Alternatives to parallel guides

[Tim Brennan]

So I am trying to cut strips of MDF with my TS55 REQ and have run into a snag that I have met dozens of times before. I am trying to get an accurate cut but setting up the track each time is time consuming and the track or workpiece sometimes slip because it is not supported adequately/needs extra clamps which slows things down even more.

I don't have the parallel guides and right now can't justify the cost of them (£139).

I just saw the Parallel side fence - PA-TS 55 which is only £33.

Are there any other ways to create a way to repeatedly make accurate cuts using pieces of timber or are there any other tips on this task? How does the side fence compare to the parallel guides?

 

[Gwerner]

When I built my Sysports I made the jigs below to help setup the track when drilling the holes in all the side panels for the drawer slides. Kinda crude, but it worked pretty well.

 

[Tim Brennan]

When I built my Sysports I made the jigs below to help setup the track when drilling the holes in all the side panels for the drawer slides. Kinda crude, but it worked pretty well.

Interesting. So you drilled the holes with the router on the track?

 

[Tim Brennan]

I had a moment of inspiration. Just add the width of the cut to the mark and then the track can be placed on the other side for better support.

 

[Gwerner]

When I built my Sysports I made the jigs below to help setup the track when drilling the holes in all the side panels for the drawer slides. Kinda crude, but it worked pretty well.

Interesting. So you drilled the holes with the router on the track?

I used them to position my holey rail the correct distance from the edge and clamped the rail down. Then just removed the jigs to do my drilling.

 

[fshanno]

I would offer one suggestion as an interim, though it's not repeatable.  You may know about it already, it's the razor blade method.  It's cheap and easy.  You use two razor blades as stops.

Stretch out your tape and instead of making a mark just stick in a razor blade.  With razor blades on each end you can use them as stops and bump the guide right up to them. 

Again, it's not exactly repeatable.  But it's the fastest non-repeatable method I know of. 

This method does almost nothing to alleviate the need for clamps.  It does make it easy to see that you are still on target before engaging a clamp

I have a set of parallel guides but I don't always use them.  When I don't use my parallel guides or my MFT I use razor blade stops.  And that is every single time.  Without exception. 

 

[peter halle]

Many different ways depending on the size.  I admit that I am not a big fan of the parallel guide that you mentioned for indexing cuts.  I find that it does not extend far enough forward of the saw base to get the registration I want.  I do like it though for use as an outrigger for when you are doing beveled cuts on the rail.

Using your method shown - if the width of cut is 12 inches of less you can use an adjustable square.  For 7" or less I have used an incra gauge.  Some people might use the parts from the LR-32 system that spaces the track off the edge.  Of course you could also use a few scraps of wood and build something quick in the shape of a tee.

Peter

 

[JimD]

I made some jigs that index off the portion of the track that the saw rides on and have a stop on the other end you slide to where you want the edge of the board to be.  They have hairline pointers over a stick on tape measure.  So you move the stop to the width you want, then put the other end over the track rail and use the jig to correctly position the track.  I like the fact I can then clamp the track.  Sheet goods are flat enough the track usually stays put but my glueups of solid don't seem to be.  Clamps solves that.  My biggest expense was for the stick on tape measure.  I've only used them once so far but I think they work fine.  I hope to use them again tomorrow.  I have one set up to go on the side of the workpiece the track covers and another set to go on the side where the track isn't. 

 

[Bitbob]

Personally I think the PG is worth the outlay with the mods to stop them sagging etc, But a cheaper solution which would be repeatable  would be two steel rule's with rule stops on them. The steel rules I have both have holes in them for hanging so if a piece of metal that slides into the track saw rail is taped so the rules can be fixed to them, then add the rule stops and hey presto repeatability

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-MT68-Steel-Rule-600/dp/B000LFYKKK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1442142026&sr=8-4&keywords=steel+rule

http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-ruler-stop

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-rule-stop

 

[Bitbob]

I quick search shows I'm not the only person to think of this

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/do-it-yourself-parralel-guides/