best accessories for TS55?

[davidwilkie]

I second (or third or fourth or whatever) the Parallel Guides. Just used a new set to break down 6 full sheets. Wow! Fast and accurate (if you set them up right). I highly recommend putting imperial tapes on them (they come metric) which is very easy to do.

FYI, the 55" rail guide is NOT long enough to use the Parallel Guides to cut across a 48" sheet...there is not enough extra to connect them on both sides...no problem if you have the 106" (which I do and very highly recommend). It is a bit more unwieldily to use the 106" on shorter cuts, but barely so and not enough to justify my also getting a 75".

 

[jonny round boy]

I would recommend a few rail sizes

400mm
600mm
800mm
1400mm
1400mm
1400mm
2 x rail connectors

JMB

400, 600 rails? Did you make those (cut from larger) or buy them?
I agree that
Tim

He definitely didn't buy them. Festool don't make them that short!

 

[jmbfestool]

No I did not buy them!  I cut them rails I was asked what freebie I wanted by festool so I asked for a Ali blade from Festool when they sent me a faulty kapex to say sorry so I used the ali blade to cut my rails up in smaller sizes!   I cut one of my 1400 into 800 600.  Was a perfect gift as I would never of bought an ali blade as I knew I wouldnt never use it but cus it was free I though well if I dont get it now I never will and I can cut my rails to size perfectly square and clean cut.

JMB

 

[Mavrik]

I got some extra blades that I don't use often, but are invaluable when I need them:
- aluminium cutting blade  --> great for anything aluminium
- Panther blade for ripping --> the stock blade doesn't do so well in ripping long 50mm hardwood

 

[Brice Burrell]

.....FYI, the 55" rail guide is NOT long enough to use the Parallel Guides to cut across a 48" sheet...there is not enough extra to connect them on both sides.....

I don't think that's correct.  I'm pretty sure I remember being able to make it work.

 

[jmbfestool]

I second (or third or fourth or whatever) the Parallel Guides. Just used a new set to break down 6 full sheets. Wow! Fast and accurate (if you set them up right). I highly recommend putting imperial tapes on them (they come metric) which is very easy to do.

FYI, the 55" rail guide is NOT long enough to use the Parallel Guides to cut across a 48" sheet...there is not enough extra to connect them on both sides...no problem if you have the 106" (which I do and very highly recommend). It is a bit more unwieldily to use the 106" on shorter cuts, but barely so and not enough to justify my also getting a 75".

??  Im confused so you use a guide rail but you dont actually use the guide rail?  You use the guide rails as a guide to run your parallel guide along why not sit your TS on the rail and use the rails for what they are made for?!  Unless I have miss understood. 

Like I said I would NOT buy the parallel guide as you might as well get a makita or bosch saw. The TS is designed for guide RAIL and perfect straight clean cuts. You will not achieve has high quality cut using the parallel guide.  As you will be relying on the sheet to have a straight edge okay they are normaly always straight but also if your doing repeated cuts at say 4 inch a fault would be repeated on every fallowing cut and if you did the same fault again it will get worse on every cut. Atleast with the guide rail you know you leave a straight edge for your next piece and you wont be accumulating faults.

JMB

 

[eruby]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  I can hear my bank account shrinking.  It looks like I will have to learn to think more in metric (I am tired of converting everything).

There seems to be some confusion about the parallel guides. (at least by me)

from what I can tell there is a Parallel edge guide and a  parallel guide.  The former seems to be a more traditional edge guide and the latter an accessory for the tracks themselves????

I think I will hold off on both until I learn more about how the saw actually runs (stupid holiday travel keeping me away from the shop)

BTW - My TS-55 came with a limit stop

 

[EcoFurniture]

Get yourself a set of clamps (i don't like the quick release ones... they leave marks...) and another 55" rail. That should do for the beginning. Further down the road I would consider getting a more aggressive blade for ripping planks. But then again, I did this with the standard blade for a couple of years. Worked fine, just a bit slower.

MFT/3 would be next...then the gecco clamp. I have the parallel edge guide and never really used it... Also had the parallel guide, returned it.

Cheers,
Andreas

 

[tbellemare]

My TS-55 came with a limit stop

All TS Saws come with a limit stop. At a minimum, it's a safety issue. You shouldn't plunge into the work piece without it in place abutting the rear of the sole plate.

Tom

 

[mosez]

@jmb: i think you mixed up the thing that lets you make a parallel cut to an edge like with the edge guide of a router and the FS-PA, which is an accessory for the guide rail.

Festool Parallel guide system

the video shows the FS-PA, which people in this thread were recommending.
the parallel edge guide is very limited in my opinion and it will never do anything better than the rails would. it only might be easier to set up for repeatable cuts parallel to an existing edge within a small range of width.

