Hello, I just bought a Fuji mini mite 4 with gxpc gun. I need to spray an interior door. I also am building a Murphy bed and office desk cabinets. I would like to use the same product on everything. The color will be white. I would really like to use a product that will work well with the factory tip in the gxpc (but not a complete deal breaker if not possible). I was reading really good things about PPG Break Through. Would that be a product that would work well for me and my setup? I read that I wouldn't need to prime if using the PPG? Can anyone confirm that? What about thinning? Thank you for any help you can offer.
Advice with which finish to use
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JCLP
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I spray PPG Breakthrough with my Q5, 1.8mm needle and cap and 10% thinning with distilled water. Do not exceed 10%, as it will affect the finish. I know this from much experimenting.Omoplata said:
With your Q4, I don't believe it will work for you. I have never tried it so I'm not 100% sure on that statement.
I have tested smaller needles and thinning up to 25% and the paint does not like it at all. 1.8mm and 10% thinning is the best, from my experience. This is what I'm using for the kitchen I'm working on.
Cheers,
JC
Omoplata said:
JCLP said:
Hi JC, thanks for the reply. I'm also thinking of picking up a Apollo 7500 spray gun. Do you think the 1.8 tip would be the same for that gun? Have you used the SW Kem Aqua plus? Wondering how it compares to the break through?
[member=9142]Omoplata[/member] I haven't tried the Apollo gun myself, but everything I've read says that the Fuji guns are just as good, if not better.
As for paint, I'm having very good luck with the Duralaq products. I have their white primer and semi-gloss finish which I'm spraying with a Fuji MM5 and Fuji T75G gun.
I have learned that any flaws in the finish are due to the loose nut holding the gun, not the products involved.
As for paint, I'm having very good luck with the Duralaq products. I have their white primer and semi-gloss finish which I'm spraying with a Fuji MM5 and Fuji T75G gun.
I have learned that any flaws in the finish are due to the loose nut holding the gun, not the products involved.
JCLP
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Paul,PaulH99 said:[member=9142]Omoplata[/member] I haven't tried the Apollo gun myself, but everything I've read says that the Fuji guns are just as good, if not better.
As for paint, I'm having very good luck with the Duralaq products. I have their white primer and semi-gloss finish which I'm spraying with a Fuji MM5 and Fuji T75G gun.
I have learned that any flaws in the finish are due to the loose nut holding the gun, not the products involved.
What needle and cap are you using for each product. I use the Duralaq Undercoater as my primer but have never sprayed their top coat.
Thx.
JC
tiralie
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Omoplata said:
You should be able to spray the Kem Aqua out of the can with the Q4. if you get old stock etc. it may be thicker and more difficult to spray. While I have not sprayed PPG Breakthrough, I have found Kem Aqua to be very tough and able to with stand a fair amount of abuse. Breakthrough has a polyurethane base so is technically tougher than the Kem Aqua which is has an acrylic latex base.
I have sprayed kitchens and furniture with Kem Aqua. It holds up well if you prepare the surfaces correctly and apply it within the allowable tolerances.
tjbnwi
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Pictured are all finished with Kem Aqua+. It was sprayed through a 395 AAA. By the time I’m done this one home will take 60 gallons to finish the casework.
I owe whoever a while back mentioned that the finish store in Denver is a pain to deal with an apology, for me telling them it can’t be that bad. After 20 years of using SW products, this one store may make me switch brands. I was given a gallon of Breakthrough to try by the local PPG dealer, if I’m happy with it, it will most likely be my go to due to service.
Tom
I owe whoever a while back mentioned that the finish store in Denver is a pain to deal with an apology, for me telling them it can’t be that bad. After 20 years of using SW products, this one store may make me switch brands. I was given a gallon of Breakthrough to try by the local PPG dealer, if I’m happy with it, it will most likely be my go to due to service.
Tom
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[member=9142]Omoplata[/member] I'm sorry I didn't see this sooner and kept you waiting for a reply.
I'm using 1.8 for the primer and 1.3 for the topcoat. No thinning or extending necessary. Stir well, pour it from the can through a filter, and into your gun.
I'm using 1.8 for the primer and 1.3 for the topcoat. No thinning or extending necessary. Stir well, pour it from the can through a filter, and into your gun.
Omoplata said:
Thanks Paul. So I take it the primer is thicker then the top coat? I'm having trouble finding a BM dealer that carries the Duralaq. I do have a PPG dealer that carries the breakthrough. Though I feel like they weren't doing me ANY favors with the price! Like $68 a gallon. I'm sure because I'm not a painting contractor they were sticking it to me.
On a side note do any of these mentioned products have a pot or shelf life?
On a side note do any of these mentioned products have a pot or shelf life?
tjbnwi
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leakyroof said:
They know better than to tell me “you can’t do it that way”. The Denver store manager has talked to my rep from the Crown Point store.
They take at least a week to prepare a gallon, let alone the number of gallons I need. They told me they can’t custom match, if they don’t have the color on file, I’m SOL. Every color from here forward will be a custom mix. After me doing some explain how on color interacts with other color they got the tones and shades right for what I need now.
They told me they can’t match Minwax stain colors in BAC. I had to explain to them how to get out of the Color Cast colorant pallet, get to the BAC colorant pallet, scroll down to the Minwax colors on their computer system.
They’re also charging me about $12.00 more per gallon than they should be for the Surfacer and KA+, and about $22.00 more per gallon for the 65P than I’m paying here.
My biggest frustration is the delays in getting the product to me. I’m not used to the Colorado pace.
Tom
Yes, the primer is much thicker. When I bought the DuraLaq, the person behind the counter recommended those needle sizes. I will say that the undercoat went on a lot heavier than I expected. It looks almost "splattered" or "spattered" when I went to sand it. I'm seriously thinking for my next spray job of going down to a 1.5, or as [member=24938]JCLP[/member] mentioned, the 1.3 just to see what happens.
I went on the DuraLaq web site and found a list of dealers local to me, then called every one of them until I found one who stocks it. When I went to that store, they said that they carry it all the time because so many cabinetmakers use the product. I think I paid less than $40/gallon for both the undercoat and topcoat.
I went on the DuraLaq web site and found a list of dealers local to me, then called every one of them until I found one who stocks it. When I went to that store, they said that they carry it all the time because so many cabinetmakers use the product. I think I paid less than $40/gallon for both the undercoat and topcoat.
Omoplata said:
Check out their Waterborne page:http://www.lenmar-coatings.com/category-listing/pro/waterbornefinishsystems
I'm using the 1WB.20X series of products. The "X" denotes the sheen of the finish where 0 = undercoat.
I'm using the 1WB.20X series of products. The "X" denotes the sheen of the finish where 0 = undercoat.
Omoplata said: