Best Hand Saw for Cutting Through Domino on Drawer Box?

[Bugsysiegals]

I was going to use my drawer lock router bit but my zero clearance fence isn't working as well as I'd like so I've decided to use Domino's instead.  I thought it would go smooth until the machine started feeling funny at the end of the plunge.  I wasn't sure what was going on until I removed the Domino ... the bottom of the bit flares out and the bit was elongating the hole as well as burning the wood! 

It seems I need to stop as soon as I feel this different feeling and then just cut off the excess Domino?  I'm unable to move on to the middle Domino until these are cut flush but wonder whether there's any particular type of hand saw I should buy which will cut the excess Domino while minimizing the scaring of the wood itself?

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[Bugsysiegals]

Maybe something like this?

$38.80 - SUIZAN Japanese Pull Saw Hand Saw 9.5 Inch Ryoba Double Edge for Woodworking

 

[ChuckM]

At least half a dozen choices (Cdn prices shown; switch to US store/site for American currency):
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop?query=flus cut saw&resultOnPage=50&page=1&categoryId={57135C30-EBA0-4378-9FE9-F011FC16186D}&sortBy=default&includeCategories=true&dataItem={7377C931-131A-417D-A0C3-57C296237784}

Single edge, double edge, Western, Japanese, etc.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

Funny I'm looking at LV now but they've no ratings .. would be nice to see which is the most popular and has good reviews.  It seems some are for crosscut and others rip?

 

[ChuckM]

All Lee Valley/Veritas products do not carry ratings or reviews. The company's reputation is its products' reputation. (All Veritas products are made in Canada.)

 

[08G8V8]

What do you mean you can’t move into the middle domino?  Are you cutting both pieces in a single plunge?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FestitaMakool]

One of these:https://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-Raz..._5?crid=32RW9X86SM1MK&dchild=1&keywords=flush+cut+japanese+saw&qid=1605572626&sprefix=flush+Cut+japanese+%2Caps%2C325&sr=8-5

You won’t regret.  [wink]

 

[afish]

Nice to see you gave it a shot.  You are almost there.  to trim off the excess use a router with a flush trim bit bottom bearing.  Cleans it right off with no scaring.  Its hard to tell from the photos is that 18 or 12mm birch?

 

[afish]

never mind that was dumb of me I counted the plies (11)  so 15mm 5/8 what size dominos are you using? Im guessing 5mm by the looks of that first domino but will wait for your answer.

 

[JimD]

Best would be a flush cut saw.  I have an old Harbor Freight that works pretty well and a folding model that I carry in my apron.  They have no set so they don't scratch up the work (used properly). 

 

[Bugsysiegals]

never mind that was dumb of me I counted the plies (11)  so 15mm 5/8 what size dominos are you using?

Wow, you're right about the size, I didn't know you could do that!  I'm using 5/8" for the sides and 3/8" for the bottoms.  Once I get these done I'll cut the dado's but am not sure how far from the bottom I should go?

What a newbie, I'm not sure why I didn't think of this!?  I've a Whiteside spiral flush trim bit I used to trim 3/4" Walnut edge banding and didn't even consider it ... I guess I need to get my tools out of their boxes more often so I remember what I've got available!! 

Down Cut Spiral Flush Trim Bit

 

[rmhinden]

I was going to use my drawer lock router bit but my zero clearance fence isn't working as well as I'd like so I've decided to use Domino's instead.  I thought it would go smooth until the machine started feeling funny at the end of the plunge.  I wasn't sure what was going on until I removed the Domino ... the bottom of the bit flares out and the bit was elongating the hole as well as burning the wood! 

I am curious why this is happening.  Please explain how you are making the mortices, both at the same time, separately, bit size, etc.

Seems to me that the domino should not be "elongating the hole".

Bob

 

[afish]

Hes doing it at the same time. I build all my drawers like that.

Bugs, if you step up to a 6mm domino the cutter has more of a shoulder the 5mm bit flares at the end and you have to be careful you dont push to far.  Looks like you got a little heavy handed on that first one.  Its a delicate balance with the df500.  Since the 500 has a max 28mm depth.  When I do 18mm I put a rabbit on the drawer sides this will get you more domino depth into the front and back of the drawer. With 15mm you are almost getting 50/50 so you probably dont need to.  Another tip is to pin the corners together with 23ga. pin nails with some T3 just make sure the pins arnt where the dominos will go. I pin everything and let the glue set up then come back pop in the dominos add some more glue in the dom hole tap in the domino and once the glue dries rout them flush.  easy peasy.

 

[afish]

here is the domino 5mm and 6mm you can see the difference.  You can use the 5 it just requires a gentler touch. 

 

[Bugsysiegals]

Hes doing it at the same time. I build all my drawers like that.

Bugs, if you step up to a 6mm domino the cutter has more of a shoulder the 5mm bit flares at the end and you have to be careful you dont push to far.  Looks like you got a little heavy handed on that first one.  Its a delicate balance with the df500.  Since the 500 has a max 28mm depth.  When I do 18mm I put a rabbit on the drawer sides this will get you more domino depth into the front and back of the drawer. With 15mm you are almost getting 50/50 so you probably dont need to.  Another tip is to pin the corners together with 23ga. pin nails with some T3 just make sure the pins arnt where the dominos will go. I pin everything and let the glue set up then come back pop in the dominos add some more glue in the dom hole tap in the domino and once the glue dries rout them flush.  easy peasy.

It was still allowing me to push in so I figured it wasn't all the way in ... it seems the full 28mm depth will get into the shoulder area of that 5mm cutter.

I just tried your method and it worked fairly well ... I've slight marring as it allows the bit just a hair to close but I bet sanding would remove it.  Maybe I'll try a piece of paper under the router in the future to further reduce this ...

