An issue with using the OF2200 as a jointer, and lessons learned

[Sparktrician]

This morning I took a piece of maple that I wanted to reduce into a fence for my drill press.  I'd already cut one edge and used the RO125 to get rid of rough planing marks on the broad sides with good success.  I wanted to joint one edge to use as a reference for further reductions later by using the OF2200 with a straight bit.  I set up the OF2200 with the straight bit.  I needed two guide rails, and set them up with the connectors.  The router took off about 1/16", so it wasn't a tough cut, and there was no torquing of the guide rails, yet the edge wasn't as smooth as I would have anticipated, in that there were some dings and what could be called sniping.  

Lesson #1 - Be sure that when the guide rails are connected, they are absolutely in line before locking down the screws on the connectors.  I used a 56" extruded straightedge to check then, and found that they were not dead on the money, then adjusted them to be dead in line.  

Lesson #2 - Be sure that you run the parallel edge guide over the joint between guide rail sections to be sure that there are no misalignments to cause skipping or catching.  

Lesson #3 - Be sure that the adjusting screws in the parallel edge guide have taken all the slack out and that there is no play to let the router wander.  

Lesson #4 - Be sure that the guide rails are brushed clean between passes to eliminate any chance of debris changing the trajectory of the router.  

I still didn't get the clean cut I was looking for, and don't know why.  The bit is a new, clean and sharp Whiteside bit; the guide rail is dead straight, there's no slack in the parallel edge guide; the guide rails were swept clean between passes.  Yet, I still kept getting the sniping periodically.  I talked to Bob Marino at length about the issue (thanks for your time, Bob), and we came to the conclusion that I was doing things right, yet I kept getting the sniping.  I tried shifting to the MFK700, but without good results, and I'll have to admit that I was the problem, not the MFK700.  Finally, I went back to the TS55 and got the smooth cut I'd been hoping to get with the OF2200.  

Here are a few photos of the kind of sniping that I was getting, and of the bit I was using.  You can see the wear pattern on both cutting edges on the bit to see that the depth of cut was pretty negligible, and that the edge isn't dinged.  Anybody have any ideas as to why I keep getting the sniping?  

 

[Bob Marino]

Willy,

I'm wondering if you were "going against the grain" of the wood, causing what looks like snipe? Did you try making  a "climb cut"?

Bob

 

[Sparktrician]

Tried it in both directions; normal and climb cut, with the same results.  I'm befuddled. 

 

[Bob Marino]

Tried it in both directions; normal and climb cut, with the same results.  I'm befuddled. 

Ok, was the density of the wood the same along the entire length of the board?

 

[Sparktrician]

Tried it in both directions; normal and climb cut, with the same results.  I'm befuddled. 

Ok, was the density of the wood the same along the entire length of the board?

No difference the entire length.  It was not a "perfect"piece of maple, from an appearance standpoint, but not flawed in any structural sense. 

Interesting how the TS55 did a better job than the OF2200.  That's just backwards from logic.  Nothing against the TS55, but I'd have anticipated that the OF2200 would have come up with a better result doing jointing. 

 

[monte]

.

Firstly, I would try an entirely different species of wood and try the same process.

Secondly, I personally get the best results with a  larger diameter straight bit - (the 2200 could handle it)

Thirdly, I would take a look at your stance (and your breathing) as you running the router.

 

[Sparktrician]

.

Firstly, I would try an entirely different species of wood and try the same process.

Secondly, I personally get the best results with a  larger diameter straight bit - (the 2200 could handle it)

Thirdly, I would take a look at your stance (and your breathing) as you running the router.

There's the thought of trying another species, and I can't disagree with this, yet maple is what I want to use in the application.  My prejudices, I know. 

The bit used is a 3/4" diameter fit.  How much bigger are you suggesting? 

Bob and I discussed feed rate and consistency of approach, and I think (although I can't speak for Bob) that we're in agreement that approach is not an issue. 

Thanks for your input. 

 

[tbellemare]

Willy:

Were you getting any stuttering? By that I mean was the entire movement smooth?

I've used the guide stop when I had both hands on the router and with one hand on the guide stop. I think it works better with one hand on the guide stop sometimes.

Tom

 

[monte]

.

The reason I would use another species is for to see if the dimple issue repeats itself. (strictly R & D)

As for the size - probably at least an inch. ( I usually get the better results with oversize bits)

As to your "sweep" with the router, are you pausing for a brief moment as you are making your pass??

 

[junk731]

Did you clamp the rail to your wood to eliminate any possible wood movement and do the pass in one continuous movement? Any stop you make could create such a mark. Also a spiral bit might help.

John

 

[Sparktrician]

Willy:

Were you getting any stuttering? By that I mean was the entire movement smooth?

I've used the guide stop when I had both hands on the router and with one hand on the guide stop. I think it works better with one hand on the guide stop sometimes.

