Don't quite understand what you're asking, or maybe inferring. You'd use a purpose built tile chisel for tile or thin veneers of topping compound, with the tool tilted to about 100% (45 deg) to the substrate. Short is good for waist height & above, providing a modicum of control.
The relative weakness of these small "baby" hammers helps here too, preventing inadvertent damage to deeper layers & ejecta, and the light weight of a tiny tool & short chisel allows longer sessions before fatigue demands cessation. Your little hammer will be ideal for this.
But to use a tile-hammer for heavy floor breaking is seriously questionable. I'd be driving to the hire shop instead, even if it is 550km each way, or at least get the tool dropped off &/or returned by your local bus service or freight company. They (the hire shop) will supply the proper (25mm floor) chisel for the job too.
In regard to breaking a 100m square slab by hand: yes, it can be done, but only a fool would try when there's such a variety of superior, inexpensive alternatives available. Firstly, you simply can't use a mason's chisel & sledge simultaneously. I'm astonished, with all due respect to the poster, why somebody would suggest such an impossible task. Simply put, a 10 or 12 lb sledge with a 2-3' handle cannot be wielded, let alone accurately swung, one-handed!
You'd use a club hammer (1 or 2 lb only) with a mason's chisel: something that can be swung safely & accurately single handed! But it would be slow and pretty useless. I've done sufficient hand chasing to realise that hammer & chisel work is only suited to basic, small scale carving & chasing applications. Bigger tasks require mechanical hammers. It's pretty clear to me that suggestions to break a slab with a sledge & chisel so are not just impossible to do, but also dangerous & ill-informed. Don't do it.
Even a sledge (swung alone) is hard work too. My first ever (holiday) job as a schoolboy was breaking rocks on a roadway & drilling with an Ingersoll or Atlas air hammer in a quarry for blasting quartzite gravel. You're absolutely GUARANTEED to burst most if not all your windows with such a coarse and crude tool from fly-rock.
To saw up a floor with either 2-stroke or electric floor saws will be impossibly messy, slow, noisy & expensive, esp. if it's an upstairs floor in a house! Maybe a remote hydraulic-drive saw might possibly work, but what will you do about all that slurry draining unpredictably downstairs through the building's each & every available orifice? Plus it's going to be ludicrously (if not insanely) expensive too.
By all means ignore my advice: but please be aware that I at least am talking from a modicum of experience. I've been using hammers for a variety of tasks for half a century. I've jackhammered & broken multiple thousand tons of concrete & stone, cut, gouged & chased literally kilometers of floors & walls with hammers, chisels, gouges & diamond saws, cut, chiselled and sculpted everything from concrete to granite, bluestone, dolerite, marble & sandstone for construction, renovation, installation, land & water-scaping& even on occasion art, & bored several kilometers of fixing holes for a million odd masonry plugs & screws.
I've used dozens of different types of mechanical hammers, owned nine of my own (currently have six), still using them (but irregularly these days) for all the expected tasks, plus quite a few "unusual" applications like gardening, post-driving, tilling & small-scale excavation.
Yes, I have a bad back. Yes, I have an acute susceptibility to Carpal Tunnel Syndrome & white-finger. Hardly surprising considering all those hundreds of hours of use, misuse & abuse done to my body over the decades at the hands of mechanical hammers. Size the tool for the task. Get, & use, the correct tools for the particular task or suffer the long-term consequences.
Addendum:
I forgot to mention that your proposal to use a short, wide tile chisel in a small-sized L-format chipping hammer to break up a floor will inadvertently force you to work on your knees. Good luck with that!
Here's a possible alternative: self-levelling mix-n-pour screed straight over the top of your undesirable slab. A perfect surface in a day or 2. No jackhammering at all!
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