andrewwilcox
Member
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2014
- Messages
- 1
… I mean the physical manual, not the contents 
1. The cover of all manuals is generic and has a cut-out that allows you to see part of the first page, which is product specific. Having a generic cover probably makes things less expensive, but the cover itself and the binding in general are really stiff, making the cut-out the weakest point, which is just asking for trouble.
2. It would be great to have a lay flat binding. The current binding is rather stiff, so if you're on page 15, once you let go, your page is lost. You could try to force the manual to stay open, but that's unlikely to work. Given that a "perfect" binding is currently used ('perfect' being a trade term for a binding where all the pages are attached with a big slab of glue), forcing the manual open will eventually lead to pages falling out.
I just spent quite a lot of money on a KS 120. A beautiful machine, perfectly pack — a tool that I will be using for years. It's sad to get a cheap manual that won't stand the test of time.

1. The cover of all manuals is generic and has a cut-out that allows you to see part of the first page, which is product specific. Having a generic cover probably makes things less expensive, but the cover itself and the binding in general are really stiff, making the cut-out the weakest point, which is just asking for trouble.
2. It would be great to have a lay flat binding. The current binding is rather stiff, so if you're on page 15, once you let go, your page is lost. You could try to force the manual to stay open, but that's unlikely to work. Given that a "perfect" binding is currently used ('perfect' being a trade term for a binding where all the pages are attached with a big slab of glue), forcing the manual open will eventually lead to pages falling out.
I just spent quite a lot of money on a KS 120. A beautiful machine, perfectly pack — a tool that I will be using for years. It's sad to get a cheap manual that won't stand the test of time.