BowClamp Review

[ericbuggeln]

Here are some pics of guys using threaded rod in conjunction with the Bowclamps to make a press. Seems like a really easy mod to make the Bowclamps even more versatile.

I hear this metal jig for the rod will be in production soon...Eric

 

[ericbuggeln]

This is what I'm excited about. Clamping in "no mans land" where traditional clamps can't get. This example a spacer is used on the mid rail in order to bring a Bowclamp over the top. I don't know any other way to do that? Eric

 

[PeterK]

I really love the cauls. Have been so very useful when clamping across a cabinet or some other wide/long object. I get plenty of compression pressure to meet my needs and the glue joints are very even and pulled up nice and tight. Makes my projects so much lighter to move around after clamping not having a pile of big Besseys adding a hundred pounds!!

Maybe if I was building a structure I might want more compression pressure to possibly get a stronger glue joint. So far, I have had zero issues with any joints separating. Seems that in furniture type building that a nice even glue line with sufficient amount of glue with squeeze out provides more than enough adhesion. Now if I was building a structural bridge or load bearing laminated beam ---------

 

[Tinker]

In using the BowClamps with the MFT with clamps going thru the MFT holes, how much force can be applied before disfiguring/damaging the table top?  If the clamps are right up tight to the cabinet being clamped, i would think the pressure could be almost limitless.  Some of the setups show the clamps to be several inches out away from the object.  Wouldn't there be a problem with clamping presure limits?

When I was in HS, I made an inlayed card table.  Several others in the class followed me, but i was the first one to do the project.  We had nothing like Bow Clamps so I designed (with assistance in design from my shop teacher) a press using white oad beams and heavy screws.  It took 9 or a dozen screws along three beams.(Three above and three below)  we used double layers of oak planks (two rows above and two rows below), 90º opposition to each layer against the veneer to even the pressure. It actually took me longer to build the press than to build the table.  What a time saver these BowClamps would have been.

How did the table turn out?  I was the first in class to try gluing a completely veneered table top.  i made all of the mistooks for everybody else.  It took me too long to mix and spread the old hyde glue and by the time the press was applied, i ended up with bubbles all over the top.  I kept the table on display for others in class to see all that could go wrong and I explained why. I helped the others who followed, but mine came out the very worst of the bunch.  [unsure]

I still have that table >>> in my attic.  My daughter wants it, [huh] bubbles and all.  I have been told by a couple of sources that I can straighten the top out with a raiser blade, lots of patience, a little glue and a steady hand. A very steady hand I would guess. I am thinking that i might eventually get a set of Bow clamps and give them a try on that old table. 

BTW:  the border of the inlay was Cherry.  The 4 squares of the main field were all BirdsEye Maple.  The cherry came out fine.  The Bird's Eye Maple is where the problems are.  I think there were at least 2 dozen bubbles about size of quarters +/-  With the combination of birds eye maple and the bubbles, i just tell people it is all part of the texture : 8)
Tinker

 

[Rick Christopherson]

I still have that table >>> in my attic.  My daughter wants it, [huh] bubbles and all.  I have been told by a couple of sources that I can straighten the top out with a raiser blade, lots of patience, a little glue and a steady hand. A very steady hand I would guess. I am thinking that i might eventually get a set of Bow clamps and give them a try on that old table.  

I'm not an expert with hide glue, but I believe you should be able to repair the bubbled areas by applying heat and pressure with a clothes iron. I'm not sure how much heat it takes (temp setting on the iron), but you should be able to find that on the internet. Just make sure to continue to apply pressure while it cools back down. (Use a roller or even hand pressure. Don't take the time to set up clamps. That would take too long and the glue would already be cooled again.)

 

[ericbuggeln]

The following pics show how you can use the MFT and Bowclamps to create a veneer press or like in this demo just laminate something together. I am really running out of scrap, so what you see is some exterior grade plywood and a 1970s press board shelf being laminated together. If you wanted to do veneer you would need MDF sandwiched in. You can use the groove in the Bowclamp if the holes in the MFT line up for you, but if not you can just come over the top. I used two 36"s and a 48". This is one of the reasons why the Master Set is such a good investment. Eric

 

[Tinker]

Thanks Rick.  Now you mention it, many moons ago, a friend of mine was in furniture repair biz and I now recall he had mentioned something like that. 

