Any suggestions for Low-profile guide rail clamps???

[thender]

I hope I won't exceed my "newbie question quota" by submitting a second query.

I'm proud owner of a brand new TS55.  I realize that in many cases you don't NEED to clamp the rails to the wood, but often it seems like it would be a good idea.

I've seen the Festool clamps.  Both the quick clamps and the screw clamps hang down quite some ways below the clamping surface.  Not a worry if you are on a bench or MFT.

But most of my usage will be cutting up sheet goods, and most of that work will be on the floor, with the wood supported on 4x4's, 2x4's, or foam panels.  So the Festool clamps won't work there.

Any suggestion for low-profile clamps, that would fit in the 1 1/2 inch space that I'll have available? 

In the past, I used spring clamps to hold my circular saw guide in place.  But the guide extended further outboard from the saw than the Festool guide rail does.... 

Thanks in advance, once again.

-Tom H.
Ventura, CA

 

[paul_david_thomas]

Hi Tom,

The TS55 was my first purchase too.... However, before you go buying some clamps... In two years I've prob. used the clamps perhaps twice with the guide rail. It does just stick to things... So, I'd suggest trusting the guide for a little. It's an odd feeling, but it does work.

Paul.

 

[Forrest Anderson]

I'm proud owner of a brand new TS55.  I realize that in many cases you don't NEED to clamp the rails to the wood, but often it seems like it would be a good idea.

I have the TS55 and clamps too, but Paul's reply seems to sum up most people's experience. When I first got the saw, I started off by clamping it to the board, but then I discovered that the rail held still very well without any clamping it at all. As far as I am aware, the rail has never moved when I've been sawing and the rail has just been held by gravity and friction!

The nearest low-profile under-rail solution from Festool that I can think of is the FS-Rapid Clamp, which relies on applying pressure to the edges or ends of the board to hold the rail in place, rather than to the undersurface.

You might be able to make something, perhaps based on a spring clamp with one leg modified to fit into the underside of the rail.

A better solution might be to make "feet" that slide into the groove in the top of the rail and extend sideways on top of the wood you are cutting. You then use a normal F clamp or similar to clamp the feet to the board. I don't have time to draw a diagram this morning, but can do so later tonight if you want. It might be possible to use the Festool Limit Stop for this (Order No 491582), but instead of mounting it like in the photo below, turn it round by 180 degrees so that it sticks out sideways from the rail, and then clamp that to the board, perhaps using a spacer between the bottom of the stop and the board's surface.

Another way of securing the rail to a flat surface is to use one or more Gecko suction units:

These also fit into the groove that runs along the top of the rail, but as you can imagine, they depend on the porosity of the board's surface for suction power.

Forrest

 

[thender]

have the TS55 and clamps too, but Paul's reply seems to sum up most people's experience. When I first got the saw, I started off by clamping it to the board, but then I discovered that the rail held still very well without any clamping it at all. As far as I am aware, the rail has never moved when I've been sawing and the rail has just been held by gravity and friction!

The nearest low-profile under-rail solution from Festool that I can think of is the FS-Rapid Clamp, which relies on applying pressure to the edges or ends of the board to hold the rail in place, rather than to the undersurface.

You might be able to make something, perhaps based on a spring clamp with one leg modified to fit into the underside of the rail.

A better solution might be to make "feet" that slide into the groove in the top of the rail and extend sideways on top of the wood you are cutting.

Paul & Forrest-

Thanks for your comments. 

My worry about the clamping is that I'll kick the guide, or snag it with the cord, etc after it is put in place but before I start the cut, and won't notice until too late.  Perhaps that is just my inexperience, but I'm pretty good at shooting myself in the foot....  so I'd like to be prepared with something.

Thank you for explaining to me exactly how the "rapid clamps" are supposed to work;  now it seems obvious but the catalog description didn't make sense to me.  I was so fixed on clamping vertically -- clamping the guide down onto the work -- that it didn't occur to me that you can also clamp axially.  The Rapid Clamps may be my best bet.

But making some sort of "finger" arrangement as you describe may be the low cost method... which has a certain charm of its own.

Again, thanks to both of you for your thoughtful comments.

-Tom H.
Ventura, CA

 

[paul_david_thomas]

Trust your feet...

I've kicked/knocked the guide a few times. But it only happens when I am in a hurry or the place is untidy. But, I've always noticed and never cut incorrectly - well, apart from when I don't measure twice, cut once...

 

[ScooterX]

the only time i've had to clamp the rail to a full sheet panel (plywood) is once on a domed piece (a special sheet that was 1/8" thicker in the middle than on the ends) and another time when I was cutting up a crappy wavy panel (it was 1/4" thick and so wavy that I was concerned about the rail moving). In two years I've never had to clamp the rail down to regular flat work.

 

[peter halle]

Regarding the Rapid clamp set, I seem to remember that there are several members here who have bought them but then haven't used them due to lack of need?  Just throwing this out in an effort to pass this on and potentially save you a couple of bucks.

Peter

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I frequently use simple spring clamps to secure the Guide Rail when ripping full sheets of plywood if I am unable to use the Festool clamps.  For some cuts I may have to stop the cut to reposition the spring clamp but that is not a problem.  If you are careful, you should be able to mount the spring clamp so that it only grips the outermost rib on the Guide Rail and thus allows the TS 55 saw to pass by without any interference.  I used this technique recently to rip several sheets into several equal width pieces that became the sides and shelves of two bookcases.  I wasn't going to take any chances given the >US$80 cost per sheet of the oak plywood I was using.  All the rips came out extremely well and of even width.

Dave R.