An issue with using the OF2200 as a jointer, and lessons learned

[Sparktrician]

OK, I'm in a bad mood , but cut me a little slack here.  How about trying a jointer as a jointer?   The OF2200 is a great router, but its not a shaper, and its not a jointer.  Use the right tool for the job.

Showing my age here, but when I was a kid, I loved Mad Magazine.  They did a parody once of Popular Mechanics.  The article was much longer but ran something like "How to convert a screwdriver into a chisel"  "How to convert a chisel into a handplane", "How to convert a handplane into a chisel", "How to convert a chisel into a screwdriver" - so after a lot of work you wound up with a much shorter version of what you started with....

Yeah, I feel bad criticizing innovation, but I'm old and all these 'why can't my Festool drill cut filigree?' complaints are getting tiresome....

OK, end rant, sorry. [embarassed]

Thanks, Jesse, I needed that!!! 

As for the question, I don't have a jointer.  Hence the concept of using the OF2000 as a substitute.  You know, use a bigger hammer.  If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway. 

[big grin]  [big grin]  [big grin]

 

[Sparktrician]

I may be way off, but was the guiderail the only support for the router? When doing edgework with a router the size of the OF 2200, you need all the support you can get. In that case I'd rather use the extended sole and position the guiderail to make room for it, or use the stepped sole and a piece of material  to support the "free hanging" end. Even with the OF 1010 I consider "unsupported"edge routing a risk, as it's rather easy to tilt the router, and even a very little shift of balance can cause snipes like you experience. Remember: the guiderail does a great job constricting the router in the horizontal plane, but not so much in the vertical plane - and without proper support even a .5 degree  rotation will easily cause sniping. Even when the back of the rail and/or the parallel edge guide lifts only a quarter of a mm (hardly noticeable) you will see noticeable snipe.
Using a larger bit will not conquer this effect, ( in contrary, for it will take the centre of gravity farther away from the rail ) but by being relatively shallow, the snipe will be less noticeable.

Just my €0.02, as usual.

Regards,

Job

Thanks, Job.  Yes, the guide rail was the sole support, and with my big left hand holding the parallel edge guide down to the guide rail.  Given that the board was only 5 1/2" wide, I had it distributed across my two MFT3s placed end-to-end, and had 3/4" blocking under the portion of the guide rail that didn't sit directly on the maple board, just to give the guide rail some additional support.  So for now, my next step is to try it on a piece of cherry and see if the same thing happens.  The cherry I have in stock is much wider which will preclude the need for blocking under the guide rail. 

[smile]

 

[Sparktrician]

So I guess you don't use your C12 to whip that pancake batter in the morning?

To add a little levity, here is a spoof on something similar from the November 2008 Contest.  You can find that thread here:  Humorous Contest November 2008

This image came from post 23 in that thread:

[attachimg=#]

Let's see, you have cream-colored walls in the kitchen...  [big grin]  Bet the cats love it when you whip cream with that big beast!!! 

[big grin] [big grin] [big grin]

 

[greg mann]

Running this set-up over two tables means there might be some instability from one or both tables shifting slightly. Are they locked together independant of the guiderail?

 

[Sparktrician]

Running this set-up over two tables means there might be some instability from one or both tables shifting slightly. Are they locked together independant of the guiderail?

They are joined together with the correct connectors, Greg. 

[smile]

 

[JJ Wavra]

How do you know the faces that you are running the router on are flat if you do not have a jointer?  A slight dip in the face alng with the weight of the router on the rail could also cause this to happen. I also would want full support under the rail with extra wood sticking out the back.
JJ

Jesse I got a chuckle out of you post.

 

[harry_]

Sparktrician,

I am curious. Does it happen at the same location every time?

 

[Sparktrician]

Sparktrician,

I am curious. Does it happen at the same location every time?

No, Harry, it seems to be random and unpredictable.  That's what's so befuddling. 

