I have used the auto switches in the past with good luck. I use THIS Its one of my favorite 20 dollar purchases I made for the shop. I use it to turn shop fans on/off and to turn my shop vac I have in a shed. I was lucky enough to have a shed next to the garage so all the noise generating equipment 3hp cyclone, large air compressor, vacuum pump stay in there. I use the shop vac for collecting dust from small tools sanders, track saw, domino etc. and ran 2" pvc with several drops to plug into. It has its plus and minuses the biggest minus is its an extra step to turn on/off but the plus is its also not tool activated I get to decide when to cycle it on/off. I have noticed when using the CT sanding a lot of times I am cycling the vac on/off a lot when sanding parts you need to flip/turn So just about the time the vac is winding down Im firing the sander on again. I think at the end of the day I actually prefer the remote control option to the tool trigger.
Are automatic vac switches safe?
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" I think at the end of the day I actually prefer the remote control option to the tool trigger."
I've noticed that start/stop issue with the miter saw which has me leaning toward using a handheld remote too. I have the iVac handheld remote and will probably use that for the time being and not mess with the individual switches. I wonder how a couple dozen starts an hour might affect the DC motor.
The remote switches you linked to [member=73094]afish[/member] look like a good deal. Are both outlets on each of the three switches operated simultaneously or individually? Either way three switches controlled form one remote is nice.
I've noticed that start/stop issue with the miter saw which has me leaning toward using a handheld remote too. I have the iVac handheld remote and will probably use that for the time being and not mess with the individual switches. I wonder how a couple dozen starts an hour might affect the DC motor.
The remote switches you linked to [member=73094]afish[/member] look like a good deal. Are both outlets on each of the three switches operated simultaneously or individually? Either way three switches controlled form one remote is nice.
Yes both plugs on the bottom work simultaneously. Im very happy with them and the range is good too. I need to investigate them more I would like to add some extras as well as have some others on a different frequency. I ended up pulling them from the shop to use for Christmas lights. If I can get some that are on a different frequency that would be great so my wife wouldn't be turning on my stuff when controlling the lights.
Crazyraceguy
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The mitersaw is the one place where I wouldn't use a tool-triggered set-up either. It just cycles too often/quickly for that.
As of now, in the new shop, mine is connected to the central dust collection system. It's not exactly ideal, because of the way most mitersaws throw dust at high speed. Bigger systems work more on volume of air, rather than velocity of air. After enclosing the backstop a bit more, it does ok.
For most of it's life in the old shop, I used a small stand-alone Shop-Fox 110v unit. I turned it on/off with a remote foot pedal switch. It worked very well in this application. I didn't have to keep track of a hand-held remote and I could carry something to the saw with both hands, step on the pedal and get right to it. This way I could leave it on continuously when making many cuts at once.
We did upgrade the dust collection in the last couple of years at the old building and the point-of-use collector was removed, but the foot pedal worked great for many years.
As of now, in the new shop, mine is connected to the central dust collection system. It's not exactly ideal, because of the way most mitersaws throw dust at high speed. Bigger systems work more on volume of air, rather than velocity of air. After enclosing the backstop a bit more, it does ok.
For most of it's life in the old shop, I used a small stand-alone Shop-Fox 110v unit. I turned it on/off with a remote foot pedal switch. It worked very well in this application. I didn't have to keep track of a hand-held remote and I could carry something to the saw with both hands, step on the pedal and get right to it. This way I could leave it on continuously when making many cuts at once.
We did upgrade the dust collection in the last couple of years at the old building and the point-of-use collector was removed, but the foot pedal worked great for many years.
Yes the mitersaw is probably the worst offender, and I have also noticed that my CT36ac slows me down a bit on the miterbox. Since it takes a few seconds to kick on and then another couple to spool up to full speed. Not to mention the constant cycling issue. The few extra seconds are not a big deal on site if there is just a few cuts here and there but in a production setup it would annoy me. I have adjusted a bit when using the CT on the SCMS and tend to pull the trigger first with one hand and then getting ready that way shes ready to suck by the time the blade makes the dust and not letting go of the trigger between multiple cuts if I can help it. However I still prefer my little remote for 20 bucks. I think I will pick up another set and just leave the CT on manual in the future.
Does the bluetooth have the same lag as the auto switch?
Does the bluetooth have the same lag as the auto switch?
squall_line
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afish said:
The bluetooth lag isn't horribly offensive, but it's still somewhat present.
