Bridging when spraying cabinet doors

Jeff2413

Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2011
Messages
72
Anyone have a good means of dealing with bridging?  Where the finish connects between the panel and the frame of the door.  I'm going to speak to my cousin who owns a really large cabinet shop hopefully this week about the issue but wanted input from fellow FOG members. 

It doesn't happen on every door or even all the way around the door but occasionally you get that horrible look of the door being caulked. I typically apply multiple thin coats of pre-cat lacquer or post cat (tinted) and I've also ran into the issue with the waterborne products.

My fix currently is a razor knife after the products dries but before it cures completely.  This is ok as long as you are paying very close attention to what you are doing as the knife blade will follow the grain and not the crack and completely ruin your afternoon. 

Thanks in advance guys/gals!
 
Sounds to me too like you applied too much paint. We typically sprayed in layers of 60 micron thickness, and this left no traceable build up in the corners, not even after 4 layers. General philosophy with spraying is that a few thin coats are better than one thick coat.
 
Alex said:
Sounds to me too like you applied too much paint. We typically sprayed in layers of 60 micron thickness, and this left no traceable build up in the corners, not even after 4 layers. General philosophy with spraying is that a few thin coats are better than one thick coat.
That's 2.46 mils and most materials are in the 3-4 mils range.  So that's considered a thin coat?
 
wptski said:
Alex said:
Sounds to me too like you applied too much paint. We typically sprayed in layers of 60 micron thickness, and this left no traceable build up in the corners, not even after 4 layers. General philosophy with spraying is that a few thin coats are better than one thick coat.
That's 2.46 mils and most materials are in the 3-4 mils range.  So that's considered a thin coat?

Have to ask---Are we talking wet microns or dry microns-wet mils or dry mils? Two very different things.

I spray top coats @ 4 wet mils in most circumstances. Dry mils will fall between 0.8-1.3.

To the original post----there may be a slightly larger gap between the panel and the rail or style where it is bridging.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Have to ask---Are we talking wet microns or dry microns-wet mils or dry mils? Two very different things.

I spray top coats @ 4 wet mils in most circumstances. Dry mils will fall between 0.8-1.3.

Tom
Do you have a dry mil paint thickness gauge?  Besides, who'd wait to measure dry mil paint thickness only to find out that you sprayed too heavy or thin?  I think everyone here is talking wet film thickness.
 
Ive been having the same issue on all of my shaker style doors which this reveal is the most noticeable on.  Again like you said its not consistent all around and just builds up in certain areas.  I've also tried the razor or even a sharp chisel in between each coat to clean it out.  Which is not something I want to do on every job and every door.  I was looking at a different shaker style door and noticed that the spacing between the panel and door rail/stiles was a bit larger than mine.  I am thinking that cutting a tiny notch along the rails and stiles may help this.  I will run a few test on this thought.  I know it will be time consuming but so is cleaning it out between coats.   
 
Jeff2413 said:
Anyone have a good means of dealing with bridging? 

Generally I encounter this on doors that I have contracted out to be made. Only way I have found is to sand slightly under the stile and rail edge with the point of a DTS 400 or hand sand with some fold sandpaper to open up the seam.

Tim
 
wptski said:
tjbnwi said:
Have to ask---Are we talking wet microns or dry microns-wet mils or dry mils? Two very different things.

I spray top coats @ 4 wet mils in most circumstances. Dry mils will fall between 0.8-1.3.

Tom
Do you have a dry mil paint thickness gauge?  Besides, who'd wait to measure dry mil paint thickness only to find out that you sprayed too heavy or thin?  I think everyone here is talking wet film thickness.

BM100.

Tom
 
Exactly what I did.  Last job I finishes had I think 17 drawer/doors that I built.  Took a worn pc of Abranet 80 and made 2 wipes on the underside of the profiles sticking and they turned out perfect.  Finishes with precat tinted lacquer and the lines are consistent with zero bridging issues. 
 
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