Built in desk need input

[DynaGlide]

I'm in the very early planning stages of a built in desk w/ doors/drawers and wall mounted cabinets.

The space is approx 29" deep by 61" wide.

I've never built a proper cabinet before if you don't count my DIY sysport(s) so this will be my first. I had plans to attend a Festool training class on the subject but it didn't work out. I've seen all the erock videos on using the Festool system to do it and after Christmas it's going to be time to start putting everything to use. Typically when I start a project I mock everything up in Sketchup. Are there ready to go models that will get me mostly there? I started looking at the library briefly.

I'm at a very rough design stage now and looking for some feedback. I've been slowly deal hunting over the last year and a half in anticipation of several built ins for the home. This will be the first of many and it needs to look nice. I have the following at my disposal:

Domino, LR32, TS55 w/ solid surface blade, sanders, OF 1400, MFK 700, Fuji Minimite.

Things I don't have that may limit my options: router table, planer/jointer, table saw

I'm considering the following:

• Melamine for the boxes
• Leveling feet instead of a ladder base to access possible wiring as one of the network cables needs to go from the wall to the middle of the room where my work desk is
• Slab doors instead of frame and panel given the lack of wood machining tools

Requirements wise I would like to store the desktop in one of the cabinets under the desk with ventilation and wire routing. Maybe a knock out panel at the rear to access the electrical outlet when needed. Material for the top and hardware for the drawers/doors is undecided at this point.

I realize a lot of this will come naturally to those who have been there/done that and I appreciate any and all input.

 

[ctvader]

I may not be much help (there are way more talented folks than me on here) but here is what I would do:
* Find out how big of a 'desk' area you want and center off that basing your cabinet measurements off the reaming space you have left
* use leveling feet but incorp a toe kick.  You can also make a separate base frame to shim/level, placing cabinets on that
* I would use 3/4 ply cab grade for boxes and drawers. 
* I would do inset doors, 1.5" poplar face frame.  Keep the left and right side of the face frame heavy so you can scribe the fit
* I would leave the cabinet box with the PC tower in to vented on the side and/or rear.  Leave a space for cables
* erocks videos are great - also following him on instagram; he give some good tips

I hope this helps.

 

[Svar]

Something to keep in mind when making computer desks.
Laptop computers and solid wood don't play well together. I know you mentioned desktop, but just in case. If laptop is used for hours daily, it heats and dries up the area under it unevenly causing the wood to crack. I had this happen on different tables and now use laptop cooling pads for insulation. Luckily the cracks closed up eventually.

 

[sancho57]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]

PM sent, hope it helps. Im looking for a cabinet making video for you. Very easy method min tools.

 

[mrFinpgh]

I'm assuming you're planning on doing this as frameless.  You'll have to plan for some kind of filler on the left and right and to scribe or float the wall to meet the filler (probably a better look, but a bit more time consuming).

I don't know if you're doing wood or paint, but in either case avoid plywood for the slab doors.  The likelihood of warping is too high.  If you are doing paint, then do whatever [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] suggests.  [big grin]

Melamine would keep the cost down, but it is heavier and a little more fussy than plywood.  You'll definitely save time w/ finishing.  You would have to consider how to cover up the exposed ends unless you like that look.

For me, I've had the most success using a file to clean up after edge banding.  The razor trimmers never seem to do a good job and I usually get tearout from them.  The file is aggressive but pretty much gets me there in one pass.

Between dominos and pocket screws, you shouldn't have any issues creating solid boxes.

My first router table was a 3' long piece of MDF with some reinforcing on the bottom to keep it flat.  Fence was a stick of 8/4 maple I planed flat. I used it to build a kitchen full of drawers.  Adjusting the OF1400 from underneath a table mounted on some sawhorses is a little bit of a pain, but for 1/2" grooves, it's not a big deal if they are a little deeper than you need them to be.

Greg Paolini's books are very straightforward and easy to follow along. Danny Proulx is good, too but probably a little dated by now.

The most important element of all of this is this: if you live with a significant other, sandbag the timeline - everything takes longer the first time around and work has a way of eating into ideal progress.

-Adam

 

[Michael Kellough]

The get a desk into a space like that requires that the desk be undersized and then fitted with a face frame (or some kind of filler strips) made to fit the opening. Might be better to make a built-in desk from the get go.

 

[Sparktrician]

For the desk surface, I'm going to suggest using 1.5" MDF (or two layers of 3/4" MDF glued together.  Cover it with Formica or Wilsonart laminate in your choice of texture and color.  The laminate is far more resistant to abrasion and chipping than melamine.  I have some chip chains if you want to look them over.  An alternative might be to buy a piece of pre-formed desktop from California Closets in a width just a bit larger than you need, then cut it to fit the actual space where you're going to install it, scribing as necessary.  Build your base using one or two muffin fans to pull in cooler air from the toekick area and vent it through screened doors.  [smile]

 

[Gregor]

Build your base using one or two muffin fans to pull in cooler air from the toekick area and vent it through screened doors.  [smile]

From my experience I would suggest to pull fresh air from as high as possible instead of the toekick area, way less dust up there...

Also it's better to funnel the exhaust air from the PC (flexible hose, can easily be connected with some magnets to the case around the exhaust port) away instead of using fans to deliver 'fresh' air - each fan adds noise.

 

[DynaGlide]

Thank you everyone for the valuable input. I may be putting this on pause as I just signed up for a Woodworking and Cabinetry class via the local Adult Education program. It's 36 hours over 12 weeks and I suspect will answer a lot of my beginner questions. But i will keep everyone posted once I get going.