Ash Pedestal Table

[Rutabagared]

Ash pedestal table built last fall/winter - companion of the sideboard I recently posted here.  Also built for my daughter.  Inspired by a David Lamb piece in a recent issue of Fine Woodworking and an outdoor resin table a spied in an abandoned lot. . . [attachimg=1]View attachment 2[attachimg=2]

Currently living in my daughter’s childhood bedroom along with a set of Ash chairs (evidenced by the doll wallpaper border and peeled wallpaper patch . . . toddlers like to pick and peel at stuff – now it’s destined for her own place – where does the time go). 

[attachimg=3]

 

[Rutabagared]

I designed it in Fusion 360 based on napkin sketches and in-process changes when mocking up.  Fusion 360 is a challenge at first.  But like most things just takes practice.  I cannot draw worth a lick.  So I rarely sketch now and just skip directly to designing with it.

Top layout and glue-up. . . [attachimg=1][attachimg=2]

 

[Rutabagared]

Top machining.  Template is ¾ MDF. . . messy business. . . [attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
In a hurry routing the top and got some nasty tear out  Fingers crossed it will be removed when profiling.

I’ve been incorporating large round overs and oval shapes in my pieces – love the Whiteside oval profiles (1476, 1478) and the Whiteside bits in general.  They leave a nearly flawless finish, greatly reducing subsequent sanding. [attachimg=3]

Tear out removed.

[attachimg=4]

 

[Rutabagared]

On to the base.  The feet and cleat assembly at the top receive half laps.[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]

 

[Rutabagared]

Four uprights will be attached with Dominos to these assemblies.  Due to the offset, it is difficult to rely on using the fenced height adjustment from opposite sides to ensure proper fit.  So I resort to a “Domi-Shelf”.  I cut a row of mortises in the work pieces, then use a piece of scrap with the domino mortises to register into this row, using the base as a reference.

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]

 

[Michael Kellough]

Another beautiful way to showcase that beautiful wood!

Thanks for all the photos.

I’m glad the Whiteside profile bit saved the day but you might want to buy one of the new Woodpecker spiral compression bits.

 

[Rutabagared]

Another beautiful way to showcase that beautiful wood!

Thanks for all the photos.

I’m glad the Whiteside profile bit saved the day but you might want to buy one of the new Woodpecker spiral compression bits.

Thank you for the kind words.  Funny you mentioned those bits.  I've been on the fence about them for a while.  Still haven't pulled the trigger.

 

[Rutabagared]

Top cleat assembly and foot assembly mock-up.  The curve profiles on the end have been rough cut.  These profiles will be rebated.  The saw kerfs will serve as gauges when smoothing.

View attachment 1[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]

Base dry fit.

[attachimg=3]

 

[Rutabagared]

Rebates cut on the curved ends.  A lot of work to smooth them.  But work that I find enjoyable.  LN and Iwasaki files are a pleasure to use.

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3][attachimg=4]

 

[Rutabagared]

The small detail of relieving the shoulders on the foot rebate took most of a Saturday with Iwasaki files and abrasive sheets.  But I believe the results are worth it in the end. . . certainly an improvement over square.

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]

 

[Michael Kellough]

We need a pic of the underside the finished table.

That’s lot of precision mortising!

 

[Rutabagared]

Uprights profiled and the base is ready for glue-up.  When glue-ups involve this many dominos, I preglue them into one side of the joint the previous day.  This one required some serious persuasion with a mallet.

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]

 

[Rutabagared]

Finish applied.  I sprayed a combination of 4 or 5 coats of Target EM7000HBL laquer and and EM8000 conversion varnish.  I'm impressed with their ease of application, durability and appearance.  I wouldn't use the laquer in areas intended for high wear.  Hence the conversion varnish, which I find very durable.

I'm in no hurry so I’ll allow them to cure for several days before attaching the top.
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]

 

[Rutabagared]

We need a pic of the underside the finished table.

That’s lot of precision mortising!

Below are pictures of the uprights and cleat assemblies with their matching mortises.[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]

 

[Rutabagared]

Buttons for attaching the top . . . what’s worth doing is worth over-doing. . .

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]

 

[Rutabagared]

Profile of feet inspired by the columns of a house in my neighboorhood [attachimg=3]

If I had it to do over, I would reduce the thickness of the uprights supporting the top – just a bit too chunky for me. 

 

[rvieceli]

Very nice. Great documentation as well.

Ron

 

[Rutabagared]

Very nice. Great documentation as well.

Ron

Thank you.

 

[squall_line]

So I resort to a “Domi-Shelf”.  I cut a row of mortises in the work pieces, then use a piece of scrap with the domino mortises to register into this row, using the base as a reference.

This is a very clever way of making the second row of mortises!  I need to file this away in my brain pan for later.

 

[Rutabagared]

So I resort to a “Domi-Shelf”.  I cut a row of mortises in the work pieces, then use a piece of scrap with the domino mortises to register into this row, using the base as a reference.

This is a very clever way of making the second row of mortises!  I need to file this away in my brain pan for later.

Thank you.  I've used this several times with success.