Bessey Warranty

smorgasbord

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I was watching some YouTuber on panel clamps, which was mostly worthless, but he did mention that Bessey's have a lifetime warranty, which got me thinking about some of my old K-Bodies that have "deteriorated" over the decades.

TL;DR: Bessey Warranty service is great! Newer K-Bodies have some real advantages over the original.

Here's the long version.

I bought a variety of K-Body clamps in the early 1990s as I got more serious about woodworking and had bought a house to remodel. I used them for not just "normal" woodworking, but also for some heavy-duty construction things, and some other weird clamping things, and for some quick and dirty assemblies where things didn't fit perfectly and so I tightened down what most would consider "too hard."

As a result, four of my OG K-Body clamps were close to useless. These original K-Bodies are the ones made in Germany, with wood handles, non-removable plastic wrapping, and crimped bar ends to the lower jaws can't be removed.
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As you can see, I put wrenches on the handles' ferrules to get more clamping pressure. Today's clamps have a 6mm hex socket so you can do that without the outside damage.

What may be harder to see is that when the jaws are just touching, the handles angle way too close to the bar and there isn't much thread left to tighten. Something inside has bent/deformed. Before using I had to unscrew the handles just right so that I could move the lower jaw freely and then bash my knuckles to pivot the handle toward the bar and have enough thread to tighten before running out of thread.

I also have two 24" clamps and I don't honestly remember how these got damaged, but the result was that something in the jaw faces is pushed up, and so using these clamps results in impressions in my work.
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Anyway, I found the Bessey US Warranty Pageand submitted a warranty request.  The page failed to load. Tried another browser and got the same error. So, I sent an email to the address on the page and got a response back in a few days.

They wanted some more photos, which I quickly supplied and they granted my request! I just received 6 brand new K-Body clamps yesterday!

Interestingly, the replacement 24" clamps are made in China while the 12" are made in the US. Can't tell much difference between them, but I haven't gone over them in detail yet.

I will say that in the 30 years since my OG K-Bodies, the clamps are gotten better. My OG versions have the jaw that slides on its own, the wood handles don't provide a good grip so they're harder to tighten, there is no foot at the other end of the bar to keep the clamp horizontal on a flat surface, the end is crimped so you can't remove the lower jaw, which means no reverse spreader and no way to extend by joining two clamps together. The newer clamp "KRE3" has a two part composite handle that provides both a better and larger grip, has the 6mm allen socket, has a more secure sliding mechanism (downside is you can't just loosen and slide, you have to pull the handle away from the bar), the jaw doesn't slide down on its own, the clamping pads are replaceable, and the total pressure rating is much higher. Since the jaws are removable, Bessey sells clamps to join two bars together to create one longer clamp - this would have saved me some serious money back in the day. I still have two 96" clamps that I use occasionally, but they're great to have when you need them. Finally, they come with plastic spacers to keep the work off of the bar itself.

I've read a lot of these improvements came from competitors coming out with K-Body clones and adding these new features, but good on Bessey for adopting them where they could.

When I get the time, I'm going to cut open the plastic around one of the clamps to see what the underlying structure is. I haven't seen anyone to that on any K-Body. And then I'm not quite sure what to do with the old clamps. The 24" are project ruiners, but maybe useful on some rough things? The 12" are usable, but a pain. It's not right for me to sell them, even As Is, since they're warrentied replaced. Maybe I'll figure out if someone local thinks they can use them and is willing to put up with the handle issues.

As you can imagine, I'm stoked that Bessey stood by their products, I'm somewhat ashamed that I probably relied on too much clamping pressure for some jobs, and hope my son will get some use out of these clamps in 30 years when I'm certainly at least no longer going to be strong enough to use them.
 

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I have over 60 bessey clamps and recently two revo clams snaped. I have tried to find new replacement jars, but without luck. I contacted bessey importer and I was told it will be 60 euro each. That cost as much as a new kre30. I was expecting the clamps to be heavier duty or to have replacement jars at lower price than a brand new clamp. I don’t think I will be getting any more k body clamps. View attachment 1
 

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Yowsa, that looks bad. I notice that at least one of the hardened steel pins is bent, too. Were these sudden failures while tightening, did they pop overnight, or something else? Just curious. With these clamps rated, even the original ones, to at least 1500 pounds of pressure, what amount of pressure do you think you had - and did you get that with just hand cranking? If so, remind me not to shake your hand should we meet. [wink]

As for replacement parts, Amazon US has them. A lower jaw, complete:https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-KRE-J2K-REVOlution-Operating-Jaw/dp/B07BWGLNYJ

And you can get the movable "fixed" jaw as well there, too:https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-KRE-J2K-REVOlution-Operating-Jaw/dp/B07D1NDX3D

Other US places have them for less even.

