Anyone who's awake and handy with skirting?

[Wuffles]

Can't get my head around how I'd make this look nice. Still cutting them so nothing's fixed yet. Limited room though for managing turns.

 

[jonny round boy]

Only way I could think to go would be to put in a plinth block, like this:

Then do a skirting return onto the side of the plinth block at the LHS, and just butt the reduced-height up to it on the left.

 

[Locks14]

What about tying it together with two bullseye corner blocks on each side of the corner and use the smaller skirt the whole way round?

 

[Kev]

This is one of those "no win" corners. Personally I'd take the lower skirt coming from the right all the way to the corner and cut it at 45 degrees. Then cut the left higher piece at the opposite 45 to align above the start of the lower skirt's mitre. Then you'll just need to cut a  small piece to bring the profile pattern down vertically (a small triangular shaped piece with the profile on the left).

If I'd had a little less wine to drink I'd sketch it [sad]

 

[G3Trim]

This is the best looking way of doing what your stuck with. You'll need to rip off the top profile from a piece of base miter it and glue it onto the side coming down. I included a rough drawing, hope it helps.[attachthumb=1]

 

[Wuffles]

Only way I could think to go would be to put in a plinth block, like this:

Then do a skirting return onto the side of the plinth block at the LHS, and just butt the reduced-height up to it on the left.

Nice. If all else fails.

What about tying it together with two bullseye corner blocks on each side of the corner and use the smaller skirt the whole way round?

Has to be the taller unfortunately, this is a cupboard hiding the underfloor heating manifold (and it's my fault it's so low). But the block idea is similar to his nib's one above - I like that idea.

This is one of those "no win" corners. Personally I'd take the lower skirt coming from the right all the way to the corner and cut it at 45 degrees. Then cut the left higher piece at the opposite 45 to align above the start of the lower skirt's mitre. Then you'll just need to cut a  small piece to bring the profile pattern down vertically (a small triangular shaped piece with the profile on the left).

If I'd had a little less wine to drink I'd sketch it [sad]

I reckon you're writing a story about the picture here (and thanks):

This is the best looking way of doing what your stuck with. You'll need to rip off the top profile from a piece of base miter it and glue it onto the side coming down. I included a rough drawing, hope it helps.[attachthumb=1]

That's what I was trying to imagine. I'll see if I can get it to fit in there, failing that, the blocks might work really well as it'll tie in the moulding coming down too.

Thanks all, as you were.

 

[Stephen B]

Thanks for this thread, without going into details, it has at least solved a less complicated skirting problem that I have.  [smile]

 

[kieran62]

Had a similar situation a few weeks ago, skirting coming over a step that was higher than the skirting level in the adjoinging room. I got over it by returning the skirting, a little fiddly; but some mitre mate solved the problem.
A quick and dirty sketch to show what I mean.

Kieran[attachimg=1]

 

[Dbn107]

Easiest option working with what you have would be to return the taller piece on itself and die the shorter piece into it. 

yep, just like that 

 

[Wuffles]

Had a similar situation a few weeks ago, skirting coming over a step that was higher than the skirting level in the adjoinging room. I got over it by returning the skirting, a little fiddly; but some mitre mate solved the problem.
A quick and dirty sketch to show what I mean.

Kieran[attachimg=1]

Oh hello. Like that. Not sure my fingers would like that being so close to my unruly mitre saw.

 

[Wuffles]

I'll just glue these on the ends then

I'd already made the square block corners too btw. I might sell them.

 

[Wuffles]

Not glued yet, but looks alright to me. May run the smaller piece through the saw to make it recessed slightly.

 

[Wuffles]

That's why I hang around here, every day is a school day and people can be so helpful.

 

[GarryMartin]

That's why I hang around here, every day is a school day and people can be so helpful.

Couldn't agree more.

I think that will look great filled, sanded and painted. Good choice of solution.

 

[Kev]

That's a winner! I'm going to remember that one [wink]

 

[kieran62]

Sorry to butt in again  [smile], I think you're right, looks like a design feature when recessed.[attachimg=1]

 

[Wuffles]

Sorry to butt in again  [smile], I think you're right, looks like a design feature when recessed.[attachimg=1]

You could have offered to 3D print that and post it to me really. When I say people are helpful, not all of them clearly.

I should have said, I'm sleeping with the boss on this job, so it's all a bit awkward.

 

[jonny round boy]

By the way, I meant to ask earlier, but forgot [embarassed]

What's the name of that skirting profile? I've not seen it before, and just curious.

 

[Holzhacker]

I love plinth blocks. Some sort of modified or fattened up plinth block is always a great way to deal with odd ball corners or trim thicknesses.

 

[Wuffles]

By the way, I meant to ask earlier, but forgot [embarassed]

What's the name of that skirting profile? I've not seen it before, and just curious.

Its romantic name is Type 37A (dresser mouldings).

I call it "thank you darling for choosing something different for the extension, so tall it won't fit in my chop saw vertically and therefore making my life difficult compared to the rest of the house. Oh, it comes un-primed, I look forward to standing on the driveway with only a bus shelter for cover painting it for days on end."

I've also bought Type 37B too, oooh posh! That's for around the base of the kitchen units - like she's seen in some magazine.

http://www.dressermouldings.com/store/timber-skirtings/type-37a-timber-skirting.html