An 8020 Work Bench

[Qwas]

That's the way to do it. Just keep watching and keep watching. Some of the 8020-Garage-Sale are listed as a sale but most are not. They are extras (or maybe mistakes) that have been cut to size and/or drilled and tapped. Some of these are not listed as a sale but if you know their prices, you realize there are big savings in these pieces. Don't forget to monitor the "Last Chance" category also.

 

[Scott Rollins]

How did you attach the guide rail?  Does it flip up like the original?

 

[Qwas]

Good question Scott. I skimmed over it but I used my Rail Dogs on the guide rail all the time (yes, I probably use my own products more than anybody). The only problem is it limits reduces the max cutting width on any table to where the holes are. So I decided to "extend" the holes off the table.

[attachimg=1]

Through using it I discovered a slot work better than a hole. With a slot I can raise and lower the guide rail as one normally does, or slightly raise the rail and then move it to the right out of the way.

[attachimg=2]

I've been using the "Hole Extensions" for over a year now. I like it so much that I've removed the normal guide rail brackets and depend entirely on these.  They are also great when needing to make angle cuts. Loosen one side and the Rail Dog, slide to the correct angle, lock it down, tighten Rail Dog, and I'm ready to cut.  [smile]

 

[Scott Rollins]

Brilliant!  I don't have a MFT/3 but was on the fence with thew current 10% TS discounts.  The main hang up for me besides price was having to raise and lower the stops for the guide rail for different thicknesses of wood.  You have an easy solution, and I have about 20+ sticks of 8020 ranging from 3x3 (3030) and 1530 (1.5X3") sizes.

 

[Qwas]

Just to be clear, the "Hole Extensions" will work with the older MFT, MFT/3, or 8020 profiles.

I have a thread discussing them here on the talkFestool forum. I have done some upgrading since starting that thread but you can ask any questions you have on either forum and I will try to get you the answers.

 

[CList]

(yes, I probably use my own products more than anybody)

I would hope so!
I think the thing about builder-type people is that we can be very picky about our workflows, I'm still new at this Festool stuff so still figuring my workflow out. I've run into a few situations already where some 20mm dogs would be useful so expect an order from me soon!

As for a hinged guide rail (I'll probably do a full write up on my bench in another thread so as to keep this on topic, but since this came up)...
I did a system similar to the MFT's since I have a (removable) fence on one of the long edges, I wanted a way to do a perfectly square  hinge system. I cobbled mine together from a 4" door hinge I had sitting around along with some aluminum stock from McMaster - 4" x 1/4" x 12" plate, 1" x 1/4" angle bracket, etc. Some machine screws and some MDF.  The t-track used for the vertical adjustment is very cheap stuff - also from McMaster. The hinge side is all done and connects to the rails using the rail connectors I got with the Rail Accessory Kit. Simply loosen two screws and it comes off. The other side - the side with the pin that sets in the rail track - I may rework soon to make the up-and-down part all out of aluminum (since I have some more of that 1/4" aluminum plate), but what I've got right now, while not the prettiest thing, works perfectly. Once it's set to square I can raise and lower the guide rail all day and not have to worry about it being square or not.

The black knobs release the sled from the rail-guide and allow horizontal adjustment. The stainless steel thumb-nuts are screwed to 1/4" bolts that go in the t-tracks and release the vertical adjustment. I haven't put a stop-block on the rail with the hinge-sled yet, but I did put one on the other side - you can see it as the block piece of plastic on the left side of the sled. It's obvious from all the extra holes that I made a lot of refinements as I went along! LOL!

Sorry for the blurry pics, these are from my phone...

Cheers,
CList

 

[Qwas]

I will be interested in seeing your article about the bench. That's a good answer for a hinged a guide rail, nicely done.  [smile]

 

[otis04]

Just saw this from a couple of years ago, will the Festool clamps fit in the slots.  If so, which size?

 

[rmwarren]

The clamps fit into the slots on the 8020 15, 40 and 45 series extrusions. 15 and 40 are 8mm +/- wide and 45 is 10mm +/-.

RMW

 

[Wooden Skye]

RMW

I have a few questions about 8020, I have never used but am really interested.  I am looking at the 15 series to make a fence for my miter saw station.  My plan was to buy the 1.5" x 3" extrusion, I need to be able to remove the fence so I have room to work.  My plan is to use the 8020, some type of angle bracket connected to the 8020 and then attach to the T Track on the top of my bench.  First do you think this is will create a solid fence?  What bolts are typically used with 8020?  I am planning to use Incra t track or miter track, and if I am correct, that uses 1/4-20.

Thanks

 

[rmwarren]

RMW

I have a few questions about 8020, I have never used but am really interested.  I am looking at the 15 series to make a fence for my miter saw station.  My plan was to buy the 1.5" x 3" extrusion, I need to be able to remove the fence so I have room to work.  My plan is to use the 8020, some type of angle bracket connected to the 8020 and then attach to the T Track on the top of my bench.  First do you think this is will create a solid fence?  What bolts are typically used with 8020?  I am planning to use Incra t track or miter track, and if I am correct, that uses 1/4-20.

