Building a table saw, need advice

[Vaskerville]

Actually, all I'm doing is replacing the table top on my table saw because the current one is too small and I don't like the surface (it's not that smooth).

I'll be replacing the top with mdf (something slick) but the problem I have is that the grooves for the various jigs (cross cut sled, etc) in the table won't be particular slick as it's simply wood. I'm living in Africa, I can't just run to the hardware store and buy something - I have to improvise with what I have.

I'm wondering if anybody has any suggestions/experience with this kind of scenario. Would wood wax help? Or, perhaps painting the grooves with a glossy paint?

I should add that I only have one sheet of mdf (I brought it from Europe in the move - I can't get more of it here). The standard plywood here is not so good (it works when you really need it and that's about it - it's rather soft though).

 

[semenza]

No way to sand, smooth or slicken up the existing top?  Course that won't make it bigger......hmmmmm.

Maybe add a metal channel? But I guess it could be tough to get the right size?

Seth

 

[Vaskerville]

That's what I was thinking too. Before I start on this I'll spend some time scouring the toolshops here and see what I can find. I was hoping somebody had a magic ointment I could rub on it - haha.

I can buy things when I'm in Europe but I'm only there a few times each year...it's not easy buying everything at once and getting it home in your spare suitcase.

 

[Alan m]

im not sure mdf would be a good choice but if it was supported properly and covered in a laminate4 then it should be ok. as for the slots, i would get some dense plastic (high molecular weight) and rout it in flush with the top before you laminate it . then rout a slot in it for the miter gauge.
maybe incra or kreg(i think kreg do one with a t track aswell) do an aluminium channel designed for miter gauges

 

[Jay Knoll]

I'd go at the existing tablesaw top with a sandpaper on a big wood block, keep it as flat as possible and knock off any high spots you may have.  I"d start with 220 and go up/down in grits depending on how bad the top is.  Then wax it (and the grooves) with paste wax.
While you're doing that I would also suggest sealing the MDF REALLY well -- you don't want it changing shape on you if it gets wet and/or picks up moisture from a humid environment (don't know where you are in Africa).

Now, inset your existing saw into the MDF to get the desired tabletop size.  Add necessary supports.

Get some nice hard wood, teak comes to mind,  dado out some strips in line with your miter gauge slots -- maybe 2 inches wide by 1/2" thick,  glue in the strips and plane/sand flush.

Make a jig to hold your router with a runner that fits into your miter gauge slot. Use that to extend the slots into the teak strips you just inset into the MDF  

Finish the top, wax and you should be good to go.

We will, of course, want pictures of whatever you come up with

Good luck!

Jay

 

[Vaskerville]

Ah, that's very interesting about the teak inset...nice idea.

We're in western Africa - Mauritania. We have two decent kinds of wood: frague - which is a kind of hardish teak-like wood and redwood-like padauk.

If I can't find some metal this would be the way to go.

I'm having a Festool 1400 brought to us (via Brussels) next week. We've been unable to find any routers for sale here...you can't imagine all the things that are lacking in a place like this.

Thanks for the great suggestion.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I built my own table saw out of MDF too. At least the top was MDF. Never treated it with anything and now 14 years later it's still in perfect condition. I solved the problem with the grooves by lining them with aluminium strips. I made sure to fit them very precisely so there wouldn't be any sloppiness. And then applied some grease to make them run smooth.

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[Vaskerville]

Very nice, Alex.