BF/MFT Build

AtomicRyan

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I’ve still gotta lot of work to do and plan to make a video of the build when I’m done, but figured you guys would get a kick out of this early look... essentially, it’s a 4x8 80/20 based MFT table with lots and lots of systainer ports.
 

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I will be building something similar in the next few months. Really looking forward to your video/more info. Yours came out really well.
 
Great job, Ryan!  You definitely have the bug!

Look forward to the video and hopefully more details on the bill of materials and potentially plans.

Already looking at the casters on it and wondering about them -

neil
 
Finished the large end cap drawers today...

 

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[member=63929]AtomicRyan[/member] what are you using for the drawer fronts.
 
3/4” Baltic birch faced with arctic white laminate... I just used some extruded aluminum for drawer pulls.

They are close to 45” wide and all I had on hand was some 100-pound residential slides, but I put two slides on each side of the bottom drawers. They don’t rack at all, but time will tell if they hold up to the weight. I figure each drawer will weigh around 75 pounds once loaded.
 
I decided to dedicate one side of the bench to sys 4s and above... As such, I had a little room for 4.5” drawers. This is gonna work out nicely I think.

Also, super tempted to do kaizen foam.

 

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Oh snap :)

Did you use Orange Aluminum drawer pulls?

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Dusty.Tools said:
Oh snap :)

Did you use Orange Aluminum drawer pulls?

bbc2843bb1e13982a0e2a9f37270295e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did.... The extrusion I used wasn’t exactly what I was looking for, but they seem to be the only game in town with reasonable prices.
 
AtomicRyan said:
Dusty.Tools said:
Oh snap :)

Did you use Orange Aluminum drawer pulls?

bbc2843bb1e13982a0e2a9f37270295e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did.... The extrusion I used wasn’t exactly what I was looking for, but they seem to be the only game in town with reasonable prices.
Yeah their prices are hard to beat!

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This is silly, but... How about a vintage dog hole placed machine lamp? It’s actually pretty handy...

 

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AtomicRyan said:
This is silly, but... How about a vintage dog hole placed machine lamp? It’s actually pretty handy...
Nice lamp! Did you buy it online?

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Dusty.Tools said:
AtomicRyan said:
This is silly, but... How about a vintage dog hole placed machine lamp? It’s actually pretty handy...
Nice lamp! Did you buy it online?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s a restored 1940s era Craftsman (I think?) machine lamp.
 
Ryan,

It's cool to see what you've accomplished here. I can't imagine ever having the shop space for something like this but I enjoyed seeing the thought process behind all of the 8020 construction. Some day I'll build with aluminum profiles but I can't commit to them until I know I won't change my mind on what I want out of them.

You started in on the Festool path the same time as me and I really liked watching your first video you did at the time. It all seemed so complex at the time but looking back a few years after tackling my own projects it really is simple stuff once your wrap your head around all these german tools. Funny how that works.

I come from a mechanical background too, mostly motorcycle related, and am having fun with the woodworking journey. I'm just about finished with plantation shutters for the house and every step of the way has been something new and challenging that I haven't attempted before. Lots of head banging on the wall but it has been worth it.

I recall you stating this all was meant to ultimately be for kitchen cabinets for the house. Are you still pursuing that goal?
 
Nice build. The only real issue I have with 80/20 (or similar compatible aluminium extrusions) is the price.

Should I upgrade my crude hacked together shop drawer thingies in the way the OP did I would use the Item Automatic Fasteners, these are not that much more expensive but don't require drilling the extrusions near the end - just screw it into the channel from the end, add the screw through the installed sleeve into the T-nut, slide that into the destination profile, tighten screw and be done with it. Also removeable/reuseable in case you want to restructure, then not having a hole drilled near the end can be a benefit (in case you need to shorten the piece only a little).
You might know these fasteners from your MFS, should you have one.
 
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