Attaching paint-grade baseboard with silicone?

mike1967

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Nov 17, 2007
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Today I installed a few small pieces of baseboard in a bathroom.  I was trimming out a wall with a vanity and shelving unit, and the pieces fit between these things.

Because the pieces were so small I cut them to size, primed them, two-coated them, and then glued them to the wall with white silicone that I happened to have used to glue the corian sink to the vanity. 

On account of the glue there were no nail holes, the painting was done on a bench without anyone being hunched over, the finish is really nice, etc.

This makes me wonder if siliconing a larger piece of baseboard would work rather than attaching it using 15ga nails, which is what I normally do.  If I am doing the install and painting of trim, I do not have to worry about coordination.  I realize that this puts a premium on the baseboard fitting perfectly (I could not, say, force some baseboard in place and then shoot 15ga nails to hold it) but I am happy to spend time on this rather than filling nail holes, sanding spackle, etc.

I wonder about the durability of this approach.  For the small pieces I installed today I am not particularly concerned as they will not get kicked and are really out of the way. 

Thoughts on this?

Mike

 
Silicone works great on small pieces. I've used it on many occasion. I have also used it on larger pieces when I knew I would be taking the piece off in the near future for various reasons. It works pretty well overall. Wall needs to be straight though. Hasn't worked well for outside corners though. Overall I wouldn't do it for regular room runs. A nice pinner doesn't make for that much touch-up work.
 
in that case i would not use silicone, Using some thing like a ms polymer on the other hand is perfectly fine. or a polyurathane based adhesive,
 
Interesting translations,
Baseboard - trim that runs along the 'base' of the wall at the floor. Baseshoe - is a slightly smaller and unequal sided version of quarter round. (hope you know what quarter round is otherwise I'm just blabbing more nonsense)
Casing- the trim that goes around the doors/windows on the face of the wall
Interesting use of skirt board. Someone says skirt board to me and I think of the finished board that is attached on the outside of a stair stringer on an open set of nice interior stairs.
You Europeans really need to learn how to speak proper English some day  [poke]
 
Holzhacker said:
Interesting translations,
Baseboard - trim that runs along the 'base' of the wall at the floor. Baseshoe - is a slightly smaller and unequal sided version of quarter round. (hope you know what quarter round is otherwise I'm just blabbing more nonsense)
Casing- the trim that goes around the doors/windows on the face of the wall
Interesting use of skirt board. Someone says skirt board to me and I think of the finished board that is attached on the outside of a stair stringer on an open set of nice interior stairs.
You Europeans really need to learn how to speak proper English some day  [poke]

so

baseboard-skirting board
baseshoe - bit like 45mm bullnose?
quarteround- quadrant
casing- architrave
frame to us is external door frame, casing and linings are internal frames

speak english properly? you lot ought to learn how to spell it, you omitted u from half the words, colour and mould. and swaping s' for z' [poke] [off topic] [oops]
 
Deansocial said:
Holzhacker said:
Interesting translations,
Baseboard - trim that runs along the 'base' of the wall at the floor. Baseshoe - is a slightly smaller and unequal sided version of quarter round. (hope you know what quarter round is otherwise I'm just blabbing more nonsense)
Casing- the trim that goes around the doors/windows on the face of the wall
Interesting use of skirt board. Someone says skirt board to me and I think of the finished board that is attached on the outside of a stair stringer on an open set of nice interior stairs.
You Europeans really need to learn how to speak proper English some day  [poke]

so

baseboard-skirting board
baseshoe - bit like 45mm bullnose?
quarteround- quadrant
casing- architrave
frame to us is external door frame, casing and linings are internal frames

speak english properly? you lot ought to learn how to spell it, you omitted u from half the words, colour and mould. and swaping s' for z' [poke] [off topic] [oops]

Funny my 8 year old just had a spelling test and got color wrong, he spelled it colour. Every word you spelled with the u comes up wrong in spell check and swaping is swapping. Mould as Crown Mould is spelled with a "u" in the US(but its not in spell check), mold like fungus has no u.

I think you need to update your dictionary to 2010!

If you look in the dictionary the "u" words are defined as British variants, its not the other way around.  :)
 
i use the oxford English dictionary, oh you lot need to learn how to say and spell aluminium properly  [poke] [poke] [poke]
 
I was taught when doing my apprentice to put skirting on with just FOAM  I would make loads of short blocks like  2 x 1 soft wood about 200 long and all have a nail in them!

I would foam the wall and skirting and from one end to the other I would push the skirting(baseboard) to the wall keeping the rest of the skirting away from the wall untill I had it wedged against the wall with the blocks.

I would have one flat on the floor and one angled up keeping the top in.

The reason why I worked from one end making sure the skirting on the other end didnt come in contact until I was ready is because once foam gets squeezed and the skirting comes away again its like it disappears and it wont stick the skirting aswell.

I have been to the house I first did this foaming technique on it was done on the entire house top to bottom which was 5 years ago and the skirting is still on solid when you kick it it feels solid so I know it works.

