anybody use the kreg jig with azek??

[erock]

So my boss wants me to rebuild some exterior shutters. None functional.  And he wants to use Azek since we use it for all of our exterior trim. 
It's my call on which way I want to rebuild them, so I thought about the domino but I don't want to make Azek domino's.  So I'm thinking about using pocket holes. 

Has anyone used the Kreg jig with Azek?  I know I could just cut a  couple pieces and test it out. But I wanted some input on this for how strong the joint will be and IF it would hold up.  And if anyone has used Kregs plastic plugs with the Azek glue??

Thanks for any info and advice.

Eric

 

[gbruzze1]

Pocket screws will work fine. Use a pvc board cement like the one axel or bond n fill make. Once it cures it will be a very strong joint.

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[peter halle]

Pocket screws will work fine. Use a pvc board cement like the one axel or bond n fill make. Once it cures it will be a very strong joint.

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Totally agree.  If you really want to not worry, you can get stainless pocket hole screws from McFeeleys.

If you place the pocket screws on the back you wouldn't need to use the plugs.

Peter

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Eric,

I've used Azek a lot, with pocket screws and the Azek adhesive.  First, I don't like Azek, mainly because the thickness varies, mostly from board to board as they have a poor manufacturing tolerance (the poor part is my opinion).  1/32" tolerance is unacceptable to me and shows when you do things like framing out the exterior of a window.  What also makes it a little trickier is when you've drilled the holes with the Kreg jig, then go to join the pieces and they creep a little when driving in the pocket screw (no matter how much clamping pressure).  That tends to exacerbate the thickness discrepency between joined pieces of Azek where the joint level is easily seen and felt.  I've frequently had to use the RO150 to sand the frames down level.  Kreg recommened to me to use the course threaded washer head screws.  For the heck of it I tried course, fine, washer head, regular head.  Didn't notice the thread count made any change, but I would stick with the washer head style.  BE VERY CAREFUL driving in the screws as it's extremely easy to strip out the Azek and it's not forgiving like wood where you can back it out to reposition slightly.  I don't waste money on the stainless steel screws.  I just use their exterior grade (blue color coating) screws and fill the pockets with silicone to keep from trapping water.  Make sure you secure the Azek using their recommended fastening procedure and fastener type found on their website to CYA should a problem arise later on.

Any other questions you can think of, let me know as I've done a lot of research and testing for myself with Azek and similar products.  

 

[erock]

Thanks guys.

Ken, I know what you mean about the thickness difference between the boards.  That's one thing I was worried about.  I can't believe that the manufacture can't mill the material to a uniformed thickness.  The crown moulding, brick mold and other trims are fine.  But the 1x material is garbage.  They can't even square up the ends!  [mad]

I'm going to give the Kreg jig a shot.  I will take your advise and use silicone to fill up the pocket holes.  Beats pluging them and sanding them down. 
This will be my first time using Azek for something other then trimming out an exterior of a house.  This will be fun.  I may play around a little with the Azek and try some mortise and tenon joinery, or a half lap joint with the Azek glue.  I know my options are endless.  But the Kreg would be a fast fix.
And if it doesn't work out for me,  there is always good old fashion wood!

Thanks again for your advise guys.

Eric

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Clear PVC glue works just fine.  I heard the best is Christy's Red Hot.

I use the Excel brand, unless I need sheets.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

The Azek tech guy admitted to me once that pvc plumbing adhesive will work and it's cheaper than the Azek branded stuff.

 

[vwdave]

I use the kreg jig on all my azek. I don't use the clamp much because of the thickness differences. I just hold the peices by hand screw and get the faces good. I use the Christies red hot exclusively it's great just don't let it squeeze out to the face as it will melt it. A little bit goes a long way. I try to talk the homeowner into painting it so u can sand it and get it perfect. I use 180-220 grit paper and the azek paints beautifully.

 

[Brice Burrell]

The Azek tech guy admitted to me once that pvc plumbing adhesive will work and it's cheaper than the Azek branded stuff.

The Azek glue has a UV inhibitor, the plumbing adhesive dosen't.  Not a big deal to me since I always paint Azek.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

The Azek tech guy admitted to me once that pvc plumbing adhesive will work and it's cheaper than the Azek branded stuff.

The Azek glue has a UV inhibitor, the plumbing adhesive dosen't.  Not a big deal to me since I always paint Azek.

Thanks Brice.  Don't recall hearing that from tech support.  Anyway, you could still save a little by just rubbing on a little of this to every Azek joint:

 

[Billnut]

Christy's Red Hot is the hands down best glue for Azek.  I have used a few different kinds of glue and the Christy's is the best.