Are Festool drills Life Changing?

[iamnothim]

Hey gang-green,

I have a Milwaukee drill/driver set.
The driver is a  M12™ 1/4” Hex Impact Driver model 2450-20  Their spec shows 850 in. lbs torque.
The drill is an M12™ Cordless Lithium-Ion 3/8” Hammer Drill/Driver model 2411-20  Their spec shows 275 in. lbs torque and 1500 RPM.

If I were to purchase a Festool drill it would be the C15 ($460).  But it only has 221 in. lbs of torque.  That means I’d also need to buy a TI-15 ($350) to match the “spec” functions I currently have.  Grand total without accessories $810.  cough, cough

I use my impact driver more than my drill.  The M12 drill gets wimpy quickly with a 3/4” forstner bit.  There driver is fine.  Since I’m a just a hobbyist I’m not going to need an Eccentric chuck that often, but it would be nice to have.
 
If the C12 could accomplish both drilling and driving I might pull the trigger.  If it’s mushy as a driver I can't  justify buying both the C12 and the TI-15.

Thanks

 

[tbellemare]

If I were to purchase a Festool drill it would be the C15 ($460).  But it only has 221 in. lbs of torque.

Actually, the spec's say max torque in wood is 221 in lbs and in steel is 354 in lbs.

I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around that but I think the 354 of the 14.4V Festool would more likely equate with the 275 for the 12V Milwaukee.

What I'm missing is do you want a hammer drill also because even with the C 15 and TI 15 together, you are still missing the hammer drill functionality. I keep an older 18V Makita hammer drill around just because of that. I have the CXS, C 15, T 18, TI 15, and 18V hammer drill. I use them all.

Tom

 

[iamnothim]

Actually, the spec's say max torque in wood is 221 in lbs and in steel is 354 in lbs.

I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around that but I think the 354 of the 14.4V Festool would more likely equate with the 275 for the 12V Milwaukee.

What I'm missing is do you want a hammer drill also because even with the C 15 and TI 15 together, you are still missing the hammer drill functionality. I keep an older 18V Makita hammer drill around just because of that. I have the CXS, C 15, T 18, TI 15, and 18V hammer drill. I use them all.

I never use the "hammer drill" function of the Milwaukee drill,  I just drill.  I use the Milwaukee Driver for fasteners all the time.
When I need a hammer drill, I reach for a HAMMER DRILL, talk'n about the venerable Bosch SDS Bull Dog.

Looking for a compact drill that can drive 3" fasteners into studs or shorter fasteners into hardwood.  Also loosen nuts from blots.
Hope that clears things up.

EDIT:  I don't like clunky batteries at the bottom of the grip.  The Milwaukee batteries are compact.  Hence I'm looking at the "C" series

 

[amt]

Might want to check out the M12 fuel line up.  They are brushless and significantly more powerful than the previous models.

 

[vkumar]

If I were to purchase a Festool drill it would be the C15 ($460).  But it only has 221 in. lbs of torque.

Actually, the spec's say max torque in wood is 221 in lbs and in steel is 354 in lbs.

I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around that but I think the 354 of the 14.4V Festool would more likely equate with the 275 for the 12V Milwaukee.

What I'm missing is do you want a hammer drill also because even with the C 15 and TI 15 together, you are still missing the hammer drill functionality. I keep an older 18V Makita hammer drill around just because of that. I have the CXS, C 15, T 18, TI 15, and 18V hammer drill. I use them all.

Tom

Tom when does one use  hammer drill and when an impact drill? Ignorant minds want to know.

 

[tbellemare]

I generally work alone and don't own a nail gun so I use 3 to 3.5 inch screws for framing normally. I have used my previous model, NiCD C12 with no issues. I sold it when the new models came out and now have the C 15 and T 18 for such tasks. Both work fine. With all three, you can get a pretty uncomfortable wrist twist if you're not careful. When framing, I tend to use the C drills because they are so much better one-handed and my other hand is usually preoccupied. These drills are up to the task...

