Anybody Using BUSH Oil?

A short search reveals mixed reviews. Long time drying once applied for some users. One user claims it's a mixture of Boiled Linseed Oil, Tung Oil, and Urethane. I have no idea whether that's accurate.  If it's not polymerized Tung Oil, then the lack of driers in the mixture can greatly increase cure times like you'd expect anyway from straight /pure Tung Oil.
Another user reports that they get the common water/white rings on their dining room table that they finished with the Bush Oil, but after a short time,the marks go away. This to me really suggests Tung Oil, more than BLO as the base oil.
They also state they don't have don't have problem with it since the white glass marks are never permanent and they've gotten used to the temporary marks on the table after a meal.
So, sounds like a regular Tung Oil finish for the most part, but since you'll never really know how you like, or dislike it , for your own application, go and get some if you're still curious.  Sounds like it's made or sold in New York State anyway, so you're supporting your own local business community while you're at it...  [wink]
 
The MSDS shows it's 31-40% linseed oil plus 31-40% other oils ("aliphatic hydrocarbons"), 1-10% urethane (varnish) and 1-10% solvents ("aliphatic petroleum distillates").  It includes some cobalt and manganese drying agents.
 
I have used it on a number of projects with good results.

Lately, I have been mixing my own using combinations of the following basic ingredients:
Linseed Oil
Spar Varnish
Polyurethane
Odorless Mineral Spirits
Turpentine
Pure Tung Oil

I haven't mixed any wax into my finishes yet, as Sam Maloof did, but I may try that also. For now, I just put a coat of wax on after the finish has cured.

Charles
 
For the first coat, I use 1/3 oil, 1/3 varnish/poly, and 1/3 thinner (mineral spirits or turpentine). The turpentine takes longer to evaporate so the finish penetrates more.  This is best ragged on, and wiped off after 30 minutes or so after the wood stops absorbing the finish.

The remaining coats use 1/2 oil and 1/2 varnish/poly.

Light sanding, (400 grit) between coats.

After the final coat cures, (a few weeks or so), you can rub down the surface to get the desired gloss.

A commercial product that uses a similar formula is Minwax Tung Oil Finish. There is actually no Tung Oil in this product, but it produces consistently nice results and offers more protection that a pure oil finish.

With a product that is mostly oil, like Bush Oil, you must wipe off the excess after each application, and it takes many coats to get any build to the finish.

 
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