Anyone with the 32 system help please asap

[joiner1970]

I have the chance to buy a new (FESTOOL 583290) at a good price and can get a 1080 rail also what else do I really need apart from a 1010 router and 5mm bit to do shelf peg holes.

I mean "really" as some of the bits in the full kit I dont really need ie 35mm drill bit for hinges I just use a drill.

So is it worth just buying the (FESTOOL 583290)

 

[tbellemare]

If you have the bit(s) and the rail, you should be set.

Tom

 

[joiner1970]

Cheers I thought I was but didnt know if I needed anything to line the rail up vertically ie some sort of stop against the top of the carcase sides.

 

[tbellemare]

That kit comes with the linear stops. They just don't show in the picture.

Tom

 

[joiner1970]

Oh right the 583290 does come with them.

 

[Brice Burrell]

This is the set I bought and I'd recommend it anyone. The parts needed not included in this kit are, LR32 guide rail, router bit(s) to drill the holes and while not required Festool clamps are nice to hold the rail and panel in place. You don't need Festool router bits but I'd recommend that because of their quality. If you want to drill 5mm holes I really like the 491066 bit, its a brad point tip that cuts very clean holes.

 

[honeydoman]

yes this is a great set to have for shelf pegs..  I usually do every hole which gives about a 2" space which is fine... especially if doing a nice built in.. or book case.  but the set works great  I also have 2 of the short rails and one of the long ones which works great.

 

[joiner1970]

This is the set I bought and I'd recommend it anyone. The parts needed not included in this kit are, LR32 guide rail, router bit(s) to drill the holes and while not required Festool clamps are nice to hold the rail and panel in place. You don't need Festool router bits but I'd recommend that because of their quality. If you want to drill 5mm holes I really like the 491066 bit, its a brad point tip that cuts very clean holes.

Spot on Brice thats exactly what i wanted to know. It was on ebay last night "buy it now"  gbp 110 thats about 50 cheaper than usual price but i didnt go for it , i dont think anyone bought it though so might still be able to get it you never know

 

[southern_guy]

I wouldn't use the 32 system without the clamps. The system is designed to give a very accurate result -which you won't get if you knock an unclamped rail as you move the router from hole to hole

 

[Peter Hamilton-Scott]

...don't need Festool router bits but I'd recommend that because of their quality...

Brice, that's an interesting point you make. Are the Festool bits measurably superior? For example, while it's generally true that genuine car parts are made to better specifications than third-party parts can we assume the same is true of router bits? What I'm getting at is that bits made by other reputable firms will also be manufactured to very precise tolerances as well. If you put a Festool bit's cut next to an equivalent bit's cut made by, say, Trend, do you think the difference is something you'd notice?

Back home in South Africa I gave my gardener a tin of paint and asked him to touch up some fencing panels. He did a nice job. Unfortunately, he was rummaging in my storeroom looking for something to prise the lid off the tin. He chanced upon one of my better and recently sharpened chisels! A superb tool in the hands of a master can be a wrecking-bar in other hands. ;D

 

[mastercabman]

I wouldn't use the 32 system without the clamps. The system is designed to give a very accurate result -which you won't get if you knock an unclamped rail as you move the router from hole to hole

DONE THAT!  Well i forgot to clamp it down and the fence moved just a little.

 

[Peter Hamilton-Scott]

I wouldn't use the 32 system without the clamps. The system is designed to give a very accurate result -which you won't get if you knock an unclamped rail as you move the router from hole to hole

DONE THAT!   Well i forgot to clamp it down and the fence moved just a little.

And the Muppet of the Day Award goes to... ;D

I too wear that teeshirt with pride. Before I discovered Festool's guide systems I generally found longer cuts using other guide systems were less than optimum. Welcome to my world!

 

[Brice Burrell]

...don't need Festool router bits but I'd recommend that because of their quality...

Brice, that's an interesting point you make. Are the Festool bits measurably superior? For example, while it's generally true that genuine car parts are made to better specifications than third-party parts can we assume the same is true of router bits? What I'm getting at is that bits made by other reputable firms will also be manufactured to very precise tolerances as well. If you put a Festool bit's cut next to an equivalent bit's cut made by, say, Trend, do you think the difference is something you'd notice?

That's a good question. My experience with Festool router bits has been very good, they stay sharp for a long time because of the top quality carbide. I don't know what is available in the UK but here in the States we have a number of other companies producing router bits every bit as good as Festool's and most of the time for less money. I bought some of Festool's specialty bits (like the 5 mm brad point bit I mentioned) and they have proven to be a very good value. For the more common bits like round over and straight bits I buy quality US made bits for sometimes as much as half the cost of Festool bits.

The biggest difference in high quality over lower priced bits is the carbide. A good bit can last much longer than the cheap ones.

 

[joiner1970]

I wouldn't use the 32 system without the clamps. The system is designed to give a very accurate result -which you won't get if you knock an unclamped rail as you move the router from hole to hole

I have the clamps dont worry, no self respecting Festoolian would be without clamps  ;D