Hello, I'm working on some Hard Maple countertops and tables for a job at a coffee shop/ roaster, and I'm trying to find a nice clear flat to satin finish, as per the customer's request. Since its a such a light colored Maple, and the customer really wants to retain the color, I'm kind of struggling to find a good option. We looked at General Finishes Flat water-based topcoat, but after experimenting with some samples the finish doesn't appear to hold up on the heavy-use areas. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve
Anyone have a recommendation for a Flat to Satin clear finish for countertops?
- Thread starter scbucc
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AstroKeith
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I would consider a hard wax oil. My goto is Fiddes Matt Clear. I started using it on floors and then kitchen work surfaces. I've never had a mark from any spillage etc, including spirits, red wine, curry sauce, blackcurrants.
After two years I gave the kitchen work surfaces a freshen up, although they probably didnt strictly need it yet, but I wanted to preserve the look.
For me it highlights the grain and with just a slightly richer hue, whilst giving a harder surface to the wood. It takes wear naturally and many visitors have assumed its bare wood and cant believe how perfect it has kept.
After two years I gave the kitchen work surfaces a freshen up, although they probably didnt strictly need it yet, but I wanted to preserve the look.
For me it highlights the grain and with just a slightly richer hue, whilst giving a harder surface to the wood. It takes wear naturally and many visitors have assumed its bare wood and cant believe how perfect it has kept.
A number of years ago the local Starbucks asked me to refinish the tables in the restaurant. The factory finish had become soft due to the frequent cleaning with disinfectant sprays.
I stripped off the original finish and applied four coats of Minwax oil-based clear in semi-gloss, lightly scuffing between coats. I then waited one week before delivering the tabletops.
I would note that it takes about 200 hours for a "full" cure, which is probably a 90% cure. By allowing the finish to fully cure I believe the longevity of the tabletops was ensured. I delivered a full week after the last coat of finish was applied.
Starbucks remodels all of their stores on a 10-year cycle. My refinished tops were probably in service for 8½ years and were in good condition with only micro-scratches on the surface when they were retired.
Other finishes might serve as well, but this is the finish that I know stands up to commercial use. It is the same finish I applied to my wood countertops at home. Those tops are 7 or 8 years old and in good condition. But they do not receive the hard use that the Starbucks table tops got. So I expect those to last a long, long time.
I stripped off the original finish and applied four coats of Minwax oil-based clear in semi-gloss, lightly scuffing between coats. I then waited one week before delivering the tabletops.
I would note that it takes about 200 hours for a "full" cure, which is probably a 90% cure. By allowing the finish to fully cure I believe the longevity of the tabletops was ensured. I delivered a full week after the last coat of finish was applied.
Starbucks remodels all of their stores on a 10-year cycle. My refinished tops were probably in service for 8½ years and were in good condition with only micro-scratches on the surface when they were retired.
Other finishes might serve as well, but this is the finish that I know stands up to commercial use. It is the same finish I applied to my wood countertops at home. Those tops are 7 or 8 years old and in good condition. But they do not receive the hard use that the Starbucks table tops got. So I expect those to last a long, long time.
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Urethanes are not a good choice here. There are a number of hard wax oils that might be appropriate, two of which are Osmo (many products) and Rubio Monocoat. Urethanes are not particularly durable and not repairable so even though it's simple to get a great finish with them, longterm not a great solution for your application. Another choice might be Waterlox....it contains phenolic resins which are good for durability. Lacquer is favored by some and can be durable, but to me it looks "plasticy". You might want to look up some articles by Bob Flexner or Jeff Jewitt. They are both well known experts in wood finishing.scbucc said:
This article from Popular Woodworking addresses this question. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/...staurant-tables-whats-the-best-finish-to-use/
They say that a two-part epoxy is the most durable (and the cure is chemical so it takes just 24 hours).
I brushed on the finish, and they agree that for a brushed-on finish oil-based poly is best. I agree that waterbased poly is not going to stand up to the constant wiping.
I do think that a waxed finish will require constant maintenance with frequent re-waxing; something most restauranteurs will not do regularly.
They like conversion varnish and catalyzed lacquer, but I've always been afraid to use those as they say it requires expert knowledge and is best left to professionals.
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/...staurant-tables-whats-the-best-finish-to-use/
For a pour-on finish epoxy resin is the best. In fact, it’s the most durable of all common finishes. Just like epoxy adhesive, it comes in two parts, which you mix before pouring it onto the surface and spreading it out evenly.
For a sprayed-on finish in a non-industrial setting, the best is conversion varnish, which also comes in two parts for you to mix before spraying. Right behind conversion varnish in durability is catalyzed lacquer, both one-part and two-part.
For a brushed-on finish, oil-based polyurethane is best. It is significantly more durable than water-based polyurethane for bar tops and restaurant tables because alcohol spills and the chemicals used for cleaning will soften water-based polyurethane over time.
They say that a two-part epoxy is the most durable (and the cure is chemical so it takes just 24 hours).
I brushed on the finish, and they agree that for a brushed-on finish oil-based poly is best. I agree that waterbased poly is not going to stand up to the constant wiping.
I do think that a waxed finish will require constant maintenance with frequent re-waxing; something most restauranteurs will not do regularly.
They like conversion varnish and catalyzed lacquer, but I've always been afraid to use those as they say it requires expert knowledge and is best left to professionals.
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/...staurant-tables-whats-the-best-finish-to-use/
For a pour-on finish epoxy resin is the best. In fact, it’s the most durable of all common finishes. Just like epoxy adhesive, it comes in two parts, which you mix before pouring it onto the surface and spreading it out evenly.
For a sprayed-on finish in a non-industrial setting, the best is conversion varnish, which also comes in two parts for you to mix before spraying. Right behind conversion varnish in durability is catalyzed lacquer, both one-part and two-part.
For a brushed-on finish, oil-based polyurethane is best. It is significantly more durable than water-based polyurethane for bar tops and restaurant tables because alcohol spills and the chemicals used for cleaning will soften water-based polyurethane over time.
chrisrosenb
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- 1,265
I built a kitchen 10 years ago with hard maple counter tops. I finished the tops with sprayed on Minwax satin oil based fast dry poly. I In the spring I was back to do more work for the same client. The maple tops looked just as good then as they did when they were installed.
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