At what point is it better to replace than repair?

[MGB]

why not cut new wedges for your stairs? Pl any voids in the stringers and screw everything down.

Its going to be a time consuming fitting new stringers to an old staircase. In the end it could possibly be the same amount of labor as pulling the old stairs. The benefit to a new set is youd have engineered treads that wont cup. Plus itll be more solid than any repair would be.

I vote for covering the old flooring as well. If youre able to salvage the staircase you could pad the last few treads up. A variance of up to 5/16 is allowed by code. You could have a 1/8" increase on riser height over a few steps to make everything marry up.

 

[mrFinpgh]

So here's the breakdown on riser heights, from the bottom to the top - rounded to the nearest 8th.

8"
7.675"
8.125"
8.125"
7.875"
8"
8"
7.875"
8"
8.25"
7.875"
8"
8.625"

Lots of variation already.  The last one is the step up to the 2nd floor with the laminate floated over the old linoleum.  I suspect some of the other variation is from the missing wedges.

MGB : I'm not sure I completely followed your question, about why I wouldn't cut new wedges for the stairs.  Wouldn't I need to get at the back of them to use wedges? 

I wasn't planning on removing the stringers.  I was expecting that I'd need to pull the old treads and risers out and replacing them with something new and unsplit or cracked.

Can you say more about engineered treads?  That sounds like a promising direction to look into.  Would this be something I'd have to cap with a laminate of some kind?

Thanks,
Adam

 

[leakyroof]

Cork laminate right over it. They're doing some really nice feeling and looking cork. It's a nicer feel under your feet AND much more pet friendly. It's easier to relate too

But, he has odor still lingering at times. Do you think the odor can't sneak past the overlay of the Cork Laminate if he went that route?  [blink]
To me, that would be the worst. You've added another layer on top of damaged, urine stained wood and now have that urine odor at times.
Your thoughts on this?

 

[mrFinpgh]

Thankfully, there are no odors with the floors.

I don't know if perhaps I've exaggerated their condition.  I think some parts are rough.. others are just old. 

I actually want to experiment with some oxalic acid on it sometime.  Last summer I was able to completely remove significant water damage to a mahogany end table with it.  It took about 4 applications, but the wood ended up looking quite nice and consistent. If it worked out, the monocoat should be easy to touch up.  Assuming, that is, the bleach doesn't interfere with anything else.

-Adam

 

[MGB]

MGB : I'm not sure I completely followed your question, about why I wouldn't cut new wedges for the stairs.  Wouldn't I need to get at the back of them to use wedges? 

I wasn't planning on removing the stringers.  I was expecting that I'd need to pull the old treads and risers out and replacing them with something new and unsplit or cracked.

Can you say more about engineered treads?  That sounds like a promising direction to look into.  Would this be something I'd have to cap with a laminate of some kind?

Thanks,
Adam

My misunderstanding. I missed the part about the stairs only being partial access.

An engineered tread would be 1" osb or ply. No cupping or cracking. You would then cover with carpet or laminate/hardwood.

As far as replacing treads/risers only. If it's a housed stringer like I'm gathering. It would be nearly impossible. Here's an example of how I believe your stairs are built.

 

[leakyroof]

Thankfully, there are no odors with the floors.

I don't know if perhaps I've exaggerated their condition.  I think some parts are rough.. others are just old. 

I actually want to experiment with some oxalic acid on it sometime.  Last summer I was able to completely remove significant water damage to a mahogany end table with it.  It took about 4 applications, but the wood ended up looking quite nice and consistent. If it worked out, the monocoat should be easy to touch up.  Assuming, that is, the bleach doesn't interfere with anything else.

-Adam

  Sorry, I thought you had both stains and odor since you said things were oozing at times out of sections of the floor... [embarassed]

 

[Holmz]

I always figure out the answer after the fact... It is usually cheaper "in time" to replace.

 

[mrFinpgh]

I hear you, Holmz.

For me, I think it comes down to two things with the floor:

1. Not wanting to give up on something.
2. Wanting to  'win' at my game of making the house worth more than I put into it.  I don't know if that's mathematically probable anymore (too many surprises). 

-Adam

 

[mrFinpgh]

My misunderstanding. I missed the part about the stairs only being partial access.

An engineered tread would be 1" osb or ply. No cupping or cracking. You would then cover with carpet or laminate/hardwood.

As far as replacing treads/risers only. If it's a housed stringer like I'm gathering. It would be nearly impossible. Here's an example of how I believe your stairs are built.

That's exactly right - it's a housed stringer.  Initially, I was thinking that I would add 2x blocking material to the stringers to provide more surface for the tread to rest on.  I'm looking at those wedges and wondering if there is a way to get those in without access to the back of the staircase.  If I've removed all of the treads/risers, it seems like I should be able to either work up or down and knock wedges in?

-Adam