Basement wall framing

[ColossusX]

So I got a job finishing a basement.  Framing walls, drywall walls and ceiling,  etc.  Does not include flooring.  From the concrete to the bottom of the joists is 8 foot 5 inches.  Been wracking my head trying to figure out the best way to frame the walls without unnecessarily reducing head height.  There would be alot of waste of I buy 10 foot studs to cut them down.  Suggestions

 

[jonnyrocket]

8’ studs and single bottom plate out of pressure treated lumber with a double top plate. That should give you 8’ 4.5” and leaves 1/2” for plywood strips for the draft stops.

 

[ColossusX]

That was one of my thoughts. Since it's been seconded, I'll do that.

 

[DeformedTree]

Pressure treated bottom plate with non pressure treated plate over that to lock it all together, then the double top plate, now you can shave a bit off each stud.  Or non treated and use sil gasket.

Double bottom plate gives you a nailer for stuff and if they are coming in with some floor later, you don't know what build up there could be.

 

[Sparktrician]

Pressure treated bottom plate with non pressure treated plate over that to lock it all together, then the double top plate, now you can shave a bit off each stud.  Or non treated and use sil gasket.

Double bottom plate gives you a nailer for stuff and if they are coming in with some floor later, you don't know what build up there could be.

I'm with [member=68063]DeformedTree[/member] on this one.  Better to have the build-up on the bottom to accommodate flooring with insulation and possibly carpeting.  [smile]

 

[Holzhacker]

In situations like this I always use a double bottom plate, make up whatever else on the top as needed. Mainly so that there is a nailer behind the drywall. Makes the trim work easier since with any floor build up you aren't going to hit the bottom plate.
On a related note PLEASE raise your drywall up 1.5" off the cement floor. This can easily be done by just kicking a couple 2x scraps along the wall while doing the drywall. Set the drywall on top of the 2x, screw in, kick the scrap over to the next section.
DO NOT set your drywall directly onto the cement floor. I don't know how many job sites I've been on where guys set the drywall directly on to cement and there is water and mold damage before the job is even done. You don't need flooding or even seepage. All you need is the plumber or taper to knock over a bucket of water or a grunt to mop the floor. With the drywall directly on the cement its automatic water transfer, damage and mold. I've written it up as a major defect with guys having to remove the bottom of the drywall so many times. Contractors are always pissed but hey they are the morons who created the problem.
The problem is so stupid and the solution so simple.
Beyond that you are also protecting your client. If the basement does end up with a spill or some minor seepage it won't automatically get to the drywall. Flooring and baseboard will cover the gap sufficiently.

 

[jonnyrocket]

[member=6145]Holzhacker[/member] great explanation and reasoning! Most of my experience with Basements was in the desert areas out west and we didn’t have nearly the challenges with moisture and Sheetrock. But now living in the northwest, I can see where this would be an advantage even on main and second floors in bathrooms and laundry rooms.

 

[ColossusX]

I was planning on keeping the drywall off the floor, but a great reminder. I think I'll do the double base plate. I'm so used to using a double top from regular framing it didnt occur to do it on the bottom instead. Again great reasoning as to why

 

[tjbnwi]

Don't forget, you need a firestop where the new walls meet the floor joists. Most probably every 10" at the vertical also, check the local code.

Double bottom plate, steel stud c-channel with a 2" flange at the top.

Tom

 

[mike_aa]

In situations like this I always use a double bottom plate, make up whatever else on the top as needed. Mainly so that there is a nailer behind the drywall. Makes the trim work easier since with any floor build up you aren't going to hit the bottom plate.
On a related note PLEASE raise your drywall up 1.5" off the cement floor. This can easily be done by just kicking a couple 2x scraps along the wall while doing the drywall. Set the drywall on top of the 2x, screw in, kick the scrap over to the next section.
DO NOT set your drywall directly onto the cement floor. I don't know how many job sites I've been on where guys set the drywall directly on to cement and there is water and mold damage before the job is even done. You don't need flooding or even seepage. All you need is the plumber or taper to knock over a bucket of water or a grunt to mop the floor. With the drywall directly on the cement its automatic water transfer, damage and mold. I've written it up as a major defect with guys having to remove the bottom of the drywall so many times. Contractors are always ticked but hey they are the morons who created the problem.
The problem is so stupid and the solution so simple.
Beyond that you are also protecting your client. If the basement does end up with a spill or some minor seepage it won't automatically get to the drywall. Flooring and baseboard will cover the gap sufficiently.

