Beaded face frames with Dominos

[chrisrosenb]

I have always made my face frames

 

[mastercabman]

Chris,did you domino before or after you made the jack miter?

 

[nclemmons]

Really nice Chris.

Can you walk through the sequence for doing these?  Edge detail, domino, then bevels?

Looks like the domino would work fine in the interior ones but the ones on the ends of the frames would require support to ensure they were straight with nothing on the outside to support the domino fence.

I have a benchtop mortiser but it's getting less and less use the more I gain confidence with the domino.

Thanks for sharing -

neil

 

[John Stevens]

The last step before assembly is to cut the bead on all of the parts.   

Hi Chris.  Beautiful work, thanks for sharing how you did it.  Dumb question (I'm full of them)--why do you cut the bead last?

Regards,

John

 

[builderbob]

The last step before assembly is to cut the bead on all of the parts. 

Hi Chris.  Beautiful work, thanks for sharing how you did it.  Dumb question (I'm full of them)--why do you cut the bead last?

Regards,

John

If you cut the bead prior to jack mitering, you will most likely blow out a bead from routering with the Kreg system. Hence, do all of the bead routing last!

Bob

 

[RONWEN]

I cut the parts to size, layout the locations of the rails & stiles & mark the mortise locations. (Rick's Domino Self Centering Jig would have made this less time consuming. Maybe I will get one if I decide to do this more often.)

Next I cut the mortises. I do not use any spacer blocks. I just set the domino fence on the wood & plunge the way Brian Sedgeley showed me to do it.
I have tried spacers in the past, but had more problems with alignment than I do going without.

Next I notched the stile & rails, I then cut the miters on the ends. I did all of these with a Kreg Face Frame Jig.

The last step before assembly is to cut the bead on all of the parts.   

That really adds great detail to your face frames!

My dumb question -- Did you really mean you notched the stiles & rails and cut the miters all on the Kreg Face Frame Jig???  If so how?
I don't have the Kreg Jig but I assumed it was only for assembly?  (I told you it was a dumb question  [embarassed])

 

[Rembo]

Yes, Kreg is great, but I can not buy it in Russia.
if you do not mind I can show you how get out of the situation.

 

[DKurzweil]

Chris,

Based on your photo, it looks like you extended the fence on the Kreg jig. 

Can you explain how you did this, it is hard to tell by the photo.

Thanks,
Daniel

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

How do you do it Rembo?

 

[Rembo]

How do you do it Rembo?

.it's not that difficult.
   

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

In the first picture of the jig do you just move the wood along to suit the width of the upright members?

 

[DKurzweil]

Chris,

Based on your photo, it looks like you extended the fence on the Kreg jig. 

Can you explain how you did this, it is hard to tell by the photo.

Thanks,
Daniel

Below are some more pictures of the fence. The materials used are a piece of 3/4" plywood, a piece of 1/2" plywood, 3/4" wide T track, 1/2" wide self stick measuring tape, 4 - 1/4" T headed bolts & 4 - 1/4" knobs.

I used the piece of 3/4" plywood for the back of the extension. It is held to the back of the jig fence by the 1/4" bolts in the t slots.

The t track is attached to the top of the 3/4" piece of plywood & lined up with the t slot in the top of the fence. The width of the 3/4" piece of plywood is determined by the thickness of the piece of T track being used.

The piece of 1/2" plywood is used for the face of the extension fence. I made it 3 1/2" wide. The self stick measuring tape is stuck to the top of the 1/2" plywood.   

Beautifully done.  That answered all my wonderings.  I was mostly trying to figure out how you had that top T-track aligned so well that it almost looked like a single piece. 

Thanks again,
Daniel

 

[Rembo]

In the first picture of the jig do you just move the wood along to suit the width of the upright members?

2 slots on the device one vertical, one horizontal. first at the extreme points of 45 degrees. saw off excess fret leveling and straight cutter. it can be improved and made with stops and rulers.