Best finish for bathroom vanity?

[rocky100370]

Hi all love this forum and all the info here. I don't have a sprayer and will be wanting the smoothest finish without the brush marks. If I sand down with 400G paper will that help? Also would Festool exterior oil be the best finish? Im in the states if that helps.

TIA!!

 

[AlexThePalex]

Sanding as smooth as possible certainly helps to let the paint flow out as evenly as possible. Sand between every layer.

I am not familiar with Festool outdoor oils, but in general you should not use outdoor finishes indoors. The outdoor products are designed specifically for an outdoor environment and tend to have stronger chemicals in them that you don't want inside.

Yacht paints/stains/laquers do well in a wet environment like a bathroom. If you don't have a sprayer you can also buy spray cans.

For brushing, find a brush with as fine hairs as possible, and make the final strokes in the direction of the grain to see as little as possible from them.

 

[rjboch]

I have been using EMTech6500 from Target Coatings with great success (they are out of New Jersey). It's a water-based low VOC pigmented lacquer that rolls on beautifully. I have recently used on laundry, bath, and kitchen cabinets and its rock solid and looks as good as if sprayed. Process is a little more laborious (but I find no need for a spray setup yet), but includes:

1.) Sand down lightly with 220 grit
2.) Prime with Zinnser BIN Primer
3.) Light sanding with 320 grit
4.) Lightly rolled 1st coat of paint
5.) Very light sanding with 320 grit (by hand)
6.) Lightly rolled 2nd coat of paint
7.) Light sanding with 320 grit
8.) Lightly rolled 3rd (final) coat of paint
9.) Done

It sounds worse than it is...If careful and with a little skill it comes out comparable to a sprayed finish.

* dust off/clean between coats

* It's not the level at which you sand the ply or wood that results in good final finish. It's the care you take and process in applying the finish. It could become problematic if you sand the base down too much (e.g., >400)...resulting in failure later.

* I use Wooster RR727-9 Pro/Doo-Z Nap Rollers, 3/8-Inch.

* Target Coatings will color match and they ship anywhere in US. My last order of 2 gallons was about $60/gallon plus $20 FEDEX (to CA).

Hope this helps.

 

[mrFinpgh]

Are you thinking clear or painted?

For either, I think the big concerns are going to be sealing the surface and ensuring good adhesion.

For clear - you could try to use a hardwax oil but I don't know how well it would hold up on a Vanity over time.  I suspect the various cleaning agents/soaps/toothpastes/moisturizers/etc might be a bit challenging.  On the other hand, I've had Osmo Top oil on the walnut island where my sink is for about 3 years now.  It is holding up well but I am mindful of any standing water, and it probably could stand to be refreshed a little bit.

I also pre-treated that area w/ penetrating epoxy, which could be playing a big role in why it is doing as well as it is.

Target coatings, as mentioned above, does have some good products. I think one of them is EM9500 or something - it's a brushable product which is supposed to have very high chemical and scratch resistance.

 

[rocky100370]

Thank you all for your help. Not sure yet if Im going to paint or stain. Ill post update when the decision is made. The top is going to be quartz so no need for anything durable on there.

 

[xedos]

I think 400g is too high for the initial sand. Especially for oils.  That’s more a between coat grit.

Most finish’s data sheets will tell you what grit to sand to.  The ones I use are I the 180 -220g.

 

[Packard]

I built a vanity about 15 years ago with drawers in place of doors.  The storage is much more usable with drawers contoured to fit around the plumbing.

It was built with oak veneer hardwood plywood and poplar for the drawer boxes.  The finish was a coat of Sealcoat + 3 coats of Minwax oil-based poly.  This was the same finish I used on the table tops I refinished for the local Starbucks and it stood up to multiple cleanings daily for 10 years with good appearance until retired.  I expected better for my vanity.

My mistake was using Shaker type drawer fronts.  The 3/4" flat tops of the drawers would get wet and the water would sit there, as would it collect on the 1/4" deep exposure on the rails (horizontal pieces).  So there is some finish deterioration on the top edge of both the top and bottom drawers.  If I had radiused that edge or if I had cut it on a slight angle the water would not have remained in place and it would have stood up better. 

I would note that the finish is still intact even in the areas where there is water damage.  I think a light sanding and some spot brushing on fresh finish will add another 15 years to the finish.

So If I were doing this again I would radius all the tops of the drawer boxes, and I would modify the design of the Shaker drawer fronts to provide some drainage.

Another alternative would have been to inset the drawers (or doors) so the tops of the faces would not be so vulnerable.

In sum, it is not just the finish that has to be considered; the design will affect the performance almost as much the type of finish.

 

[JonathanJung]

I would sand to P320 and use Osmo PolyX satin. That's the favorite for my customers.