Best right angle clamp for Kreg joinery?

cliffp

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Jun 22, 2012
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I have just bought a Kreg jig (master system) and want to get a right angle clamp. Can anyone advise which is the best one to go for? I was thinking between the Kreg RAC and the UJK one (I think Bench Dog do a pocket hole clamp which is similar in design to the UJK). In the UK the Kreg one is at least 50% more expensive so I wonder if its worth the extra?
 
Thanks for the responses. Your responses show that I was misunderstanding what the Kreg right angle clamps are for. I had envisaged using them to clamp edge banding on, thinking that they would have the advantage of applying pressure between the pieces rather than just keeping them in alignment. I had wanted to attach edge banding that was slightly thicker so I could trim afterwards and was afraid the face clamps wouldn't work well on two pieces of wood of slightly different thickness. It is good to know of the existence of these mitre products for when I join things at right angle (which I will be wanting to do in due course).
 
Cliff,

  If you are thinking of attaching approximately 20mm thick edge banding using pocket hole screws , the screws should pretty much do the clamping. And you can make it over width and just trim it afterwards. A bar clamp or  pin nails can hold the piece in place while you get the screws started.

Seth
 
Seth, I did think about using a bar clamp for the job but I have to mess about with Bessey extenders (I don't have a clamp big enough on its own) and if I am going to go to that much trouble, I might as well just glue it and leave overnight (I am not in that much of a hurry). What I wasn't sure of was, to what degree the screws would pull it all together really tightly without clamps pulling the pieces together. I was amazed how much torque I needed to apply to my screws to tighten up a 1" bit of white oak edging (I did make sure that both edges were completely straight). I guess oak is just very difficult to screw into.
 
SRSemenza said:
Cliff,

   If you are thinking of attaching approximately 20mm thick edge banding using pocket hole screws , the screws should pretty much do the clamping. And you can make it over width and just trim it afterwards. A bar clamp or  pin nails can hold the piece in place while you get the screws started.

Seth

Or as you schooled me previously, Dominos can keep things straight while setting the pocket screws.
 
Paul G said:
SRSemenza said:
Cliff,

   If you are thinking of attaching approximately 20mm thick edge banding using pocket hole screws , the screws should pretty much do the clamping. And you can make it over width and just trim it afterwards. A bar clamp or  pin nails can hold the piece in place while you get the screws started.

Seth

Or as you schooled me previously, Dominos can keep things straight while setting the pocket screws.

Well, yeah, that too.  [smile]

Seth
 
It's a big reason I bought the domino, I got OK at guessing the drift when hand holding, but really wanted to move beyond close enough. Tested biscuits and they were better but still some wiggle, dominos should end the madness and boost the strength as well.
 
Paul G said:
It's a big reason I bought the domino, I got OK at guessing the drift when hand holding, but really wanted to move beyond close enough. Tested biscuits and they were better but still some wiggle, dominos should end the madness and boost the strength as well.


Yes they will.  I have been using the Domino with pocket screws for my cabinets for a while now and the Domino keeps

everything lined up while I'm screwing the box together.  It's a happy happy process  [big grin]

Eric
 
I hadn't mentioned the Domino for this  because I rarely use  it on edge banding.  I usually just glue , pin at each end to keep it from slipping around and clamp with K-Bodies. I can stack three or four pieces in one group of clamps.

Seth
 
Seth, I have done the same except I don't pin the ends. I gradually tighten it up (with K Revos) and ensure there is a bit of a lip on each side and find this works ok. If I decide not to use Kreg screws, I might invest in a router bit to cut a profile on the two edges to increase the glue area and eliminate movement (this was suggested by Peter Parfitt and every other idea of his I've tried has turned out to be brilliant).
 
Yes, I think the various edge banding router  bit profiles should work very well. I think I need to try a set. I have done the same thing with a tongue and groove set.

I just havn't found the need for pocket screws on edge banding and I don't like having to be concerned about them being seen on the bottom side of a shelf , etc. Even if plugged they don't look too good on an upper shelf, IMO.

I use tons of pocket screws where they can't be seen.

Seth
 
SRSemenza said:
Yes, I think the various edge banding router  bit profiles should work very well. I think I need to try a set. I have done the same thing with a tongue and groove set.

I just havn't found the need for pocket screws on edge banding and I don't like having to be concerned about them being seen on the bottom side of a shelf , etc. Even if plugged they don't look too good on an upper shelf, IMO.

I use tons of pocket screws where they can't be seen.

Seth

I'm lean on longer clamps so pocket screws do the clamping. Thankfully I'm doing mostly paint grade right now so plugs work fine. Stain grade would be another matter entirely. Would love to see that clamping set up you described earlier, just can't wrap my head around it.
 
I took a 24" x 24" piece of MDF, cut off 1" on each side, then glued those two strips to the top making a perfect 90 degree angle. I have yet to assemble something with my Kreg jig that was out of square with this thing. The surface is perfectly flat, and the jig is easily stored away because it is only 1.5" thick. It slips right between my bench's legs.
 
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