[huh]

 

[Sparktrician]

How do you know the faces that you are running the router on are flat if you do not have a jointer?  A slight dip in the face alng with the weight of the router on the rail could also cause this to happen. I also would want full support under the rail with extra wood sticking out the back.
JJ

Jesse I got a chuckle out of you post.

The object was to make a straight face using the router on guide rails since I don't have a jointer, JJ.  The MFTs were used to provide a stable platform on which to run the router, and yes, I used full-length blocking under the back side of the rail to stabilize it from twisting. 

[smile]

 

[junk731]

I think one point that should be made is that even with a jointer, to get a surface much better than what you are getting is very difficult. Some sanding or hand planing is always required. The speed or lack of speed also has a lot to do whether these small imperfections occur. Some are also under the mistaken impression that the slower you go the better/smoother the surface will turn out. The type and sharpness of bit/blade you are using also has a lot to do with the final surface appearance. Take a look at the wood you buy that has already be planed/jointed and 99% of the time you will see those same minor imperfections(small scallops). I think the time to really worry is when you are getting imperfections that can't be remove with light sanding or planing.

John

 

[Sparktrician]

Well, this morning I grabbed a piece of cherry that needed to be cleaned off, and used the OF2200 with the 3/4" straight bit that I had used with the maple to joint the edge.  The cherry piece was held down by the guide rail which was clamped at both ends to the MFT3.  The guide stop was snug to the guide rail, as previously with the maple.  No sniping whatsoever.  I readjusted the guide rail and did a climb cut with the 3/4" bit.  Again, no sniping.  I changed to the 1/2" spiral bit that had been suggested earlier.  Once more, absolutely no sniping.  Still, in every case, I felt that the routed edge was not as smooth as expected.  Not that it was rough; it just wasn't smooth as the proverbial baby's butt.  Interestingly, a quick wipe of the routed edge with a paper towel resulted in additional smoothness.  Now I'm wondering why the maple which was clamped down every bit as securely had the tendency to snipe.  I'm at a loss to understand why the maple had a tendency to snipe, yet the cherry didn't. 

[huh]

 

[harry_]

I find american cherry to be significantly softer than maple. That could be the culprit.

Maybe try the maple again as you have much more practice at the task now?

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I love maple, but it can really break your heart when its in a mood.  A buddy just last week resawed a beautiful piece of maple, came back the next day and it had bowed and warped something terrible.

If the next try comes out the same way, a couple of swipes with a sharp handplane should fix it.

 

[harry_]

I love maple, but it can really break your heart when its in a mood. 

That aint no lie! I have the similar issues with cherry. Except with the cherry it is chip-out

 

[fdengel]

Could the bit be dull?

I recently sent a nailer in for service and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.  Every time I tried to fire the nails into the workpiece, they consistently stopped about half-way in, and the nailer was basically new, so I assumed there was an adjustment that needed to be made or something...

Turns out I had bad nails.  When the nailer came back, I tried different nails and it worked fine.  Put what I had left of the old ones in, had problems again...

 

[Sparktrician]

I love maple, but it can really break your heart when its in a mood. 

That aint no lie! I have the similar issues with cherry. Except with the cherry it is chip-out

Maple is just beautiful, and cherry is my favorite.  Never had chip-out with cherry, though, even on a climb cut.  Guess I've been lucky. 

[smile]

 

[Sparktrician]

Could the bit be dull?

I recently sent a nailer in for service and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.  Every time I tried to fire the nails into the workpiece, they consistently stopped about half-way in, and the nailer was basically new, so I assumed there was an adjustment that needed to be made or something...

Turns out I had bad nails.  When the nailer came back, I tried different nails and it worked fine.  Put what I had left of the old ones in, had problems again...

Nope.  The bits are new, and rarely used, and sharp as can be.  My fingers bear the marks of their sharpness. 

[scared]

 

[greg mann]

You very well might have minor stress relieving taking place. As you remove material the board may be warping and it is telegraphing into the bit. The TS 55 would wipe out these movements with the wiping action of the teeth. I agree that a swipe with the hand plane is probably the easiest way to deal with these imperfections.