Based on this whole conversation, I will likely place one of my spare BT remote buttons near my Kapex (probably strapped to the UG cart) and run the power separate from the CT 26.
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On the subject of multiple motor starts/stops I found this on the iVac website.
https://ivacswitch.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/High-Power-Dust-Collectors-Minimum-Run-Time.pdf
https://ivacswitch.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/High-Power-Dust-Collectors-Minimum-Run-Time.pdf
Crazyraceguy
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Bob D. said:
I have no clue what they are talking about there? They give an example of a 7HP dust collector, running for a least 8 minutes per start-up, which is fine.....but it's not happening with 110 volts. As far as I have ever seen, none of the IVacs work with 220 volt circuits?
But yeah, any of these actual dust collectors have a pretty big "flywheel" impeller, that take a bit to spin up. The start-up load lasts longer than most motors.
That was why I started with the foot switch. Kick it on and leave it run while making repetitive cuts.
tjbnwi
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I use the iVac Pro. It has a current sensor that triggers a the module the vac is plugged into. The advantage is you can use a 240V saw and run a 110V vac.
Inmy case the saw is an Omga with an on/off switch not a trigger. It is mounted to a Tiger Stop, there is no need to turn the saw off to measure pieces.
Someday I'll connect to the shop extractor but......
Tom
Inmy case the saw is an Omga with an on/off switch not a trigger. It is mounted to a Tiger Stop, there is no need to turn the saw off to measure pieces.
Someday I'll connect to the shop extractor but......
Tom
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"As far as I have ever seen, none of the IVacs work with 220 volt circuits?"
iVac makes a 240V contactor that is operated by a 120V iVac Switch.
Since I upgraded the bandsaw to the DVR motor I can't use my iVac Tool
sensor (1st gen) because the trip point is below the amps required to power
the bandsaw motor controller so it never resets when the saw is turned off.
iVac makes a 240V contactor that is operated by a 120V iVac Switch.
Since I upgraded the bandsaw to the DVR motor I can't use my iVac Tool
sensor (1st gen) because the trip point is below the amps required to power
the bandsaw motor controller so it never resets when the saw is turned off.
I use iVac with my 220V set up. I have it connected to by 2HP 220V DC, and use the remote to trigger it. I only have my DC connected to larger machines using 4” ducting and the router table.
I use my MIDI for the mitre saw, triggered off the tool.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I use my MIDI for the mitre saw, triggered off the tool.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Crazyraceguy
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Sorry, I assumed that they were talking about tool triggered, where a 110volt tool was making this happen.
The only 220v switches that I have seen are button type remotes.
The only 220v switches that I have seen are button type remotes.
Apparently they are safe. I have what is probably the same one you show except the color is light gray and it's a Craftsman. Could very well be made lovingly in the same factory across the wide Pacific as the one you show. It was $25 way back then and Craftsman has since stopped selling them.
11 years ago I took my Kapex out of the box I hooked up to this switch to turn on a Craftsman shop vac. It's worked fine all these years.
I wired in a 60amp sub box in my garage and it's plugged into 20A circuit. The other cord you see goes to a power strip where all my battery chargers are plugged in. I never thought about whether that's a good idea or not. But there've been no problems all these years.
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11 years ago I took my Kapex out of the box I hooked up to this switch to turn on a Craftsman shop vac. It's worked fine all these years.
I wired in a 60amp sub box in my garage and it's plugged into 20A circuit. The other cord you see goes to a power strip where all my battery chargers are plugged in. I never thought about whether that's a good idea or not. But there've been no problems all these years.
[attachimg=1]
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I have that same model switch from Craftsman [member=2018]fshanno[/member]. Currently using it with my Kreg Foreman and a small shop vac.
I bought it at least 20 years ago I believe and I've used it with one tool or another all this time.
Craftsman sure sold some junk in their time, but this switch wasn't one of them.
I bought it at least 20 years ago I believe and I've used it with one tool or another all this time.
Craftsman sure sold some junk in their time, but this switch wasn't one of them.
Crazyraceguy
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fshanno said:
The way that switch mounts to the outlet means that you are pulling both the Kapex and the shop vac off of the same circuit, plus a power strip for chargers? That seems like a lot. is it at by chance a 20 amp circuit?
The IVac unit that I used was equipped with 2 separate in-put plugs. That way the tool and vac are on different circuits....assuming that you actually have two circuits. It could run from just one on lower amp tools, but if the amp draw was high enough, it would keep you from tripping breakers by separating them.