Thanks

WS,

The 1530 extrusion would make a fence you could drive a truck upon, it is a very beefy material. You might consider the 30mm (30 series) or 1" (10 or 15 series is basically 1") for a fence, it would be more than heavy enough. The downside to the 10 or 25 series is that the Festool clamps do not fit the slots, for that you need the 15 or 40 series or, if you are not opposed to filing a bit off the side of the clamps, they will just fit into the 30 series. I did this to all my clamps and it does not impact their use in the Festool tracks.

Another option, depending on whether you want t-slots on both the face and rear of the extrusion, is the 15 series 3034 extrusion, it is only 3/4" wide but still 3" tall, one side is smooth (slot-less):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8020-T-Slot-Aluminum-Extrusion-15-S-3034-L-x-48-N-/370155124158?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item562ef6f5be

The 1030 profile is 1" by 3" or the 2576 profile is 25mm by 75mm, nearly identical and either one would make a great fence. Of the 10 or 25 series I prefer the 25, it's surface is smooth, lacking all the little grooves:

http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale/_i.html?_nkw=2576&submit=Search&_sid=129537225

8020 mostly uses t-nuts in the slots and they have different ones to fit each for each series of extrusion, most all the nuts come tapped for 1/4" or smaller fasteners. For your use the economy tee nuts are as good as any:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8020-Inc-T-Slot-Hardware-1-4-20-Economy-T-Nut-15-Series-3286-25-pack-/400331634625?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d359ff7c1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8020-T-Slot-Hardware-1-4-20-Economy-T-Nut-10-Series-3382-30-Pcs-N-/221138750379?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337ce58bab

The same t-nuts fit both 10 and 25 series profiles.

If you do end up using the 1530 profile go with the lite-smooth (1530-LS) option, it is somewhat lighter and less costly. Lasly, you can download any section of the 8020 catalog, which will give you dimensions of the slots, etc:

http://www.8020.net/Product-Catalog.asp

Have fun!

RMW

 

[dvbarrera]

Hey guys

I'm pretty new to all this especially, Festool products and 8020.  I'd like to make my own custom MFT table using a 1080 top and then incorporate 8020 products to make a custom top rails as Steve from QWAS did and a custom base so that I can possibly make it into a storage/sysport. My plan is to also use the QWAS rail dogs for the festool tracks.

I'd like to use 1530-Lite for the four top rails and then 1515-lite for the base, however I'm looking for suggestions as to how to make the connections for the top so that I can slide things in and out of the top slots.  Also I'm not sure what connections I would use to attach the top assembly to the 1515 base.  Of course, I would need to drop in the MFT top and use it as normal. 

If anyone could point me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it.  I've been on the ebay site for 8020 and have downloaded their catalogs but it's almost information overload. 

Thanks

Dave

Dave

 

[Qwas]

Welcome to the FOG  [welcome]

You might try checking out this corner connector from 80/20: 15 S 3364. It could be installed in the top slot and leave the bottom slot open for attaching the base. I haven't used or personally seen this connector so I'm going by the catalog info.

Another option would to use the 15 S 4351 joining plate on the bottom slots of the 1530 rails. The problem is attaching the base. If you have a way to cut the aluminum you can notch out the 4351 plate for the base.

 

[Svar]

Dave,
My preference would be this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-20-T-Slot-Aluminum-Corner-Gusset-15-S-4338-N-/370128521448?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item562d6108e8
or this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-20-Aluminum-15-Series-4-Hole-Inside-Corner-Gusset-Bracket-4336-Rough-Edges-/400528103629?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d4155d8cd
I have used 15 S 3364 N connectors and they have a tendency to loosen up. They are very neat though for non dynamic applications.

 

[festoolviking]

Kevin,
You should be able to see the pictures without registering. It was something that was recently (2 months ago?) changed.

I'm sorry to hear of your problems registering. I will be sure to bring it up with the powers to be over there.  [wink] I'm not sure about your registering problem but I'm sure it will be looked into.

I just noticed that I don't have permission to view pics and make posts on tf when "logged in", but wieving pics works fine as a "guest". Too bad since I've got a few gadgets to post there that I'm not allowed to post here.  [sad] I also had problems registering since my mailbox don't have a junkmail folder. I had to use another e-mail to register. Anyway that's why I'm more active on the FOG. 

Festoolviking

 

[dvbarrera]

Welcome to the FOG  [welcome]

You might try checking out this corner connector from 80/20: 15 S 3364. It could be installed in the top slot and leave the bottom slot open for attaching the base. I haven't used or personally seen this connector so I'm going by the catalog info.

Another option would to use the 15 S 4351 joining plate on the bottom slots of the 1530 rails. The problem is attaching the base. If you have a way to cut the aluminum you can notch out the 4351 plate for the base.

Thanks for the help to you and Svar. 

So far I'm thinking about using the 4336 corner connectors on the inside top rail and then using the 4351 Joining plate on the inside bottom rail, but set back a few inches, to connect the top to the 4 "legs".  If I'm planning this right, the base (which at this point is just 4 "legs") will be even with the side rails and the front will overhang.  Still working through the plan, but I would add cross members at the bottom (from front to back) to stiffen the side legs and create a way to add more 8020 pieces for the sysport component.

Next step is to work through adding either casters or leveling feet and figuring out all the hardware needed for each of the joining.  Quite the parts list

Thanks for the help and any continued input is MUCH appreciated