As i recall, the problem with original construction had been not heating the glue enough, or not adding the proper amount of water, too wet or too dry and I think there may have been some lumps in the mix.  Later, after i got out of school and introduced to the school of hard knocks, i learned the importance of mixing properly, in fact the mixes had to be perfect the first time.  I learned how to mix white coat plaster using "hot' lime.  I really learned about discipline on several levels with that stuff.  i don't think i was paying that close attention with the hyde glue. 

Do you have an idea how hot the iron should be?  THE BOSS has a steam iron.  Should steam be used along with heat?
Tinker

 

[Rick Christopherson]

Tinker,
I actually keep an inexpensive iron in the workshop specifically for woodworking. It works great for applying hot-glue edge banding for both melamine and real-wood edging. That's obviously a different application, but I keep the temperature at about 200 degrees (bottom of the steam-setting range on the dial).

Your situation is different because you probably already have a finish on your table and you need to be more careful about the temperature than unfinished wood. In your case, I think I would sneak up on the temperature. Start low and work your way up to ensure you don't damage the finish. See what temperature and duration of heating is sufficient to press the laminate back down.

A lower temperature will allow you to dwell over the area longer and apply more force. A higher temperature may require you to move faster.

No! By all means, do not use steam. That doesn't mean the iron can't be set to a temperature in the steam range. It just means that you do not want water in the iron's reservoir.

When I am applying edge banding, I touch the iron with a block of paraffin wax (candle wax) for lubrication. This may or may not be a good tip for you depending on the type of finish on the table already. If the finish is thin and the pores are exposed, then you may not want to do this. If the finish is a thicker build, then this may help, because it can be wiped off. Conversely, for a thin finish, then a cloth separator would be good. But for a thicker finish, a cloth separator may leave a weave pattern in the finish.

 

[ericbuggeln]

To get back on topic, here is a video of Craig applying edge banding with Bowclamps, bench dogs, and shims, enjoy, Eric

 

[ericbuggeln]

Here's a little trick that Craig came up with that will win you some friends with the ladies....

 

[ericbuggeln]

Bench done with two 4'ers on each side, Eric

 

[Tinker]

To get back on topic, here is a video of Craig applying edge banding with Bowclamps, bench dogs, and shims, enjoy, Eric

Hey Eric, Sorry about that.
I assure you it will NEVER happen again.  :

Rick,
Peter Haile started a conversation in the Hobbies and Projects section that has some info about hide glue, among other subjects.
His discussion:  "A website I stumbled upon for woodworkers" I discovered some of what was probably my problem.  I am discussing over there.  Don't want to get Eric excited to where he might figure another use for those Bow Clamps  [scared]
Tinker

 

[ericbuggeln]

Hey Wayne, no foul meant. Was just trying to keep a review thread on topic, Eric

 

[Tinker]

No offence was taken.  just so long as I can't find a long bed lathe in your shop, i know you are using the Bow Clamps only for cabinetry  [unsure]

BTW: A great job on the Paulk Bench (oops!  There I go again  )  How 'bout another review on them----  and the Roman Racks look very worthwhile as well.  There, i have used up my two more off topics. (But you show them here so it doesn't really count  ) It WILL SHOULD NEVER HAPPEN AGAIN.  [blink]
Tinker

 

[ericbuggeln]

Wayne, since I know you are glued to your computer waiting for another use of the Bowclamps to be posted, here it is. This is a veneer press that could also be done on an MFT.

Romans jigs are still in prototype phase and more on them to come. They will be stackable so many doors at once can be glued up at once. More on them to come....

I already did a thread on the UWB. It's way better then you thought it was gonna be. If you want I will post some pics of it in action and specifically the new way I am doing dominoing of FFs and carcasses?

 

[Tinker]

What kind of glue are you using with such large sheet of veneer?
Tinker

 

[ericbuggeln]

Wayne, that's a piece that Craig did, but I will find out for you. Whatever it is he probably rolls it on, Eric

 

[ericbuggeln]

Wayne, it was just TiteBond 2 and a cheap paint roller, Eric

 

[mouppe]

I made a video about how I have been making solid wood shelves with a TS55 and a Domino using a match planing technique, and I ended it with a demonstration of the Bowclamps in a glue up. Relevant part starts at about 8.20.

 

[ericbuggeln]

Richard, thanks for sharing. You did a great job, very informative. I love seeing how other guys do it.

Were you using the Panther blade? Eric