Tom

 

[tbellemare]

Tom when does one use  hammer drill and when an impact drill? Ignorant minds want to know.

A hammer drill is used to drill into something hard, like masonry or concrete. It hammers axially.

An impact driver is used for tough fasteners. It hammers rotationally.

Tom

 

[iamnothim]

I generally work alone and don't own a nail gun so I use 3 to 3.5 inch screws for framing normally. I have used my previous model, NiCD C12 with no issues. I sold it when the new models came out and now have the C 15 and T 18 for such tasks. Both work fine. With all three, you can get a pretty uncomfortable wrist twist if you're not careful. When framing, I tend to use the C drills because they are so much better one-handed and my other hand is usually preoccupied. These drills are up to the task...

Tom

The rub is, can I get buy and have the same functionality without the T-18?  I'd like to have one tool.

As AMT posted the M12 Fuel kit is nice and the set is under $200.  But I'm dumb enough to pay three times as much (with the installer kit) because it's green.

 

[tbellemare]

The C 15 is more than enough for what you're described unless you just like to use an impact driver.

Tom

 

[iamnothim]

I had not read the Ti-18 specs until just now.  I didn't know it was a drill as well as an impact driver.
Can I get by with the drill function.

Are there any downsides?

 

[iamnothim]

The C 15 is more than enough for what you're described unless you just like to use an impact driver.

Tom

I find the Impact function is great for removing fastener.  That's why I never use my drill for fasteners....

 

[tbellemare]

I think the biggest downside is you loose the clutch. It is a good drill with variable speed. The impact function doesn't kick in until a torque threshold is detected and it can be defeated altogether with the adapter.

The adapter, which defeats the impact, is required for the special chucks (right angle, eccentric, depth stop) so that the impact can't bang them up.

I agree that the impact function is great for easy fastening/unfastening. I prefer to use a drill unless I need more torque or impact. I don't like the noise. To me, it's a tradeoff - more noise or more work?

Tom

 

[iamnothim]

Do they still make the C 12?

 

[tbellemare]

No, it was recently discontinued.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

I use my T-15 for everything beyond what the CSX will do.

I tested the T-15 (before I purchased it) by burying an 18" long 1-1/8" ship auger into a block of hard maple, I had the 90º head on the drill. Wanted to make sure it would drill studs to run EMT. Weakest part of the set up was Kreg holding the block a maple, ended up clamping the block to an MFT to finish the drilling.

I now despise the sound of an impact. To many years listening to them.

Tom

 

[iamnothim]

I use my T-15 for everything beyond what the CSX will do.

I tested the T-15 (before I purchased it) by burying an 18" long 1-1/8" ship auger into a block of hard maple, I had the 90º head on the drill. Wanted to make sure it would drill studs to run EMT. Weakest part of the set up was Kreg holding the block a maple, ended up clamping the block to an MFT to finish the drilling.

I now despise the sound of an impact. To many years listening to them.

Tom

Just read the specs on the T=15.  The web page didn't indicate that it comes with a Systainer.  Does it?

 

[tjbnwi]

Do they still make the C 12?

If you're thinning about a C-12, get the CSX-that is a great drill.

Tom

 

[tbellemare]

All Festool drill/drivers sold in NA come with systainers.

Tom

 

[iamnothim]

Do they still make the C 12?

If you're thinning about a C-12, get the CSX-that is a great drill.

Tom

I discounted it because of the whole "brushless motor" thing....

Thanks for all the input guys..

 

[tjbnwi]

I use my T-15 for everything beyond what the CSX will do.

I tested the T-15 (before I purchased it) by burying an 18" long 1-1/8" ship auger into a block of hard maple, I had the 90º head on the drill. Wanted to make sure it would drill studs to run EMT. Weakest part of the set up was Kreg holding the block a maple, ended up clamping the block to an MFT to finish the drilling.

I now despise the sound of an impact. To many years listening to them.

Tom

Just read the specs on the T=15.   The web page didn't indicate that it comes with a Systainer.  Does it?

Mine came with the attic Systainer, I purchased the set with all of the heads. It's about 4 years old.

Tom