 

[eruby]

Tom,
Thanks for the note about the limit stop during plunge cuts.  That is a lesson I am glad I do not have to learn first hand (I have had a regular circular saw come back at me before and that was not fun)

To those recommending a second 55" rail and connector:  Do you have trouble making sure the rails line up correctly or would it be better to just wait until I can buy the longer rail?  I am hobbyist working out of my basement so portability is not a huge concern for me.

 

[davee]

I finally bought a longer rail to save the hassle, but I didn't find joining rails to be inaccurate. At the Cabinets class in Indy, it was mentioned that you shouldn't butt the rails tight (keep them at about 1/8th inch gap) and use the saw itself spanning the joint to assist in alignment.  This works well for me.

 

[tbellemare]

I think you'd be better off with a different length guide rail as a second. If you want to make full sheet cuts, I'd recommend the 1900.

Although, if you want to put both in the bag, 2 1400's will fit but the 1900 won't.

I use the edge of the MFT for aligning rails and haven't had problems. It's almost guaranteed to be planer because it has the profile right under it. You can always check it with one rail first.

Tom

 

[jmbfestool]

@jmb: i think you mixed up the thing that lets you make a parallel cut to an edge like with the edge guide of a router and the FS-PA, which is an accessory for the guide rail.

Festool Parallel guide system

the video shows the FS-PA, which people in this thread were recommending.
the parallel edge guide is very limited in my opinion and it will never do anything better than the rails would. it only might be easier to set up for repeatable cuts parallel to an existing edge within a small range of width.

He said Parallel GuideS I did not see the S so I was still assuming he was talking about the Parallel guide still from when Bob Marino linked some accessories and thats what I am on about.
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/stops-and-accessories/parallel-guide-491469.html

What you have linked to is the Parrallel guide SYSTEM/Parallel Guide Set

So technically I am still right and not mixed up! As he called the Parallel guides by the wrong name! Assuming people knew what he was on about! As he should of said Parrallel guide SET system.

JMB

 

[jmbfestool]

My TS-55 came with a limit stop

All TS Saws come with a limit stop. At a minimum, it's a safety issue. You shouldn't plunge into the work piece without it in place abutting the rear of the sole plate.

Tom

Not all cus in the UK they dont! Well mine didnt so it aint all.  PLUS its not unsafe to plunge with a 55 I have done it timer after time and into kitchen worktops solid and chip board NEVER does it try and kick back it just doesnt. Maybe thats why they dont supply them in the UK.   The 75 now thats a different ball game!  Now you can feel that trying to kick back! you can feel it and the danger is you push against it to stop it which in turn makes you plunge more which in turn makes it bite more and can cause it to jump out. So I now always use the limit stop for the TS 75 but der is no need for the TS55 only if your worried cutting past your line if it does kick back.   I have cut LOADS!!! of sinks and hobs out of worktops  I often cut them out after I have fitted the work top well most of the time I do.

1.  Carrying a large worktop with a large cut out you run the risk of breaking the work top if its awkward to get it in.
2. I know I have my cut out exactly in the right place as I can mark it centre of the unit no offset measuring.

Now having an expensive worktop and FITTED would be a nightmare if you had to replace it cus you messed up cutting the hop or sink out but Oh yes I still use my TS55 with NO limit stop thats how much I trust plunging the TS55 saw touch wood never have a **** up!

Im not saying you should do it that way! Just saying its not WOW dangerous you cant plunge without Limit stop on a TS55 cu UKS TS55 dont come with stop so if it was such a health and safety they would have to supply one. I understand why the the TS75 does come with one though.

JMB

 

[Sam Murdoch]

.....FYI, the 55" rail guide is NOT long enough to use the Parallel Guides to cut across a 48" sheet...there is not enough extra to connect them on both sides.....

I don't think that's correct.  I'm pretty sure I remember being able to make it work.

Yes, I do this all the time with clamps at both ends if need be. You need to pay attention at the beginning, but that goes without saying in all woodworking applications. Wouldn't really want a longer guide rail for this job.

Also, I have the basic version of the clamps & I think they are great. Very useful around the shop for many other set ups too because of the pad on one side & the narrow bar on the other. Even if I add quick clamps someday I will be very happy to have the originals in my box. Can't say the same about the angle jig which was, as previously mentioned, mostly a waste of money.

 

[mouppe]

For what it's worth, my experience with the guide rail connectors is that they work perfectly well but it is a PITA, particularly as my second rail is attached to my MFT. I will probably buy a longer rail at some point to avoid the hassle of having to connect rails.

With hindsight, I would have bought a longer rail with my TS55 but I did not know this option was available.

 

[Kodi Crescent]

Buy the 32" rail.  It handles like a carbine.  Light and fast.  Sounds like a joke, but I'm serious.

 

[GPowers]

The accessories I bought for the TS55 were:

The Parallel guide set
1400mm rail
3000mm rail
MFT/3
CT22
and some clamps

 

[eruby]

Thanks everyone!

I do plan  on buying a longer guide rail (at least a 2700)  but I scored a FS 1400/2-LR 32 on EBAY.  So I guess its off to but a couple of connectors.