Bathtub Refinishing

Mike Goetzke

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Jul 12, 2008
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Ready to remodel our 1970’s bathroom. The tub is in good shape but it’s blue! Ha- so is the toilet and sink but they are easily replaceable. It’s a nice cast iron skirted tub and the drain is nearly impossible to get at so I’m thinking of refinishing it. I see mixed reviews using paint kits with rollers/brushes. I had a Fuji Q4 I could use.

Anyone ever do this that could shed some advice?

Thanks,
Mike
 
I was watching an episode of the HGTV show “Rehab Addict”, about Nicole Curtis and her home restorations.

In that episode she said that she gave up re-glazing her own tubs.  That her reglazing jobs looked good for 2 or 3 years and then failed.  (She did not specify how or why they failed). 

She went on to say that she had gotten much better results from professional re-glazers and she no longer reglazed her her own tubs. 

I suspect that professionals have access to materials that we do not.  I also suspect that the acid etch that comes with the consumer versions is much weaker than the muriatic acid used by pros.  This is probably on the advice of lawyers.

Regardless of the reason, she concluded that having it professionally done is preferable. 

I would also note that the acrylic finish that the pros apply is equal to the acrylic finish on acrylic tubs.  Steel tubs have porcelain as do cast iron ones.  Steel tubs have the reputation of not holding the heat well, and sometimes “tin canning” (making popping noises as the surface flexes).

My 1953 era bathroom also had blue sink, toilet and tub.  I will call in a reglazing specialist when I finish all the other work.

I do have a question for you.  I am getting ready to tile them tub surround.  I was planning on using caulk at the junction of the tile and the tub.  Would you caulk before or after having the tub reglazed?  My inclination is to caulk after the reglazing. 
 
I’ve had three of them refinished by professionals in the past.  They turned out very well.  I do recall it was maybe a week-long process from sanding, filling dings and painting.  You might look locally and get a quote.  I personally would not want to try it.  On none of them did they remove the bottom drain - just taped it over. 

 
[member=4518]Mike Goetzke[/member]  My In-Laws had some work done in their bathroom and the contractors also refinished the tub.  These guys were not real pros and I believe they used a kit from one of the big box stores.  Needles to say the treatment began to chip and peel not long after.  We were selling their house this year and had a professional company strip and refinish the tub.  After seeing all that they went through I would never want to try this myself!  I can't speak to the longevity, but based on how great it looks, it should last a long time. 

[member=74278]Packard[/member] We did not caulk until well after the refinishing was done.  I think it looks better and because the caulk goes over the finish, there won't be any risk of chipping the edge of the finish when the old caulk needs to be removed for re-caulking.

Mike A.

 
Years ago when I was a young contractor working for slumlords we would buy those roll on kits and do tubs. Sleazy, low grade work. I would not do that kind of work in my house or for any respectable jobsite. Its the kind of work you do for a slumlord or good looking product that will last long enough for the check to clear.
Did an inspection last year where the Seller was refinishing a steel tub on the day of inspection. So sleazy. Looked like crap.

However, also years ago I ended up with a great tub refinishing. Guys refinishing work never failed. I think the key to his good work was the acid etching he did to the old tub prior to new glazing. I don't know what he used for products but nobody could stay in the building the rest of the day. That shit destroyed brain cells. He used a respirator suit with outside air pumped in. I doubt what he used for cleaning and refinishing would meet any EPA guidelines.

I deal with tub refinishing from time to time these days still for apartments. The key to any decent life span is good cleaning prior to spraying. Around here the better guys do a thorough cleaning job. The cheaper guys wipe the tub, spray it and gone.
Since you mentioned the drain, I would caution you about not taking out the drain. Most guys spray around the drain. Some guys will remove the top basket to spray under it. A lot of the peeling failures I see start around the drains that were sprayed around.
You can do whatever you want of course. I would recommend re-doing the drain as part of any spray.
I prefer old cast iron tubs. They hold the heat well. If you are rehabbing the whole bathroom get rid of the tub. Start with a new tub. It will work out better in the long run for various reasons. No way I would put a steel tub in my house. The composite Americast tubs are a good option. I don't mind fiberglass tubs.
You don't have to throw out an old cast tub. If you have a yard they make great planters and/or bird baths.
 
We had a "Re-bath" tub liner that we found was leaking at the wall joint.  It had been leaking before we bought the house, but the inspector assumed that the water he saw in the basement during the tub fill/drain test was from the original-to-the-house drum trap, not the tub.

In any case, I used my Vecturo and a round blade with the depth shoe to slice up the vinyl insert without chipping the tub.  I was hoping the cast iron tub under the insert was the same peach color as the tile throughout the bathroom.  It turned out to be a white tub, nothing special.  The wallboard behind the tile is soft and will need to be replaced, so I intend to take the tub out, likely with a maul.  No way I'm going to drag that thing out of the bathroom, through the bedroom, hallway, living room, etc. just to put it in the yard.

If the wallboard and floor weren't damaged and if it were color-matched to the walls I might consider reglazing it, but it will probably go out the window in pieces just like the liner did.
 
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