Tom

Tom,
    I thought of that, given the weight of the OF2200, and the potential for imbalance, and chose to keep one hand on the guide stop.  I concur that this is the better way to go.  I'm at a loss to understand the occasional sniping.  It's so irregular that I am unable to attribute it to anything in specific.  Thanks for your thoughts, Tom.  

 

[Sparktrician]

.

The reason I would use another species is for to see if the dimple issue repeats itself. (strictly R & D)

As for the size - probably at least an inch. ( I usually get the better results with oversize bits)

As to your "sweep" with the router, are you pausing for a brief moment as you are making your pass??

I don't disagree with you regarding shift of species, and will give that a try, just as you suggest, for R&D. 

There are no pauses in the "sweep", as you put it.  It's a smooth, consistent movement. 

Thanks for your consideration. 

 

[Sparktrician]

Did you clamp the rail to your wood to eliminate any possible wood movement and do the pass in one continuous movement? Any stop you make could create such a mark. Also a spiral bit might help.

John

Yes, the rail was clamped at both ends.  I tried to ensure that there were no stops or pauses in the travel of the router once it got started.  Given that I was taking only 1/16" in each pass, it was easy to move swiftly and consistently, and to have no apparent pauses or "holidays".  The spiral bit is something I didn't try.  I think I have a spiral bit, and will give that a shot, just to see how it does.  Thanks for the suggestion. 

 

[semenza]

Hi,

I think the problem may simply stem from  there being a lot of small variables. It will only take one of them being just a hair (possibly not even really noticably) off to cause a small dip. You could do lots of things to reduce the variables and still not get everything quite there.

Does the "snipe" occur in or near the same place each time?

A minor (imperceptable)  change in pressure on the router / slash guide would be enough to tilt it  in.

All kinds of possibilties.

I think the TS55 worked better partly because the blade is covering a braoder portion of the edge. A slight tilt etc, would be smoothed away at least in appearance.

I too get better results by using a larger diameter bit for jointing. I do my edge jointing with a 1" daimeter straight bit in the router table.

Seth

srs

 

[tjbnwi]

I agree on trying the spiral bit or this style bit with a sheer cut;

http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~7/8/906.191~2

Not certain, but I believe Festool makes this style bit also.

Tom

 

[Jesse Cloud]

OK, I'm in a bad mood , but cut me a little slack here.  How about trying a jointer as a jointer?  The OF2200 is a great router, but its not a shaper, and its not a jointer.  Use the right tool for the job.

Showing my age here, but when I was a kid, I loved Mad Magazine.  They did a parody once of Popular Mechanics.  The article was much longer but ran something like "How to convert a screwdriver into a chisel"  "How to convert a chisel into a handplane", "How to convert a handplane into a chisel", "How to convert a chisel into a screwdriver" - so after a lot of work you wound up with a much shorter version of what you started with....

Yeah, I feel bad criticizing innovation, but I'm old and all these 'why can't my Festool drill cut filigree?' complaints are getting tiresome....

OK, end rant, sorry. [embarassed]

 

[Ken Nagrod]

[thumbs up] [thumbs up]  Jesse, I loved that!  Nothing like a good hard chuckle to end the day!

So I guess you don't use your C12 to whip that pancake batter in the morning?

 

[jvsteenb]

I may be way off, but was the guiderail the only support for the router? When doing edgework with a router the size of the OF 2200, you need all the support you can get. In that case I'd rather use the extended sole and position the guiderail to make room for it, or use the stepped sole and a piece of material  to support the "free hanging" end. Even with the OF 1010 I consider "unsupported"edge routing a risk, as it's rather easy to tilt the router, and even a very little shift of balance can cause snipes like you experience. Remember: the guiderail does a great job constricting the router in the horizontal plane, but not so much in the vertical plane - and without proper support even a .5 degree  rotation will easily cause sniping. Even when the back of the rail and/or the parallel edge guide lifts only a quarter of a mm (hardly noticeable) you will see noticeable snipe.
Using a larger bit will not conquer this effect, ( in contrary, for it will take the centre of gravity farther away from the rail ) but by being relatively shallow, the snipe will be less noticeable.

Just my €0.02, as usual.

Regards,

Job

 

[peter halle]

So I guess you don't use your C12 to whip that pancake batter in the morning?

To add a little levity, here is a spoof on something similar from the November 2008 Contest.  You can find that thread here:  Humorous Contest November 2008

This image came from post 23 in that thread:

[attachimg=#]

 

[jvsteenb]

That's sacrilege ! I sure don't use my OF 1010 for that ! Shame on you !
I duefully respect it's power and controllability and use it to drive a rotating mop to clean the floor after I HAND-WHIPPED any batter....
BTW: the TS55/MFT-3 makes short work of exactly portioning frozen sausage... Faster, easier, etc....

Regards,

Job