Back splash large format tiles

[Packard]

I had not thought of glass.  I used to make glass mats for pictures when I had my picture framing business.  I is pretty straightforward work.  The main thing you had to be careful of is the painted side can be very easily scratched as the paint does not make a really strong bond to the glass.

I still have my wall-mounted glass cutter—I think it has a 48” capacity.  I don’t know the reason for the tempering.  We hang mirrors that large all the time and those are glass without tempering. 

I will think about it, but I kind of had a marble look in mind. 

There are places that will make porcelain panels to template.  Another possibility.  But I think 24” x 24” tile will work best for me. I recently did a tub to ceiling bathtub surround and that went well (but more difficult than, say, subway tiles). 

I’m sure a professional would be more efficient.  Every tile that required cuts that could not be made with a score and snap tile cutter, were templated.  An extra step and time consuming.  But no mistake cuts and no ruined tiles thrown in the trash. 

I am almost finished with the cabinets.  The back splash is next, and then the floors.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Packard

 

[squall_line]

That glass backsplash reminds me of a dry erase sheet hanging on a wall in an office or as the wall of a cubicle.

As far as tempering, it's probably something to do with proximity to heavy objects and hands.  I know that I wouldn't want a piece of plate glass as a backsplash in my house once my kids are able to reach the counter and move pots and pans around.

 

[afish]

you can paint the back side whatever color you want. some people do vinyl graphics with different prints too. Thats not for me but to each their own. Not sure if you have ever tried breaking 3/8+ tempered glass but that stuff is pretty tough.  We have had a crackle glass (3 layers of 1/4" glass sheets with the middle sheet is shattered) table top for 10 years or so with kids that are now in their early twenties so it has seen a lot of oopses, drops, etc. with no issues.  Its not for everyone and really only goes with contemporary/modern style but I have no concern of durability.

 

[squall_line]

you can paint the back side whatever color you want. some people do vinyl graphics with different prints too. Thats not for me but to each their own. Not sure if you have ever tried breaking 3/8+ tempered glass but that stuff is pretty tough.  We have had a crackle glass (3 layers of 1/4" glass sheets with the middle sheet is shattered) table top for 10 years or so with kids that are now in their early twenties so it has seen a lot of oopses, drops, etc. with no issues.  Its not for everyone and really only goes with contemporary/modern style but I have no concern of durability.

I have no concern of durability if it's a piece that's designed for what it's used for.  I was just pointing out that the tempering may in fact be a code compliance issue compared to a sheet of plate glass.

 

[Packard]

I will see if Lowes will cut the tile.  The identical color/pattern is available in 12” x 12”; 12” x 24”; 24” x 24” and 24” x 48”.

If they can cut the largest tile to 17” x 48”, I will have just two grout lines.  I used 1/8 spacing for the 24” x 24” I used for the tub surround.  I expect the same will work with the larger tile.

 

[rst]

From a commercial glazier point of view, black spandrel glass is tempered and the black is clean through.  It's used often in commercial glazing, only drawback would be expense.

 

[Packard]

My brain cannot process why glass that has a painted back surface would have to be tempered, when mirrors, which are just sheets of glass with a coated back surface, would not. 

I’ve been in homes where entire walls have been covered with large sheets of mirrors. 

I know that codes change.  The windows in my house are not to code.  They run from 8” above the floor to 8” from the ceiling.  Current code requires tempered glass for windows that start that low. 

But I cannot think of any reason code would change for back splashes. 

By the way, the process of painting the rear of glass is simple. 

Clean the glass well, and rinse with water after. 
Dry the glass.
Spray with aerosol enamel in light coats until opaque.  It takes a surprising amount to reach opaqueness. 
Be careful not to scratch the finish.
Install.

For the “glass mat” I would mask off the picture area.  Wait for the paint to dry.  Use a fresh utility knife blade and lightly score where the masking tape will be pulled up.  Otherwise it will make a mess of the edges.

But, if I can get Lowes to saw the tiles to 48” x 17”, that is how I will probably go.

Thanks for the replies.

Packard

 

[xedos]

But, if I can get Lowes to saw the tiles to 48” x 17”, that is how I will probably go.

Don't waste your time, they don't have that ability/capacity.

 

[Lincoln]

Glass splashbacks continue to be popular down here in Aus. They are always spray finished though. There are also a number of acrylic options now, which are cheaper and you can cut/drill etc with woodworking gear. Hafele have a good range.

 

[Packard]

Glass splashbacks continue to be popular down here in Aus. They are always spray finished though. There are also a number of acrylic options now, which are cheaper and you can cut/drill etc with woodworking gear. Hafele have a good range.

Backsplashes get splashed upon and require frequent wipe downs.  I think acrylic would be a shortsighted savings as after a while minute scratches would mar the effect. Perhaps acceptable it it has an anti-scratch coating like on eyeglasses.  But that would drive the price up to—perhaps more than glass.

I am amazed at some of the backsplash materials choices that I see on HGTV shows.  Brick looks great, but is porous and impossible to clean. I’ve seen white stacked stone used too.  Not only is it impossible to clean the stone, but also the gaps.

 

[Packard]

I have a wall mounted Fletcher glass cutter which will make 48” cuts.  Yesterday I tried to cut porcelain tile with it.  I made 5 successive scores on the same line and could not make a clean break.

 

[afish]

Glass splashbacks continue to be popular down here in Aus. They are always spray finished though. There are also a number of acrylic options now, which are cheaper and you can cut/drill etc with woodworking gear. Hafele have a good range.

Backsplashes get splashed upon and require frequent wipe downs.  I think acrylic would be a shortsighted savings as after a while minute scratches would mar the effect. Perhaps acceptable it it has an anti-scratch coating like on eyeglasses.  But that would drive the price up to—perhaps more than glass.

I am amazed at some of the backsplash materials choices that I see on HGTV shows.  Brick looks great, but is porous and impossible to clean. I’ve seen white stacked stone used too.  Not only is it impossible to clean the stone, but also the gaps.

agree with everything said. Acrylic would get scuffed and dull over time. That white stone looks like a nightmare. grease and oil splatter would have it stained in short order.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I wouldn't want something like those bricks on a wall let alone a splashback! That's the one thing you learn with having kids, everything you do you first work out the "acquired grime" ratio aspect, and then work on the worst case scenario!

 

[Packard]

Well, just get out the pressure washer and let it rip. [big grin]

I do wonder if one of those “dry steam” units would work.  They super-heat the steam to 285 to 315 degrees F.  It is so hot that the water evaporates instantly.  Thus the “dry” part.  You do have to wipe off the dirt immediately followed the dry steam.

By why bother?  Go with something you can clean (hopefully with a minimum amount of grout lines).