 
Wow [member=77266]smorgasbord[/member] that's great news. I have a couple of 24" K-body that were somewhat "sprung" from day one. I bought them at the local HD, took them to the shop and used them immediately, not noticing the defect right away. At the time I noticed it, it just seemed too late to do anything about it?
They function, just not properly, so I kept them. I had no idea that the warranty was so robust.
 
BTW, there are a few comparison videos out there. One in which the plastic housings were actually removed is:

Here are some screen grabs:
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[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]

I would have said the cast iron head on the Bremans isn't as good as the wider set of plates on the Bessey, especially considering the attachment mechanisms, but [member=61295]petar73[/member] 's photos showing the Bessey breakage makes me wonder.

Another video claimed that the process used by Bessey for the bar itself was better than the Breman.  Breman claims a 1300 lb limit, Bessey is at least 1700, if not 2200.

That all said, for true woodworking usage, we shouldn't be using a ton of clamping pressure. I do admit to being guilty of forcing things with clamps at times, although not for any of my "fine woodworking" projects.

And this from The Wood Whisperer where he looks at the serrations and bar "locking" mechanisms of the Bessey and Bremen, which to me shows the Bessey being superior:=728s
 

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smorgasbord,

That's great news on Bessey standing behind their clamps. For those pushing their K-Body clamps to failure, you may need the Bessey I-Beam clamps, rated at 7,000lbs clamping pressure (as compared to 1,700lbs for the K-Body). Probably overkill for cabinetry, but I'm finding them absolutely necessary for producing doors and windows, particularly since I don't have the ceiling clearance for the Soukup Frame Press  [wink]:https://soukupamerica.com/products/clamping-squaring-equipment/fp-frame-press
 
Yeah, I've got a couple of old Jorgenson I-Beam clamps that can also produce similar pressure, but rarely use them because they're so heavy to drag about and I typically need the jaw depth of the K-Bodies for cabinet assembly versus high pressure of the I-Beams for panels, since my panel glue-ups are pretty well jointed beforehand.

I do have a couple of "Mastodon" jaw extenders for the I-Beams that I've used to put clamping pressure in the middle of panels when my handscrews can't reach, but again, the heavy I-Beam bars are just a pain.

Interestingly, the size K-Bodies I use the most, and so have bought the most, are the 12" ones, which companies like Bremen don't even make. That started with 15' long 3-piece beam-wrappers I built out of left-over ½" thick solid wood flooring. At that thickness and length, biscuits kept the joints in alignment, but I needed many many clamps to get tight joints over the entire length, and with the widths being small (just a couple inches), more clamps than a panel clamp were necessary. In addition to the K-Bodies, I used what Quick-Grip clamps I had. It was weird having 50" long clamps on the 2" wide pieces...
 
View attachment 1Thank you for the links. I have seen the jars are available for sale in USA, but was not able to find them in Europe. I may contact Bessey again and see what they will say about the warranty or at least more affordable replacement jars.
I have never used a spanner, only my hands, so I would expect them to be made accordingly at least. Most of the time I don’t used them hard, but sometimes mostly for oak worktops or front doors I need to crank them all the way up. I will have to get some stronger clamps for that, but the revo body clamps are easier and lighter to use.
Thanks.
 

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I agree that the I-Beam clamps are odiously heavy, my preference would be to stick with the K-Body clamps but I'm finding that they do not have sufficient clamping pressure to overcome the non-trivial resistance glue has on complicated bridle joints (windows), or large mortise and tenon joinery in doors. It's really eye-opening how much more pressure you can apply with the I-Beam clamps, and due to the handle design, it's a lot easier as well.

Also, due to the stiffness if the I-Beam design, I've found them to be preferred for longer (2m+) spans where the smaller parallel jaw bars have too much flex......
 
Where are you located in Europe?

