Air compressor won't start?

festivus

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Joined
Dec 16, 2009
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177
I have a 3HP SIP air compressor which I moved to outside my workshop about 1 year ago - in its own enclosure. So it is a bit damp in there - but has been working fine.

The thing just won't start as of today. Checked all the obvious things: fuse, tried emptying pressure, reset switch, oil level ok etc.

Nothing comes on at all.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.
 
I had a similar event on a water pump. Eventually tracked it down to an insect that had crawled between the electrical contacts in the pressure switch at the instant that they closed, trapping its little body keeping the contacts apart. Make sure you have unplugged the electrics when you open the switch housing.
 
Not sure if you fave cold weather there or not.  My portable compressors that use oil dont work when its really cold.  I normally need to heat them up before they will run. 
 
Thanks.

Has been cold but not now ...

Unlikely to be insect but you never know!

And other ideas?
 
Just another thought. Is it a single phase induction motor. These have a starting capacitor that will often expire and then the motor will not start unless it is spun with the power on.
 
My vote is for the insect between the contact point.
I had those kind of problems with irrigation/ frost control pumps and wells.
Good luck
Rick
 
SIP suggest capacitor too so am trying to track one down. Although doesn't look burnt out in any way so not hugely hopeful ...

Thanks.
 
Not sure how you went about troubleshooting, so apologies if you've done this. You didn't say that the motor buzzed or hummed, just that it was 'dead' so I'm thinking an electrical problem:

Before I go any further, did you look for a circuit breaker on the motor itself? It will typically look like a little plastic button around 1/4" to 3/8" in diameter. IF you find it, press it in. If it goes 'click' you may have found your problem.

All of the following assumes that you can be safe around electricity. If you aren't/can't, either find a friend who can or hire someone to fix it - we don't want to lose you from the forum due to one mistake with 240 volts!

So let's start troubleshooting...

1. Check for voltage at the point where the wires attach to the compressor - usually either at the on-off switch or the pressure switch. Do you have power there?

If no, track your circuit back to the panel, and don't forget to check the breaker itself - they DO go bad!

If yes, then:

2A. If power comes into the pressure switch, check to see if you have power on the other (output) side of the switch.

If no, your pressure switch is not working. It may be something as simple as the insect mentioned above, but it may also have failed in another manner. If it's bad and you can't fix it, you'll need to replace it.

If yes, then track your circuit on to the next junction point, which will probably be the on-off switch

2B. If power comes into the on-off switch, check to see if you have power on the other (output) side of the switch. I know that this is obvious, but make sure you've turned the switch to the ON position before testing?

If no, your power switch is not working. It may also be something as simple as the insect mentioned above, but it may also have failed in another manner. If it's bad and you can't fix it, you'll need to replace it.

If yes, then  track your circuit on to the next junction point, which will probably be the pressure switch.

3. Once you've followed power thru both the on-off and pressure switches, the next likely connection point will be at the motor. Usually there will be a junction box with a removable cover mounted directly on the motor. Remove the cover and examine the interior of the junction box. Since your compressor has been outdoors, it's entirely possible that you've had rodents or other n'er-do-wells make a nest inside of the box. It wouldn't surprise me if you found a carcase or two in there. WITH THE POWER OFF remove said carcase and anything else that doesn't belong in there. Examine the wires for missing insulation or other damage. Repair or replace as necessary.

4. Turn power back on, and with the power switch ON and the pressure switch tested, CAREFULLY verify power into the junction box on the motor. You might have to temporarily expose one or both of the power leads that connect to the motor wiring, so use care. IF you have power to the motor, TURN THE POWER OFF at the breaker and reconnect the wires to the motor.

5. Test it once more:

If it starts up, you're good!

If you hear nothing, your motor is bad and needs repair or replacement.

If you hear humming or buzzing, then:

Note: from here on I assume that your compressor is belt drive. If it's not you can disregard this part.

6. WITH POWER OFF, try to turn the pulley on the compressor pump by hand. It will be difficult, but you should be able to move it.

If you can turn it, you have a motor problem. You are finished troubleshooting.

If you can't turn it, then:

7. Remove the belt that connects the motor to the compressor. Try to turn the compressor pulley again.

If you still can't turn it, the compressor pump is likely seized and will need to be repaired or replaced. You are finished troubleshooting.

If you can turn it, then:

8. Make sure everything is clear of the motor pulley and turn the power back on. Turn the power (on/off) switch on.

If the motor runs, you've verified that the compressor pump is excessively difficult to turn, is likely 'binding' somehow, and will need to be repaired or replaced. You are finished troubleshooting.

If the motor doesn't run, you've verified that the motor will need to be repaired or replaced. You are finished troubleshooting.

Obviously I can't cover every possible problem you might find, but this will help you track down the most likely issues fairly quickly.

Good luck!
 
Wow - that is hugely helpful - thank you.

