Blade to cross cut Maple countertop with TS55?

[Gabeloooooo]

Hi,

I've been ripping rough 8/4 maple with the panther blade on the TS55 and it eats it like butter. But that is in the past and the countertop is jointed, glued, sanded, etc.

All that is left is to crosscut to final length. I'm wondering which blade would give me the best finish? Countertop is hard maple, 1.5 inch thick, cross cut is 28 inches long. I want to make sure I don't burn this seeing as this will be visible at all times!

Thanks!

 

[Brice Burrell]

I think the 28T universal blade might be your best shot.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

General rule of thumb, more teeth equals finer (but slower) cut. The TS has electronics that keep the blade speed constant, so there should never be burning.

 

[tbellemare]

I've used the Universal Blade (stock blade) with the TS 75 to cut Boos Hard Rock Maple countertops at full rotational speed and never burned.

Tom

 

[Gabeloooooo]

Great. I'll try with the 48 that comes with the TS55 then (right after getting it sharpened). I'll try full speed and see what happens!

 

[Timtool]

I did something similar this weekend on an oak table with a 24T blade, went fine in one pass with no burning or chips. But then maple may be harder, so you may want to do it in 3 passes. I also have done that before and if your rail is clamped then you can't see where each pass was on the wood
But you probably should have done this before the sanding, there will be sanding to do any way on the cut side.

 

[Gabeloooooo]

Numerous passes make a lot of sense, but I wonder if that doesn't facilitate burning (blade will rub, albeit slightly, the wood 3 times)?

As for sanding, I still need to do the last orbital pass with the rotex, so I'm hoping I should be ok to touch up everything at that point.

 

[semenza]

Make a test cut  a little longer than you need just to be sure the results are what you want.

Seth

 

[Gabeloooooo]

Make a test cut  a little longer than you need just to be sure the results are what you want.

You bet! I'd never dare do anything final without testing first I was really just wondering what the recommendations were, blade and speed wise.

 

[tiralie]

Just make sure it's a sharp blade, and you should have no problem. I just made 45 degree cut in  7" wide x 1 1/2" maple board joined to a veneered panel and burned the crap out of both the solid stock and chipboard.

Should be no problem in one pass with a sharp blade.
Tim

 

[Gabeloooooo]

True that! When the 48t blade is not sharp, it burns even 5/8 oak!

 

[Timtool]

Just cut it too large, and if the cut is good, then do it again at the final dimension. But don't cut too close to the final line, i find it encourages splintering!

 

[Pdevore]

I would cut it to within a 1/16" and then set up my router with the down spirl bit to bring it in to the final size.
I am doing this right now with a 4'x9' solid oak table that I and edging with 2"x2" hard maple. I no longer have a joiner and am using my of1400 with this set up to prep for joining the 2. And right now I wish a had a domino to secure. Biscuits are so yesterday. .

Pete

 

[Gabeloooooo]

I would cut it to within a 1/16" and then set up my router with the down spirl bit to bring it in to the final size.
I am doing this right now with a 4'x9' solid oak table that I and edging with 2"x2" hard maple. I no longer have a joiner and am using my of1400 with this set up to prep for joining the 2.

Have you more details on that setup? Bit used, OF setup (on or off rail, etc.)?

I've to clean up th edge of my 11 feet countertop as well down the line. of1400 might be easier than on the jointer...

 

[Gabeloooooo]

Update with results:

Cross cut 1.5 inch hard maple, TS55 with stock blade (48t) full speed, fresh out of the shop (sharp): no burning, went smoothly.

Ripcut: Burned and struggled. Next time, I'll use the panther (like butter) and sand smooth (it is against the wall anyway, the front gets the jointer treatment.)

 

[Chems]

It might not be the blade at all. It could be that as you cut the wood its squeezing the blade ever so slightly and that's causing the burn. Even with a riving knife it can happen. I'd cut 3mm oversized and then trim again at final size to avoid that. If its still burning its gotta be the blade.

 

[peter halle]

The 48 tooth is not a ripping blade although it may work in certain situations.  As you said the Panther blade (true ripping) would work, but if you have the 28 tooth blade that might also work with a smoother cut than the Panther.

Peter

 

[Gabeloooooo]

Yep, panther has NO trouble whatsoever ripping it. How would you recommend cleaning up the edge afterwards though? Small piece like this is easy enough to put on the jointer, but next countertop will be 9' long, then another is 11' long! (Was thinking some sort of OF1400 trick?)

 

[peter halle]

What rail lengths do you have and what 1400 accessories?  I guess specifically do you have a combination of rail(s) and joiners long enough for your longest counter?  The router guide rail adaptor?  If so you could easily use a router bit to trim the front edge.  If joining rails you would definitely want to make sure that the assembly was straight.  You might want to make multiple passes at less than full depth and watch your feed rate.

Just my line of thinking anyway.

Peter

 

[Gabeloooooo]

I've plenty of rail for the job, which bit would you recommend?