German spare parts catalog lists them (Page 22) ->https://www.bessey.de/getmedia/3c29.../Zubehor-und-Ersatzteilliste__de_EUR.pdf.aspx

(Order# 3101774 / 45,67 EUR)

However, a very different price compared to that Amazon US price of 26,71 USD.

I did find the part with a German dealer, but they list it as no longer available/ discontinued. Not sure if that is true, or just aftermath of the whole supply chain/ energy price hick-ups ...

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Thank you. I live in Bulgaria, but I bought most of the clamps in UK before I moved back home.
 
petar73 said:
I have never used a spanner, only my hands, so I would expect them to be made accordingly at least.

That's pretty incredible to break the K-Bodies with just hand twisting! With today's clamps allowing for a 6mm allen wrench used directly, I would definitely push on Bessey to replace the broken pieces.

The author of one of the videos I linked also complained he got no satisfaction from talking with Bessey. I ended up going through email and everything was fine. It'd be a shame if warranty service quality was heavily dependent on the luck of the person at the other end.
 
Tom Gensmer said:
I agree that the I-Beam clamps are odiously heavy, my preference would be to stick with the K-Body clamps but I'm finding that they do not have sufficient clamping pressure to overcome the non-trivial resistance glue has on complicated bridle joints (windows), or large mortise and tenon joinery in doors. It's really eye-opening how much more pressure you can apply with the I-Beam clamps, and due to the handle design, it's a lot easier as well.

Also, due to the stiffness if the I-Beam design, I've found them to be preferred for longer (2m+) spans where the smaller parallel jaw bars have too much flex......

I have some ancient long I-beam clamps and feel the same way about them. Recently Lowes had a sale on Jorgensen clamps so I bought a pair of 72” parallel jaw clamps, similar (at least superficially) to Bessey K-body clamps. My longest Bessey clamps are 50”.

I’ll return them. The bars are too soft. They looked bent and when I bent them the other way to straighten them it was entirely too easy to do. I don’t mean they flex like a long piece of steel will do, they bend with just a little force.

I clamped an 18” stick that was at hand and the bar sprung (in the stiffer direction) as much as Bessey bar will flex at 48”. Clamping something at full length the bar would have to be backed away from the work at least an inch, I guess.

Similarly to my Bessey K clamps one of the fixed ends was more that 90* to the bar and the other was less than 90*. A very minor point in my opinion but I don’t understand why nobody can manufacture them consistently.
 
smorgasbord said:
Interestingly, the size K-Bodies I use the most, and so have bought the most, are the 12" ones, which companies like Bremen don't even make.
I have been a Bessey user for years, going clear back to the smaller heads and the wooden grips, yet I have never owned even one 12" model. Even today, I only have two of the 18" K-body and two of the junior ones. The sizes I have the most of are the 40" (8) and 24" (6), along with 50" (4) and 31" (4)
For shorter clamping I use the lighter-duty Bessey Uniclamps 6" and 12"
I just find them so far superior to the typical pipe clamps. The jaw depth is a big part of that, but the sliding mechanism and the tightening handle are on the same end. Pipe clamps are a giant pain in comparison.
 
Is there a thread here on the various techniques one can employ to get panel glue-ups that are flat?

I’ve tried everything from clamping the seams milling edges at the same time to clamping seams at the ends to having clamp bars above and below the stock to 4-way clamps to using shop made slightly curved cauls. Old timers with the crappy pipe clamps available in their day would use dowels between the clamp heads and stick to force the pressure to be in the middle.

I’ve settled on a jointer fence that is dead nuts at 90, tablesaw rips with alternating face orientation, and then only if I need it, adding cauls. The K Bodies have been pretty good at not pushing things out of flat, especially with the bar spacers, which came years after the first K Body clamps were sold. I try to use more clamps rather than fewer clamps with more pressure at each.
 
A shaper/spindle moulder is beyond the average home workshop, but for making exterior doors, it really is the best way to do all of the joinery.
 
There are equivalent router bits for that joint (Infinity Tools has one here:https://www.infinitytools.com/glue-joint-router-bits ), but does using that bit prevent bowing/cupping when clamping? Sure, using those bits or biscuits or dominos can help with alignment at the edges, but that's not the whole story. And those profiles aren't suitable if the end grain is visible, at least for my aesthetics.
 
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