It is the pressure switch. Took the plastic lid off, poked the switch and it came back up and turned compressor on :).

Thought all sorted, but when it reaches pressure it turns off and doesn't release again - grrr!!

I thought just got stuck, but not.

I have located part: http://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-02314-mignon-1-way-pressure-switch-1ph.html

But looking at the switch - it looks in good condition. Is there any way to fix it do you reckon - or should I give up and order replacement?

Thanks again.
 
festivus said:
Wow - that is hugely helpful - thank you.

It is the pressure switch. Took the plastic lid off, poked the switch and it came back up and turned compressor on :).

Thought all sorted, but when it reaches pressure it turns off and doesn't release again - grrr!!

I thought just got stuck, but not.

I have located part: http://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-02314-mignon-1-way-pressure-switch-1ph.html

But looking at the switch - it looks in good condition. Is there any way to fix it do you reckon - or should I give up and order replacement?

Thanks again.

You could try a couple of things:

If the mechanism that activates the switch due to low pressure is visible, you could try lightly oiling or greasing it in case it's become corroded and that's why it's not moving? Use something like Kroil or lithium grease, NOT WD-40 - or whatever the UK equivalents of those are.

You could also try burnishing (polishing) the contacts in case they've become pitted or corroded over time.

But with the relatively low price of the pressure switch, I wouldn't waste much time trying to save $50/£33 since even if you get it working NOW it will probably fail again soon enough anyway...
 
With electric apparratus that is kept out doors, even with a cover, if it was not meant to be kept outside, contacts sometimes get condensation.  A light touch with sandpaper sometimes gets me back up and running. A tiny shot of WD 40 sometimes (Probably an electrician would shoot me for trying that).  Not enough to run onto anything beyond the contacts, and wipe down immediately.  If I can't get it to work after what wow suggested, and cleaning up all contact points, i go to the phone method or supply (toy) store
Tinker

OOPS!!!  wow just slapped my hands as I was typing.  I do carry a small tube of lithium grease with me to lube my trailer hitch plug-in.  Had not  thought of that for electric problems talked about here.
 
Tinker makes a good point that I didn't clarify.

Whatever liquid or lubricant you use, apply it to a Q-tip (cotton applicator if Q-tip isn't a brand over there) first and then wipe it on the area you want it to work on.

DO NOT SPRAY ANYTHING into the switch, with the possible exception of a contact cleaner that is designed to be sprayed. Even then I'd be cautious because contact cleaners will remove lubricants, so while they address one problem they can cause another.
 
Chaps - can't say how much I appreciate your help!

This is the switch - all looks clean - not exactly sure what needs doing?

I've ordered a switch but will still try and sort this one.
 

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That picture helps a lot. You can forget about contact cleaner or lubricant. That switch is sealed and not repairable.

That is what is commonly known as a 'microswitch'. I buy them in the states from www.digikey.com, but they should be readily available over there as well. However, it might not be worth your trouble to try and identify the correct switch, with the correct plunger, and correct terminals, and correct current rating, and... you get the idea.

In this case the tool I'd reach for is the credit card!
 
Ok wow - that saves me some time!!!

The part I've ordered is the whole assembly - in the mean time I can pull up the switch manually with pliers when it cuts out - so am not without.

Thanks again.
 
You are welcome.

In my mis-spent youth I tried repairing those switches. I never succeeded (for long) but I did learn a lot.

There is a tiny spring inside that switch that has either broken or corroded away, possibly from condensation as tinker said. It's a casualty of putting an indoor piece of equipment outdoors.

BTW, the same thing happens if you have it in an unheated shop - eventually. Condensation occurs when the equipment passes through the dew point. Ironically, either using it all the time or leaving it sitting unused isn't a problem, but the more irregular and occasional your use, the worse it is!
 
It's always useful experience!

I think this switch didn't behave even before I moved it into its own annex :(. Even my workshop can reach sub-zero temps! I often had to turn on off to start-up - just didn't realise it was this pressure switch causing the issue.

 
New switch arrived - cracked when installing!! Anyone Weld UK sent out another free of charge - very impressive service.

Just fitted and working fine except ...

I had to remove other parts including the pressure gauges. Now one pressure gauge is leeking air - it's not the gauge itself since I've tried swapping the two over. It's the receptor for the gauge. I've tried loads of PTFE tape to no avail.

What else can I use to seal?

Many thanks :)
 
festivus said:
New switch arrived - cracked when installing!! Anyone Weld UK sent out another free of charge - very impressive service.

Just fitted and working fine except ...

I had to remove other parts including the pressure gauges. Now one pressure gauge is leeking air - it's not the gauge itself since I've tried swapping the two over. It's the receptor for the gauge. I've tried loads of PTFE tape to no avail.

What else can I use to seal?

Many thanks :)

Again, pictures would help a lot...
 
Thanks - here you go - 1 is new pressure switch. Also see diagram from compressor. (pressure gauge 70 leaking)

May help?
 

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