Attaching Face Frame with Domino

UncleJoe

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Oct 3, 2011
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I did a search and could not find what I wanted and I am pretty sure it is there but I just can't find it. I am looking for a video tutorial on how to use a domino to attach a face frame to a cabinet. I know how to use a domino to make the face frame and in the past I have always used Pocket holes to attach the face frame to the cabinet but this project need a different method as it will be seen from all sides.

I am pretty sure there is a video on this but I can't find it. I am looking for an easy and accurate way to make sure everything is mounted flush with the outside edges.

Thanks for your help
 
I built some face frame bookcases attaching the face with Dominos.

It was darn difficult as the frame and face had to fit perfectly so that the reference surfaces were flush.

I did one side and did a dry fit to see if the other 3 sides would line up. Then did a second side, etc, until all 4 sides were Dominoed.

The glue-up was difficult as well as there were a lot of tenons involved.

Maybe someone will have a better way than what I did.
 
If you try to attach more than two sides with slip tenons it will be hard to line things up.  If I wanted to do it and had a Domino, I would do two sides first and cut at most mortises in the frame and use them to mark the position for the mortises in the cabinet boxes.  Easier way would be to use nails (even pin nails) to hold them until the glue dries. 
 
Domino your face frame, build the box one side at a time to fit the frame Dominos. You can disassemble the entire system, glue up and be certain it all fits back together. Other option is to build the box, then make up the frame. I prefer the first method, its the face frame that has to fit the space.

Tom
 
Do you have a biscuit joiner? I know the mere suggestion is blasphemy but I believe it would be a lot easier to attach with biscuits and probably just as strong; anyway strong enough once glued together. The biscuits would be completely hidden just as the Dominos would be. I believe that Norm used pocket holes to make the face frames and biscuits to mount the face frames on the cabinet in a show many years ago. I was surprised at the time that Norm would do that but he did and was very clear that this was a great way to make cabinets.
 
I found it really easy.  I did mine before assemble.  The corners are all on the tight setting and for inside dominos I always open up the width. 

Sorry no video and these are the only pictures I have,  but you can see the tight joints and perfect alignment. 

Untitled by thedude306, on Flickr

Untitled by thedude306, on Flickr

Untitled by thedude306, on Flickr

Untitled by thedude306, on Flickr

Untitled by thedude306, on Flickr

Untitled by thedude306, on Flickr

Untitled by thedude306, on Flickr
 
I too didn't find it to be too hard.  It is how I will always attach face frames in the future.  I love how it flushes up the frame on the outside edge.  My method is making the face frame after the carcase has been built.

The only trick is to really measure height and width when you have the carcase built, so you can make your face frame to the correct dimensions.  I actually like to join the face frame together with Dominos as well, since I can dry fit first and make sure the frame will be flush on all edges before I commit to domino locations on the inside of the face frame for attaching to carcase.

Good luck.  After playing with it, it becomes pretty intuitive.
 
I am finding I like making the face frame first.  Less shop space used and I can make to fit the cabinet side easier then I can the face frame side.  The first time I did it that way I wasn't a fan but after a few goes it is now how I am going to to do it. 
 
grbmds said:
Do you have a biscuit joiner? I know the mere suggestion is blasphemy but I believe it would be a lot easier to attach with biscuits and probably just as strong; anyway strong enough once glued together. The biscuits would be completely hidden just as the Dominos would be. I believe that Norm used pocket holes to make the face frames and biscuits to mount the face frames on the cabinet in a show many years ago. I was surprised at the time that Norm would do that but he did and was very clear that this was a great way to make cabinets.

Agreed.  I love my Domino, but there are still times when a biscuit will also work. 
 
I use the Domiplate on the Domino to attach the face frames to carcass.  Start with the plate on the 3/4" side (for 3/4 carcass) and mill the slots in the carcass.  Set the face frame on carcass and find (or make) a spacer that flushes the inside of the carcass to the inside of the face frame.  I then insert two of those spacers between the Domiplate and Domino and mill the slot into the back of the face frame.  Sometimes my spacers are playing cards, washers, wood scraps, etc.  Sometimes I run some wood through the planer and make the spacer.  Making the slots in face frame wider can give you enough play if one or the other is a little out of square.
 
I remember during the kitchen cabinet class at Festool Las Vegas Steve gave an easy demonstration on it. You build your box to whatever size you want. Then you calculate your "reveal" . Bottom piece was usually flush with the inside of the cabinet and the side piece. The side reveals should be for ease of calculation 2.5, 4, 8, 10 mm. Bottom piece is inside measurement minus reveal x 2.

If you reference from the inside of your cabinet (20mm plywood), you can domino you bottom face frame from the inside of the frame. If you want an 8mm reveal of the sides, you still plunge you cabinet at 20mm setting on your domino and they you change the plate setting to 36mm and then plunge your sides referring from the inside of your face frame. If I remember correctly all of the cabinets plunges where on the tight setting and the face frames where on size up so you can fit it perfectly.

I am doing this from memory but it was a very quick process and logical.
 
I know one trick that helps speed things up for me.  Maybe it's obvious and everybody does it this way.  I lay the case on it's back and clamp the face frame upside down to the case.  This supports the fac eframe for punching the mortises and allows unobstructed access to plunge registering to either side of the rails and stiles as needed.
 
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