If you are using a double plate on the bottom, would it make sense to offset the bottom one out from the wall by .5 inch so you can set your drywall on that to achieve the 1.5 inch spacing?

 

[DeformedTree]

In situations like this I always use a double bottom plate, make up whatever else on the top as needed. Mainly so that there is a nailer behind the drywall. Makes the trim work easier since with any floor build up you aren't going to hit the bottom plate.
On a related note PLEASE raise your drywall up 1.5" off the cement floor. This can easily be done by just kicking a couple 2x scraps along the wall while doing the drywall. Set the drywall on top of the 2x, screw in, kick the scrap over to the next section.
DO NOT set your drywall directly onto the cement floor. I don't know how many job sites I've been on where guys set the drywall directly on to cement and there is water and mold damage before the job is even done. You don't need flooding or even seepage. All you need is the plumber or taper to knock over a bucket of water or a grunt to mop the floor. With the drywall directly on the cement its automatic water transfer, damage and mold. I've written it up as a major defect with guys having to remove the bottom of the drywall so many times. Contractors are always ticked but hey they are the morons who created the problem.
The problem is so stupid and the solution so simple.
Beyond that you are also protecting your client. If the basement does end up with a spill or some minor seepage it won't automatically get to the drywall. Flooring and baseboard will cover the gap sufficiently.

If you are using a double plate on the bottom, would it make sense to offset the bottom one out from the wall by .5 inch so you can set your drywall on that to achieve the 1.5 inch spacing?

That would be a real pain to frame for not much gain.  Your floor is un-likely to be perfectly flat, so having that gap under the drywall gives it a margin of error to hang, it might hand over that lower 2x4 or even leave the upper one a bit exposed.  That gap also gives a spot for the flooring, if you have a floating floor, it's a space for the gap and makes your trim board less critical to cover the gap. If you are putting down tile or similar if gives you working room at the edge.  I get what your thinking, it would just be more work.  You also don't want to find after you put the drywall up, that your lower 2x4 sticks a bit further out than the face of the drywall, now you will have to deal with that when putting on trim.  The last part is by bringing the wood out you increase the chance of a water transfer from the floor as water will get in the wood, putting the wood under the drywall gives it one more path for moisture transfer.

 

[mike_aa]

If you are using a double plate on the bottom, would it make sense to offset the bottom one out from the wall by .5 inch so you can set your drywall on that to achieve the 1.5 inch spacing?

That would be a real pain to frame for not much gain.  Your floor is un-likely to be perfectly flat, so having that gap under the drywall gives it a margin of error to hang, it might hand over that lower 2x4 or even leave the upper one a bit exposed.  That gap also gives a spot for the flooring, if you have a floating floor, it's a space for the gap and makes your trim board less critical to cover the gap. If you are putting down tile or similar if gives you working room at the edge.  I get what your thinking, it would just be more work.  You also don't want to find after you put the drywall up, that your lower 2x4 sticks a bit further out than the face of the drywall, now you will have to deal with that when putting on trim.  The last part is by bringing the wood out you increase the chance of a water transfer from the floor as water will get in the wood, putting the wood under the drywall gives it one more path for moisture transfer.

I guess that's not such a good idea after all!  Thanks!

 

[xedos]

While we're at it, I'd throw in to use fiberglass faced drywall .  DensAromor is what's readily available around me , but most manuf. have something similar.