I personally still like to use nails and I would normally use my Dewalt pin nailer 50mm and I would angle the nails away from each next to each other creating dovetail affect.

Like mentioned above you hardly see the pins.

I have done jobs where I was asked they wanted it screwing just makes the job take so much longer and you then have to either use wooden pegs or filler.

Ofcorse I cant use the no nails technique if the skirting is done on a finished flooring job as I can not nail into the floor. (if its a concrete floor the nails hold enough till the foam goes off)  Like mentioned unless the wall are perfect straight  which is never you can not use no nails or no wedge got to be one or the other. (defuntly if your using foam because it expands so would push the skirting away from the wall)  I have used many adhesives like grip fill or pink grip and many other but

1. They dont like damp wall unlike foam does!
2. They are thick so sometimes prevent you from gettin the skirting right up to the wall.
3. Takes longer to apply and sometimes forms a skin before you get to fix it to the wall so you have the move the skifting around to break the skin.
4. Doesnt cover the entire area of the skirting so skirting defuntly the double moulded skirting (two different moulds one each side.) will some times warp over time.
5. I have remove a few skirtings which were fixed with adhesive and came off easily but foam it takes the plaster with it.
 
you omitted u from half the words, colour and mould

Are ya'll French?

Je m'appelle, Tom Bellemare.

EDIT: 'changed, "Are you all French?" to "Are ya'll French" - it's a local thing...
 
[big grin]
The nice thing about using silicone on small pieces is that you can get them off with minimal to no damage. Slide a short-knife in between the trim and wall and the trim will usually pop off. This comes in handy around cabinetry.
Short-knife - 3"- 6" flat metal spatula type blade with handle typically used for drywall taping or plastering
Broad knife - same thing, just bigger 8"-24"
Crazy local trade lingos
 
jmbfestool said:
I was taught when doing my apprentice to put skirting on with just FOAM  I would make loads of short blocks like  2 x 1 soft wood about 200 long and all have a nail in them!

I would foam the wall and skirting and from one end to the other I would push the skirting(baseboard) to the wall keeping the rest of the skirting away from the wall untill I had it wedged against the wall with the blocks.

I would have one flat on the floor and one angled up keeping the top in.

The reason why I worked from one end making sure the skirting on the other end didnt come in contact until I was ready is because once foam gets squeezed and the skirting comes away again its like it disappears and it wont stick the skirting aswell.

I have been to the house I first did this foaming technique on it was done on the entire house top to bottom which was 5 years ago and the skirting is still on solid when you kick it it feels solid so I know it works.

I personally still like to use nails and I would normally use my Dewalt pin nailer 50mm and I would angle the nails away from each next to each other creating dovetail affect.

Like mentioned above you hardly see the pins.

I have done jobs where I was asked they wanted it screwing just makes the job take so much longer and you then have to either use wooden pegs or filler.

Ofcorse I cant use the no nails technique if the skirting is done on a finished flooring job as I can not nail into the floor. (if its a concrete floor the nails hold enough till the foam goes off)  Like mentioned unless the wall are perfect straight  which is never you can not use no nails or no wedge got to be one or the other. (defuntly if your using foam because it expands so would push the skirting away from the wall)  I have used many adhesives like grip fill or pink grip and many other but

1. They dont like damp wall unlike foam does!
2. They are thick so sometimes prevent you from gettin the skirting right up to the wall.
3. Takes longer to apply and sometimes forms a skin before you get to fix it to the wall so you have the move the skifting around to break the skin.
4. Doesnt cover the entire area of the skirting so skirting defuntly the double moulded skirting (two different moulds one each side.) will some times warp over time.
5. I have remove a few skirtings which were fixed with adhesive and came off easily but foam it takes the plaster with it.

gripfill etc are pants, you need something like sikaflex ebt, i stuck a 4x2 frame to a wall 1mx.9m to create a stand off for a white board and pulled it off the next day because it was too high, it tore plaster off every where it had adhesive. its it almost the same as sika t53? flooring adhesive. we buy it buy he pallet now (90 tube in a pallet)
 
I just made a picture just in case I didn't make sense what I said above because I am a bit thick at spelling and gramma and explaining lol.

[attachimg=#]

Deansocial I agree its shit thats why I dont use it and many other types of adhesive I used which is similar but softer dont know the names its just what the companys supply I just use it and realise it RUBBISH. The thing is using a gun and tube is very slow to apply thats why I rather use foam its good at gap filling I always go along the bottom of the board because plaster boards are normally about 1 or 2 inch from the ground.  If you was to use adhesive you would use 10 tubes on one length of skirting to fill.

We had had these silly tests  where this company blocks the front door leaving a hole and put a large fan on and suck the air out of the house. Now the house I did all the skirting on NON of the carpet came up because air gets drawn from under the skirting board from behind the plasterboards and comes up under the carpet and the carpet hovers.  The house done with just adhesive the carpet and Lino was floating because this means draft comes from under the skirting so not only does foam is good gap filler and sticks well and is quick it also insulates the house a little bit more.

JMB

 
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