Bevel up smoother?
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Ken Nagrod
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Still works. Must be AINAO.
GaryLaroff
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On the Lie-Nielsen blade in my antique Stanley 112 I do NOT use a burr/hook edge. I have a hook on the old Kunz blade I use for rough work. You can add a burr to increase the depth of scraping for rough work such as glue removal.
mouppe
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Thanks, guys, I really appreciate the remarks. I have to finish the inlay on the legs and veneer the aprons next which should be really challenging. I will take some pictures as I go.
One thing to note about the scraper plane is that it seemed to require much more frequent sharpening than a normal plane blade. I am not sure if this is because sapele is a harder wood to work than my usual walnut or cherry, or because the steeper blade angle mean it dulls more quickly, but once the blade becomes dull the plane becomes hard to work and the finish is rougher.
But it is fast. I did all 32 faces in just a couple of hours. I don't think I could have done it as fast with a rotex going from 100 to 150 to 180 to 220 grit, although my arms would have ached a little less the morning after!
Woodguy, according to Lie Nielsen, a hook is optional. They say that if you do put a hook on the blade, you will take a more aggressive cut which is not what I wanted in this case. You will also have more sharpening to do every time as you will have to take off the hook, maybe drop down to 1000 grit to clean up the blade geometry and then hone at 4000 and 8000 grit. I just rehoned the blade at 8000 every time. Took just a few passes each time and the edge is good again.
Richard.
One thing to note about the scraper plane is that it seemed to require much more frequent sharpening than a normal plane blade. I am not sure if this is because sapele is a harder wood to work than my usual walnut or cherry, or because the steeper blade angle mean it dulls more quickly, but once the blade becomes dull the plane becomes hard to work and the finish is rougher.
But it is fast. I did all 32 faces in just a couple of hours. I don't think I could have done it as fast with a rotex going from 100 to 150 to 180 to 220 grit, although my arms would have ached a little less the morning after!
Woodguy, according to Lie Nielsen, a hook is optional. They say that if you do put a hook on the blade, you will take a more aggressive cut which is not what I wanted in this case. You will also have more sharpening to do every time as you will have to take off the hook, maybe drop down to 1000 grit to clean up the blade geometry and then hone at 4000 and 8000 grit. I just rehoned the blade at 8000 every time. Took just a few passes each time and the edge is good again.
Richard.
mouppe
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Legs ready for finishing. Now I'm veneering the aprons and sides. This is the fun bit.
The eight finished legs. The main inlay is Karelian Birch from Scandinavia.
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A good tip is to bevel the bottom of your legs as early on as possible in any project. This will avoid chipping if they catch on the floor, table edge etc.
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Here is the little side piece already veneered. The sides and apron are to be veneered from a single sheet so the grain will wrap continuously around the sideboard. Old school meets new school- all the joinery is done with the domino.
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My old school vacuum press setup. This is the front apron in the press. I use white glue for veneering which has always worked well for me in the past.
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The eight finished legs. The main inlay is Karelian Birch from Scandinavia.
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A good tip is to bevel the bottom of your legs as early on as possible in any project. This will avoid chipping if they catch on the floor, table edge etc.
[attachthumb=#]
Here is the little side piece already veneered. The sides and apron are to be veneered from a single sheet so the grain will wrap continuously around the sideboard. Old school meets new school- all the joinery is done with the domino.
[attachthumb=#]
My old school vacuum press setup. This is the front apron in the press. I use white glue for veneering which has always worked well for me in the past.
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Ken Nagrod
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Richard, hopefully Shane shows this thread to Christian who asks you to be a guest instructor every so often at their training facilities. This is a good sales pitch for them since it shows how someone can create such beautiful pieces with traditional hand tools and Festool products. I think Brice should be forced to be the first student since he just LOVES working with hand tools. [big grin]
mouppe
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Thanks, guys. It's all coming together now. As well as the hand tools, I think I have used every Festool I own on this project!
I used my ETS 125 for the first time on the birch inlay and it was amazing. I know some people on the FOG have mixed feelings about this sander, but I started with Brilliant 180 then 220 and within a few seconds I had a great finish and was never in danger of burning through the veneer. It's a really gentle sander but the finish is perfect.
I used my ETS 125 for the first time on the birch inlay and it was amazing. I know some people on the FOG have mixed feelings about this sander, but I started with Brilliant 180 then 220 and within a few seconds I had a great finish and was never in danger of burning through the veneer. It's a really gentle sander but the finish is perfect.
Richard, that is looking really good. A couple of questions,
The inlay that goes around the top of the leg, did you make it or buy it ?
You say you sanded the top inlay. Were you not worried about cross contamination of dust from the dark to the light ? Was this not the point of the scraper plane ?
Not criticizing, just wondered why. Looking forward to seeing this one progress.
Woodguy
Oh, I'm sure Rick is fine with you hijacking his thread [big grin]
The inlay that goes around the top of the leg, did you make it or buy it ?
You say you sanded the top inlay. Were you not worried about cross contamination of dust from the dark to the light ? Was this not the point of the scraper plane ?
Not criticizing, just wondered why. Looking forward to seeing this one progress.
Woodguy
Oh, I'm sure Rick is fine with you hijacking his thread [big grin]
mouppe
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woodguy7 said:
Woodguy, I bought the inlay.
Also, I wasn't worried about dust in the top inlay because the area is so much larger that if the edges did become blurred you would not be able to notice it. The burls also have dark streaks in them which would hide any crossover.
With the 1/16" inlay on the legs, I had to keep the lines crisp or you would easily see it. As it happened, I did scrape some areas but burls are so delicate that I preferred to go with the ETS.
GaryLaroff
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Richard,
It would be nice to see a close-up of the store bought banding. Are you fully satisfied with it? I am about to set up the jigs to make my own banding. Thicker parts will be solid ebony and holly but the the thin black and white will be black dyed pearwood veneer and white sycamore veneer. It just drives me nuts that at least 2/3 of the glued-up blank will be turned in to sawdust when the table saw is used to cut individual strips from the blank.
Also, when dealing with black and white inlaid strips next to each other, a spit coat of shellac concentrating it on the banding strips before sanding with the ETS 125 and above average vacuum suction will usually eliminate cross contamination. The sanding will remove the shellac which is probably what you were going to use for a finish anyway.
Gary
It would be nice to see a close-up of the store bought banding. Are you fully satisfied with it? I am about to set up the jigs to make my own banding. Thicker parts will be solid ebony and holly but the the thin black and white will be black dyed pearwood veneer and white sycamore veneer. It just drives me nuts that at least 2/3 of the glued-up blank will be turned in to sawdust when the table saw is used to cut individual strips from the blank.
Also, when dealing with black and white inlaid strips next to each other, a spit coat of shellac concentrating it on the banding strips before sanding with the ETS 125 and above average vacuum suction will usually eliminate cross contamination. The sanding will remove the shellac which is probably what you were going to use for a finish anyway.
Gary