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I was just thinking about what you said and since every domino will be flush cut differently, I definitely don't want to do the rest of the drawer just to remove, dado, glue up, and try to find which Domino fits where and in what orientation!  Thanks for pointing this out! 

So, I'll cut the dado's, sand the pieces smooth, glue the drawer box together, clamp or pin nail between where the Domino's will be, allow it to dry (how many hours?), plunge the Domino holes, glue in the Domino's, let them dry (how many hours?) flush cut them, and sand over the Domino's to finish?

I'm not sure I actually have a round over bit so maybe I'll break the corners gently but wonder whether they'd look better by rounding over or having different height for sides and front/back?

 

[afish]

Yes, another benefit of gluing and pinning first allows you to do all the domino mortises first then tap them in. As you found out if you do them as you go they will interfere with doing the next domino depending on spacing since they stick out slightly. It kind of depends on how much time you allowed for the glue to setup. I usually do one side then glue in the dominos then rotate to the next side. Truthfully you are probably good with just the 2 but 3 wont hurt. 

As far as that bit scarfing your wood. that makes me think the pieces aren't 90.  Make sure they are square first and adjust your bit so the bearing is about 1/8" below the domino.  Something needs looking at you should not have had that much of a scar.  either the material or bit isnt square, bit flex (dont push hard to the side) and the farther you have your bit down increases the amount of error if the pieces arnt square and increases flex of the bit.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

here is the domino 5mm and 6mm you can see the difference.  You can use the 5 it just requires a gentler touch.

I didn't realize the 5/6mm bits had different shoulders.  This is good to know as the 5mm bit shoulder comes before 28mm plunge so you should use a 25mm depth plunge or stop plunging when you feel it reach the shoulder.  I'd switch the 6mm cutter but I've 1,000 5mm tenons and only a small bag of 6mm!! Oh well, I'll switch to 25mm depth plunge...

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Looking forward to using the drawer lock at some point!

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[afish]

I didn't realize the 5/6mm bits had different shoulders.  This is good to know as the 5mm bit shoulder comes before 28mm plunge so you should use a 25mm depth plunge or stop plunging when you feel it reach the shoulder.  I'd switch the 6mm cutter but I've 1,000 5mm tenons and only a small bag of 6mm!! Oh well, I'll switch to 25mm depth plunge...

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Looking forward to using the drawer lock at some point!

Yes the 5mm isnt quite as deep thats why I mentioned rabbiting the sides slightly to get a little extra depth if needed. You probably have all your parts cut now so next time. You should still be good. Hopefully you are plunging the domino in from the drawer sides and not front and back.  once you get the domino drawer bugs worked out you will probably never look back.  They are easy, look good and supper strong. I would actually be interested in a strength test compared to dovetail drawers but im to lazy to do it

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[Bugsysiegals]

Yes, another benefit of gluing and pinning first allows you to do all the domino mortises first then tap them in. As you found out if you do them as you go they will interfere with doing the next domino depending on spacing since they stick out slightly. It kind of depends on how much time you allowed for the glue to setup. I usually do one side then glue in the dominos then rotate to the next side. Truthfully you are probably good with just the 2 but 3 wont hurt. 

As far as that bit scarfing your wood. that makes me think the pieces aren't 90.  Make sure they are square first and adjust your bit so the bearing is about 1/8" below the domino.  Something needs looking at you should not have had that much of a scar.  either the material or bit isnt square, bit flex (dont push hard to the side) and the farther you have your bit down increases the amount of error if the pieces arnt square and increases flex of the bit.

I'm not sure if you can see but I had the bearing just under elongated hole of the Domino so as close as I could be but on solid wood.  I also did not push but slowly came in trimming it down until I was close and then gently glided it across.  As you suspected, the wood is not 90 degrees for some reason which is strange to me ...

Here you can see my protractor set to 90, laying flat across the top, butted up to the side piece, which is clamped firm to the extrusion, yet there's a gap on the bottom which means the top is leaning closer to the bit hence the gouging.  I can pull out on the bottom of the side mounted board and eliminate the gap but I'm surprised I'd have to.  I cut these a month ago and they've been stacked flat but maybe being unbound from the main sheet they've began to warp?

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[Bugsysiegals]

I didn't realize the 5/6mm bits had different shoulders.  This is good to know as the 5mm bit shoulder comes before 28mm plunge so you should use a 25mm depth plunge or stop plunging when you feel it reach the shoulder.  I'd switch the 6mm cutter but I've 1,000 5mm tenons and only a small bag of 6mm!! Oh well, I'll switch to 25mm depth plunge...

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Looking forward to using the drawer lock at some point!

Yes the 5mm isnt quite as deep thats why I mentioned rabbiting the sides slightly to get a little extra depth if needed. You probably have all your parts cut now so next time. You should still be good. Hopefully you are plunging the domino in from the drawer sides and not front and back.  once you get the domino drawer bugs worked out you will probably never look back.  They are easy, look good and supper strong. I would actually be interested in a strength test compared to dovetail drawers but im to lazy to do it

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I'm actually plunging from the front/rear ... I know plunging from the side would be stronger but I'd planned to use the drawer lock bit and that means the front/rear get cut to 1" less than the opening.  I was hoping that while these aren't as strong in this orientation, that 3 Domino's and slow close drawer slides would prevent the drawer from falling apart?  These boards are the same length so I can still trim it down and rotate if it's better?

I was going to say I'd go back to the drawer lock bit as it would be inconvenient to trim all these boards but now that I've got the Kapex with wings and flag stop I could make quick work of trimming them down!!  [big grin]