8 sheet corner to corner is about 108" so I went with the 118" guide to have no limits. Still it wasn't long until I needed to join it with a shorter rail to cut 10' ply, couldn't justify the 5000 (197") rail...but someday lol

so that added over hang of the 118" is not a hassle    ?   ?
Yeah , I don't mind adding the stock 55" to the longer rails as it will be rare that I would use the 10' sheets .

When cutting the 8' length it isn't that much overhang, less than a foot each end. (118-96)/2 =11" each end. It's not a hassle for me, YMMV.

 

[Slappy]

I thought it best to ask , than not ask &  regret it later  [embarassed]

ThanX

 

[TomGadwa1]

I bought the 3000 and have no regrets. It is nice to have the extra length as it gives room to have the saw fully plunged before beginning the cut which is the safer way to work. Also and the other end there is less chance of running out of room to gracefully finish the cut as well. I store mine up in the ceiling using a bicycle hoist and the box the rail came in as it is pretty long and my ceilings top out at eight feet!

 

[NERemodeling]

i think you already got a pretty solid answer but i figured id chime in as well,  I too did alot of thinking between the 2700 and 3000.. ultimately i decided to go 3000 (just ordered it friday).. i didnt think the extra foot of rail would ever be an annoyance and i liked the fact that it would allow me to do angeled rips, not have to be so particular about rail placement (plenty of room for start and stop) and also expand to the ts75 one day without need for a new rail

John

 

[peter halle]

All I will add is that if you need to transport your rails regularly the 3000 offers more difficulties than the 2700.  In my 8' truck bed a 2700 will fit diagonally.  A 3000 won't.  All things being equal I would go for the 3000 every time.

Peter

 

[NERemodeling]

Peter, good point..    i have a trailer so this is a non issue for me but when you or others lay the 2700 in the truck bed im assuming you lay it on the bottom, do you then put other tools on top of it?  that would scare me.

what about building a quick case out of 1x material or similar for transport, that way the rail would be best protected and be able to be transported proped up on the tailgate or even on a ladder rack.

John

 

[semenza]

If transport and storage  is not a problem , get the 3000.

Seth

 

[bwiele]

One other factor to consider is whether or not you need the rail for the LR 32 system.  I needed it, so I bought the longest holey rail they made, which I believe is the 2424 rail.  Unless I need a superlong rail, I'll always buy holey rails going forward...

 

[sancho57]

I bought the 3000 because I use it with the parallel guides. They fit on the 3000 better.