Bit suggestion for curved finger pull

4nthony

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Feb 23, 2021
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I'm trying to accomplish inset pulls like this:

Byrd78.75Sideboard.jpg_800800_2023-05-04_10-25-27.png


The thickness of my doors and drawers are 18mm. I'm making a curved jig and will use either a guide bushing or a bit with a bearing to hog out the material and follow the curve. I'll probably remove about 10-12 mm of material.

What I'm not sure about is the bit to add a cove to the vertical face of the curve.

Whiteside, and just about every other bit maker, has finger pull bits but they all have this extra curve:

6024_-_Whiteside_Machine_Company_2023-05-04_12-00-21.png


I want to keep the edge crisp if possible but can't find a bit that only makes the inside of the pull.

Any suggestions?
 
Thinking about it, I could alter the depth so that curve isn't cutting but that doesn't leave much room for error.
 
Yes that's how I do it if I don't want the top round. Remove most of the waste with a straight bit and then use the drawer pull bit at a single height without touching the height setting. Although no room for error it's not very difficult. I do this operation at 7.10 and forward in this video.
=492s
 
I’m going to thank you for this question.  The only time I ever used a “profile scraper” is for interior bead on Shaker cabinet doors. 

I forgot about that and I have been using a router bit to make 1/16” radius round over.  Because of the small radius they can’t use a ball bearing and have just a steel bearing.  Try as I might, if I stop progress for even an instant the bearing burns a divot in the profile.

In any case, the scratchers are exceptionally easy to use, make no dust and made me feel like a real craftsman. 

The last time I did this I made the scraper out of an old hacksaw blade.  I will see if I can buy one this time.  Otherwise I will make another tonight. 

I used the scraper to add a bead to the inside profile on a cabinet door.  It worked fine.

Take a look here:
https://www.google.com/search?q=scratch+stock+scraper&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwir08jPr9z-AhV9FmIAHawWBRMQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=scratch+stock+scraper&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzoGCAAQCBAeOgUIABCABDoICAAQgAQQsQM6BwgAEIoFEEM6CggAEIoFELEDEEM6CAgAELEDEIMBOgYIABAFEB46BwgAEBgQgAQ6BAgAEB5QhK1DWNzARGCHx0RoBHAAeAKAAd9FiAHpuQGSAQ4yMS4xMC4xMi4xLjktMpgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1nsAEAwAEB&sclient=img&ei=_gNUZKvcHv2siLMPrK2UmAE&bih=728&biw=1144&client=firefox-b-1-m

Note:  You are shaving off thin cuts at a time.  It took two or three passes to made the inside bead as I recall.  So you want to get as close to the final shape as possible before using the scratch scraper.

Note:  I’m not finding the profile.  I will probably make one from a hacksaw blade using my Dremel.

Good luck.
 
Another option might be the male portion of a sash set.

Something like this but it might take a couple of passes to get the depth.
https://factorydirectsupplyonline.c...organic&utm_campaign=shopping&utm_content=CMT+855.802.11+Ovolo+Sash+Set+1/2-Inch+Shank+1-1/4-Inch+Diameter&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=19726037404&utm_content=&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr82iBhCuARIsAO0EAZyLq-4SGMjy-iuS5uxkIVaU2263ylOQFQpiU1Z6MFGJJSTTIRVD9cEaAoWPEALw_wcB

If you have acccess to a shaper, getting a custom knife done isn’t as expensive as you might think.

 
If you leave a crisp edge on a finger pull won't it get worn, or split fibres over time, depending on the level of usage?
 
Thanks for the feedback!

After watching Ola's video -- very creative use of the hardwood insert in the MDF! -- and looking at the other suggested bits, it got me thinking that as long as I have a bit with a wider/deeper shoulder (?) I should be able to simply route off the rounded edge in the event it creeps around to the front.

99-007__Router_CNC__Door__Window__Door_Pull_2023-05-04_14-13-42.png


I'll need to plan for it with the right size guide bushing and make plenty of test cuts.

The Freud bit suggested by Jeff is wider than the Whiteside which should make it an easier cut.

luvmytoolz said:
If you leave a crisp edge on a finger pull won't it get worn, or split fibres over time, depending on the level of usage?

It might. I'll probably end up having to soften it by hand.
 
It's laminated.  Straight through hole for front edge.  Then come back with a WHITESIDE #6032 from the back using that straight cut on the bearing.  If you're not laminating the entire back, then pocket out the patch and then add the backer piece.

* You can adjust how deep the pull lip is doing it this way.
 
not sure if its same as what you are looking to do but take a look at this video
 
festal said:
not sure if its same as what you are looking to do but take a look at this video

That solution requires a 2 piece construction to avoid a through hole and there are quite some steps involved in making those grips. Template and drawer pull bit will solve this in a elegant and simpler way.
 
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