Best Jointer for Festoolians?

[Matthew Schenker]

Good Evening,
Dan Clark started it with the "Best Tablesaw" discussion, then it continued with the "Best Bandsaw..."  So why not take a look at jointers?

I'd be curious what members are using in their shops, in terms of jointer size and manufacturer.  Also, how about add-ons like better blades?  How about those of you who don't own a jointer?

I'll start off by saying that I have a Craftsman 6" jointer, one of the newer models.  It's actually a pretty good jointer (I compared it to a Ridgid, Delta, and Jet model before buying).  I added Esta Self-Set Knives a few months ago to speed up blade changes.  I'd say the Estas do what they claim, although I had some issues aligning them initially, which took away some of their benefit.

I've written about this before, but whenever I can I like to use my router table as a jointer.  Certainly, any time I have S4S wood, I joint on the router table.  Even with rough lumber, I will cut off the really crooked stuff on the bandsaw then joint on the router table using a Freud 1/2" diameter bit with a 2 1/2" cutting length, which looks like this:
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Anyone else?

Matthew

 

[dltflt]

I use a 6" Delta.  It has been a good tool for me.  I've thought about upgrading to a spiral cutter with replaceable tips, but the reviews were not good enough to warrant the cost.  What I would really like is an 8" Powermatic Parrallelgram(dreaming).

 

[Fred West]

Matthew, I have a Grizzly 6" Jointer and it is a surprisngly good machine. I bought it for $1 plus a new motor. ;D As good as this machine is I would give my right arm for the room to have at least a 10" jointer. My partner and I often build heirloom quality furniture and having to rip and rebuild is really irritating. Unfortunately we both have 6" jointers and no room. I would love to have a parralleogram jointer. Fred

 

[Corwin]

Why not use a bigger diameter bit?

 

[Scott W.]

I have a 12 inch Bridgewood, bought it used 12+ years ago. I have no idea when it was built.
I just recently installed Dispoz-A-Blade knives in it and have been very satisfied with them.

I also have a 6 inch Delta that is collecting dust since I got the 12 inch. One of my first machine purchases.
I'm hope to come across a young person with the woodworking passion to give my "starter" shop to some day but as of yet haven't found him or her. I have a radial drill press (Delta), the 6 in. jointer, a craftsman contractor saw and 14" band saw, 1.5 hp dust collector, router etc,etc... It's frustrating really, I sacrificed at the time to acquire these when I started setting up shop & now I can't find anyone locally who would "love" to get started - free of charge.

Sorry I got off the subject...
Here is the Jointer I actually use
[attachimg=1]

Scott W.

 

[nickao]

This grizzly at the link below is not a 10", but man what a bang for the buck.  It was 750.00 - now close to 950.00 with shipping. Unless a 10" for 1000.00 comes along I can' t see many jointer's this quality for this price.

Grizzly 8" G0490

 

[Dan Clermont]

Well, I am a hobbiest (who likes nice tools) and my small shop can't support a long, heavy jointer and I have been considering the HL 850 but in the meantime I use this and have been very happy with it. I've gotten quite good at jointing using hand tools and when I get a bigger shop I'll consider a larger jointer but right now this is my tool of choice.

 

[robtonya]

Scott W. I would love to get started ;D ;D. Oh well, thought I would try. I have the benchdog router table for my jointin'.

 

[Matthew Schenker]

Why not use a bigger diameter bit?

Of course, you're supposed to use the widest possible bit for jointing.  I use a 1"-diameter bit sometimes.  However, the maximum length I've been able to find in a 1"-diameter bit is 1 1/2".  I also found a 1 1/4"-diameter bit at MLCS with a 1 1/2" cutting length.  The 1/2"-diameter Freud has a 2 1/2" length, which means I can joint pieces that much wider or thicker.

Even though the rule is to use the widest possible bit, I have not had any problems with the 1/2"-diameter Freud bits.  I usually only joint about 1/64" at a time.  Even when I experimented with a 1/8"-joint on a bit I was about to discard, I found that the 1/2"-diameter bits don't flex.

For me, I love the visibility and precision of jointing on the router table and Incra fence.  I know that having a 10" jointer would open up my possibilities greatly, but I don't have the room for such a machine, and I actually like working with pieces under 6" in width.

