Baseboard, meet base cabinet

JoDo

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As much as I love this look, what's the correct way to do/terminate this? Any pictures of the proper method would be greatly appreciated.

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mastercabman said:
Is that the door/drawer of the cabinet?

It is, yes. It's the base cabinet/kickboard in the pic. The door [barely] clears the baseboard because of the giant notch.
 
Well, the cabinet would either have a filler strip on the side so that the door will clear the trim, special hinges could be used if available, or the trim should have been specified to be no higher than the bottom of the door.

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
Well, the cabinet would either have a filler strip on the side so that the door will clear the trim, special hinges could be used if available, or the trim should have been specified to be no higher than the bottom of the door.

Regarding the skills of the person who hacked away at the baseboard in the picture -  [eek]

Peter

All of those options make sense. Thanks for the quick reply. The "craftsmanship" of the work in the kitchen makes me twitch when I see it. However, it's an old rental property that I am not sinking a dime into, and the tenants are very happy as is. Everytime I visit the property the little things like this just stare at me. I get in and out before I start ripping stuff out.

(The original question was based on a general inquiry for future work and not something that I'm going to remedy in this situation).
 
I removed my eek comment before reading your reply.  That was unlike me.  But it is ugly.

In a situation like this you could open the door up against the wall.  Make a mark.  Miter the piece or trim coming towards the cabinet so that the next piece would point down.  Rip a piece of trim so that fits under the door.  Fit that going towards the other trim and intersect the miters.  Imagine stepping the trim down.  You will need to cut the point off the bottom miter on the piece going down. 

In your situation in the rental house this might be an alternative.

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
I removed my eek comment before reading your reply.  That was unlike me.  But it is ugly.

In a situation like this you could open the door up against the wall.  Make a mark.  Miter the piece or trim coming towards the cabinet so that the next piece would point down.  Rip a piece of trim so that fits under the door.  Fit that going towards the other trim and intersect the miters.  Imagine stepping the trim down.  You will need to cut the point off the bottom miter on the piece going down. 

In your situation in the rental house this might be an alternative.

Peter

Ugly it is...for sure. When/if I'm in between tenants I'll give the above method a try. I have plenty of scrap baseboard that'll more than be enough for this sole trimmed wall (small galley kitchen).
 
That's just downright butt-ugly.  There's no nice way to put it.  If you can't slip in a filler to the left, I'd suggest either raising the cabinet or changing the baseboard to a lower height.  If you're careful, you could possibly remove the existing baseboard and rip it down (except for that gawd-awful notched piece).  YUK!!! 

 
Trim the baseboard even with the notch. Install toe kick material on the wall in place of the baseboard.

Tom
 
If it really drives you crazy, try swapping out the hinges on the cabinet to "thick door hinges". The base board could be very close to the door and you'd still have clearance.  The proper install would have at least a 1" filler to prevent this.
 
How far is the cabinet door to the next wall change (inside or outside corner)?  You could do a drop return similar to the way they do on stairs.  This isn't the best example, but it was quick...

Drop it well before the door if you have room, then go horizontal again but under the height of the door.

Cheers.  Bryan.

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Some great replies here guys. Thanks for taking the time to respond. I'll keep all of these techniques in mind when it's time to repair, and for future projects.
 
Rental or not, I'd have to fix that.  In your boots I'd go with a shorter baseboard.  May be cheaper and faster to redo the whole room (hard to tell in the one pic). 

 
This is a case of job not being set up right. I'd do an attractive radius cut of base or several 22.5 miters and roll it to the floor to allow door to clear. Even a corner post can be used to define a stop point and make it look intentional. No doubt pre made cabinets with full overlay to hide and protect cheap box.
 
I had to step down my base to go under the door of our fridge. I returned the base to the wall about 3' out and then ripped the bottom off of the base so that it would go under the door. Then I took a coping saw and some rasps and kind of cut the piece to fit around the profile.

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Don't judge me too much it's still not filled or painted!
 

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