Building My Own Large MFT-- Input regarding Guide Rails.

Jim: I didn't intend to hijack your thread here; I just thought you might find the hint on running the holes for the larger table helpful.

I'm also looking at extrusions for my sides, and I'm of a couple of minds on it. One option for me would be the Woodpeckers super track. With a little creativity that can be used as a side vice, and of course anything that fits T-Track will fit that.

The other option I'm considering is the OpenBuilds 80/20 V-slot. That would let me add a dismountable gantry; I'm thinking ahead about CNC milling applications, and the extrusion can still be used for clamping.
 
Just make sure your clamps fit your track.  I went through 3 different tracks before finding the incra track fits the festool clamps.

On my top I ended up sinking the top to be flush with the t-tracks.  I can't cut into the top now but that's OK as I like the clamping on the top rails better then in the MFT itself. 



 
Brad: Placing the T-Tracks that way is an interesting choice. I was debating doing something similar, but I was very concerned about hitting the track with a saw and decided to hold off. I suspect that I'll end up routing away "submerged" areas of the MDF for cross cuts and rip cuts, or just use the same part of the table when I do those cuts.

How is the mix working out for you? And given you say you prefer clamping on T-Track, what use do you still find yourself making of the holey table?

- Jonathan
 
Just a quick follow-up on my MFT hole pattern method. I've now run the holes down both sides of the long edges. The FS-1400 rail let me do 12 holes at 96mm separations, then shift it down to do the next four holes for a total of 16. Using the LR-32 edge guides to maintain distance from the table edge and the router bit itself to get the rail positioned exactly at a previous hole worked beautifully.

On the first side (the one with the holes that will be kept), I measured about a 1/2mm error to the table edge, but after measuring some other places I actually think that's a defect in the straightness of the MDF. If there's an error in the 96mm intervals I can't measure it, and I can't find any mis-alignment of the holes with a straight-edge.

On the second side (the one in the overhang waste), I realized halfway through the first 12 holes that I had neglected to clamp one side of the rail. No deviation I can measure on the 96mm intervals, and no deviation I can see from a straight-edge. I do think that clamping one end of the rail mattered, because the process of shifting the router down the rail does involve a slight amount of "jerk" when the latch engages. Not a lot, but perhaps enough to shift the rail a hair if you're unlucky. One clamp is sufficient to prevent that shift.

Tomorrow I'll run the cross-holes using the dogs and my spacer to assist in rail placement. The spacer is at least as accurate as the edge guides, so I'm optimistic that I'll get the same accuracy.

I'd planned to "skip" the holes over the internal support stretchers, and I completely forgot about that.[scared] I caught a break, in that none of the holes work out to be on top of those stretchers.
 
shap said:
Brad: Placing the T-Tracks that way is an interesting choice. I was debating doing something similar, but I was very concerned about hitting the track with a saw and decided to hold off. I suspect that I'll end up routing away "submerged" areas of the MDF for cross cuts and rip cuts, or just use the same part of the table when I do those cuts.

How is the mix working out for you? And given you say you prefer clamping on T-Track, what use do you still find yourself making of the holey table?

- Jonathan
Click to expand...

It's been great so far.  I have sacrificial cleats that I plagiarized from another member for on the table.  I also have a separate 4x4 and 4x8 table for braking down larger sheet goods. 

I do use the holes for clamping but I find that there are lots of instances where I prefer the infinite adjustment of the t-track on the rail for clamping.  I find I do a lot of work on the edge of the table with the router and jig saw.  For that it works great.  My main use of the holes on this bench is alignment using parf dogs.  And soon to be trying a set of qwas dogs attached to me mafell/bosch rails.

 
Claimdude said:
Jim,

I built an MFT/Paulk/JackBench hybrid about a year or so ago. Attached are a couple of pics. I have more if you are interested. I recently added a Moxon Vise that I mounted in a wood frame and hooks into the 20mm holes on the MFT top.

Jack
Click to expand...

I'd be interested in seeing more of this bench design.

Thanks.

karl
 
TomMcMillan said:
What are doing (going to do) at the perimeter of the mdf table top, and how do the legs connect to it??
Click to expand...

Tom: On reflection, I'm thinking I should pay attention to this. I had been planning to do a round of Danish Oil on the MDF, but now I'm wondering if I should put some kind of facing on it. Thankfully, you caught me before I attached it, so it's not too late. :-)

What would you suggest?

Jonathan
 
Claimdude/Jack
Great build and ideas on your bench, I too would be interested in more...I'll check your link to see the vise.
 
Shap,

I'm afraid Jim Reed's original topic, the perimeter rail T-slots on the MFT, has gotten hopelessly highjacked, but I guess we should just go with that.

I've found that the finish provided by MDF is really unforgiving regarding stains and wondered about alternative finishes myself. MDF's great virtue is its flatness, which like squareness, is next to godliness. One doesn't want to give that up just because it has an absorbent finish. I've begun experimenting with staining it with colored dye stain and giving it a clear protective finish, but haven't gotten very far because I've been traveling. My thinking was that a rub-on polyurethane gel like Good Stuff would probably be the best direction for that. Oil is pretty vulnerable in a shop setting.

 
Peter Parfitt recommended Osmo polyx, so I used it on my met/3 and am really pleased.  I put two coats on and it turned out great.  Haven't tried any glue ups on it, but will more than likely use tape if I do.  Bill
 
shap said:
Do recall the part number for that extrusion?
Click to expand...

Hello Shap,

if the question was meant for me, the 80x40 profile is 0.0.026.04.
You might have a look at the 80x16 profile they have which has 2 slots, if you just want to fix the rail on the sides of your own table.

Max
 
Thank you, Max. I probably will go with a different vendor that I've worked with before, but it's very helpful to be able to confirm slot dimensions against something that is know to work.

Jonathan
 
I used wooden t-track on my old RAS/CMS crosscut table for the movable stops.  I am planning to do the same on the next one.  Ron Paulk uses them for stops too.  I don't know how much weight they would take but for stops mine worked fine.  I'd like to use Baltic birch plywood or maybe straight grained hardwood for the track.  Softwood plywood might work except if you find a void. 
 
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