I like this setup so much, I was once on a quest to find the longest possible straight bits.  I'd go to woodworking shows and ask those specialty router-bit guys about making a 5" or 6" straight bit.  Of course, they told me "no way."  Oh well, I tried.

Matthew

 

[Ned]

Matthew--

I can see your point about being able to see the work, and I know the fine tuning you can do with an Incra fence.  I am keeping your endorsement in mind while designing my router table.

But... unlike a jointer's cutter, the router bit is only supported at one end.  It is, however minutely, waving around when it's spinning.  And a 5- or 6-inch long cutter?  Scares me!  A larger diameter cutter?  Again, all that mass supported on one end.  Shapers handle big chunks of spinning metal, but the shaft is much larger than 1/2 inch.

I can see a real use for your setup for edge jointing and taking very small cuts on stock not more than, say, an inch (25mm) thick.  Wider work, or deeper cuts, could quickly put the operator into a dangerous situation.

Ned

 

[Fred West]

Scott W., Not a beginner but I am more than willing to take that 12" jointer off of your hands.  ;D I will have to knock down some walls but what the heck it would be worth it. 

Nickao, that 8" Grizzly looks great and I have looked longingly at it but don't even have the room for that one. :'( Fred

 

[John Langevin]

Matt, one possiblilty to extend your jointing capability would be to use a solid carbide spiral (4) flute "Milling Cutter" that has a female center at the cutting end and then come up with a simple overarm with a small male live center to support it. This would eliminate any tool "whip and safely restrain the cutter, while the four flute spiral design should give an excellent surface finish; the solid carbide would allow many resharpenings since size is not critical to the function. It is something I am considering doing with either a vertical or horizontal router orientation. What do you think?

 

[Ned]

...with a small male live center to support it. ...

A quick glance at McMaster shows the live centers rated for only 6,000 rpm, and they typically come with some kind of tapered end for attachment--this wouldn't be easy to deal with without the right reamers ($$$) to make the mating socket.

A long edge-trimming bit with a pilot bearing on the end might work.  The overarm would just have to support the bearing.  The bearing would be smallish for this application, but at least is rated for router speeds.

Ned

 

[bruegf]

Has anyone purchased one of the Sunhill spiral or helical jointer heads and can anyone give me an idea of the pros/cons of the helical vs the spiral head.
http://www.sunhillmachinery.com/store/index.asp?department=2

I've emailed them and it sounds as if they have a one that would fit my Craftsman 6" jointer (I think the same one Matthew has).  Just wondering if its really worth the money

Fred

 

[Scott W.]

Scott W., Not a beginner but I am more than willing to take that 12" jointer off of your hands.  ;D .....

Sorry Fred, The 12in isn'r going anywhere (unless I come across a nice 16 in ) I was talking about the 6" Delta.

Scott W.

 

[Scott W.]

Have any of you guys ever seen a vertical type jointer?

35 years ago when I was in school the school shop had a machine with a tall fence, maybe 12 - 14 inches high.
In the center of the fence was a metal disk with a slot cut in the face around the diameter. Small cutters fit in this slot (I don't recall how many but it seems like maybe 8 -12 cutters around the diameter). It took a cut of maybe 1/32 -1/16 if I remember right.

It had a narrow table maybe 6 inches wide that raised up & down to expose the disk.

It's a little hard to describe. 
I have no Idea who made the machine or what the proper name for it is (probably military surplus, most of the other equipment was), and I have never come across another one.

The thing was slick. I would love to get a look at one now.

Scott W.

 

[Ned]

Scott--

I think what you're remembering is a Rockwell Uniplane.

Don't know anymore than that, but it's a start.

Ned

 

[Scott W.]

Scott--

I think what you're remembering is a Rockwell Uniplane.

Don't know anymore than that, but it's a start.

Ned

Ned,

That's it! 
Man that thing was handy.

Scott W.

 

[nickao]

Scott--

I think what you're remembering is a Rockwell Uniplane.

Don't know anymore than that, but it's a start.

Ned

Ned,

That's it! 
Man that thing was handy.

Scott W.

I think this is it:

uniplane

 

[woodshopdemos]

Mathew,
  I have a long bed jointer, but I still use the router table for edge jointing. I us the 3/4 in CMT bit with helical shaped cutter. I love the way it works. I almost always have 2S2 boards and this setup is all that is needed.