Buying a used PS 300 EQ-plus jigsaw - Good/Bad idea?

[alexis]

Hei FOGers!

I need to get a jigsaw and was considering purchasing a used PS 300 EQ from 2013.

It seems to have been well taken care of, and to be in good condition. The brushes aren't too used. The seller has a lot of good reviews and sells it for ~190€. A new one retails for ~450€ here in Norway.

Does that seem like a good idea/deal? Are there any special considerations or issues I should be aware of/look for?

 

[Jim_in_PA]

I have an older one that has served me well and that I use more frequently than I imagined I would. In fact, it was my first Festool purchase from "Uncle Bob" so many years ago. (a purchasing habit that grew quickly I'm afraid to admit. LOL) I bought it because it felt good and was surprisingly accurate for cutting thicker material. Buying used gear always comes with some risk, but Festool products tend to have really good longevity. So unless that tool was used hard, it's likely a nice acquisition for you.

 

[six-point socket II]

Looks like a well used but taken care of tool to me. If the dealer's/seller's reputation and past deals generally fit/ line up with this offering, I don't see anything wrong with it. Label with serial# on both tool and systainer intact is a good sign as well.

However, do your due diligence and be prepared to have it serviced if there is a problem you can't fix yourself.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[alexis]

Thank you both, that confirms my initial impression. I'll go ahead and buy it! One at a time..  [big grin]

 

[derekcohen]

I did exactly this about 12 months ago. Good machine. Took a little getting used to after an upright Makita.

Most of my hand power tools have been purchased used. Choose carefully from quality makers, like Festool, and you will be rewarded.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[gfinn]

It's a great tool, I have the same model and love it. Except that every time I use it, I wish it had an LED light illuminating the blade path. Other than that, no complaints.

Cheers from California,

Greg

 

[Crazyraceguy]

It's a great tool, I have the same model and love it. Except that every time I use it, I wish it had an LED light illuminating the blade path. Other than that, no complaints.

Cheers from California,

Greg

The light and about half the weight are what you get with a Carvex.

It always takes some getting used to, when switching to a barrel-grip saw, but I prefer them.

 

[alexis]

Just curious, do you guys usually use it to cut from below? I've read some Trion users complain about visibility. I've never tried cutting from below before, but I can see the benefits. It does seem like that would add a bit of a learning curve at first though.

 

[MikeGE]

The light and about half the weight are what you get with a Carvex.

It always takes some getting used to, when switching to a barrel-grip saw, but I prefer them.

When I was shopping for a new Jigsaw, I wanted the Carvex.  My Festool dealer had plenty in stock, but strongly suggested I buy the Mafell P1cc or the PS 300 and avoid the Carvex.  When I asked why, the answer was the Carvex was the most returned Festool machine they carried.

I would have bought the P1cc, but they didn't have any in stock or know when any would arrive.  I bought the barrel-grip PS 300 and aside from the lack of the LED for the blade, I am very happy with it.

 

[six-point socket II]

I use my Carvex every way I see fit.  [big grin] [big grin] [big grin]

Depending on what I do, I do cut from below. Foremost it's simply about habituation, if you're used to it, you do it almost automatically/ instanly.

Originally it simply was, maybe sometimes still is, the best way to achieve a clean cut on the visible side/surface of whatever you cut.

With many of today's saw blades you can achieve the same quality of cut from above as easily.

Visibility can be an issue, cutting from below eliminates that.

Before the Carvex I had a Bosch 135 with a "blower" function that kept the line visible at all times. With the Carvex I mostly use dust extraction and don't have a problem following the line.

Try it & find out what works for you best.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Adamsse]

Just curious, do you guys usually use it to cut from below? I've read some Trion users complain about visibility. I've never tried cutting from below before, but I can see the benefits. It does seem like that would add a bit of a learning curve at first though.

I bought a refurbished Trion off of the Recon site and love it.  When I need clear visibility to really toe a line, I just remove the plastic chip guard cover in front which is designed to improve dust extraction. Too easy.

 

[Jim_in_PA]

I bought a refurbished Trion off of the Recon site and love it.  When I need clear visibility to really toe a line, I just remove the plastic chip guard cover in front which is designed to improve dust extraction. Too easy.

Ironically, I just actually found the clear ship cover for my Trion in a box I was unpacking after moving shop. I don't think I've used it for about 15 years. LOL

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I use the cover on my Carvex all the time, the dust extraction is vastly improved with it. However, it does not work with all of the bases, especially the tilt/bevel base.
I had a Bosch for many years before, and there was a bit of a learning curve, since the barrel grip was so different. The blower does indeed keep the cut line clean, but it is also is just blowing it onto the floor.
Fortunately, the dust isn't as much of a problem on a beveled cut with the Carvex's type of tilt base.
What shocked me the most though was the weight of the PS300 Trion in comparison to the Carvex. The Trion is heavy (very).

For some reason, the upsidedown cut seems to be a UK thing? at least mostly?
I think that it might be a material situation though. When they (UK) do laminate "worktops" the substrate is solid, meaning that the bottom is as flat as the top.
In the US, a laminate countertop is usually made from thinner material and built-up at the edges, thus the bottom is not flat. This makes for a rough go at sawing out a sink hole from below. Here we usually cut them from above with down-stroke cutting blades. This is not ideal though, because the orbital/pendulum action is working against the cutting. So, you turn that feature off, and the cutting is not so great either.

 

[derekcohen]

I bought a refurbished Trion off of the Recon site and love it.  When I need clear visibility to really toe a line, I just remove the plastic chip guard cover in front which is designed to improve dust extraction. Too easy.

Jim, that’s exactly the solution I found!  The visibility is poor with the chip guard in place. Removing it allows much more light it. Dust control is still decent.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Coen]

Lolol. Seller washed the inlay but didn't let it dry? It's still wet.

See if the carbide guides are in alignment before you use them. The part they are attached to is fixed with only one screw.

 

[alexis]

Thanks for all the great tips on using the jigsaw! I think I'll try and learn how to cut from below the surface as that seems to offer the best visibility in most conditions. I'd rather avoid removing the chip guard as it does seem to play a critical role in cooling the motor, especially at low speeds when the airflow is low.

In the US, a laminate countertop is usually made from thinner material and built-up at the edges, thus the bottom is not flat.

Is that what they call veneer? From what I can tell laminates are essentially flat thin sheets of paper and plastic glued and pressed together which are then pressed on top of plywood and particleboards. Thanks for sharing that information, I had no idea the process was different in the US than it is in the EU. In Norway and in France at least, both surfaces should be flat.

Lolol. Seller washed the inlay but didn't let it dry? It's still wet.

See if the carbide guides are in alignment before you use them. The part they are attached to is fixed with only one screw.

I noticed that too yes. I think that's a good sign though, most sellers don't even bother cleaning their tools :/

I'll definitely check the alignment thanks! I'm going to follow the instructions from that Festool 2010 video on aligning the carbide guides

 

[Holzhacker]

To start, this is NOT a complaint. Just an FYI for others when thinking about repair of a tool, buying a used tool or buying new.
I recently sent my jigsaw to festool for repair. The lifter rod, guide bushings all need replacement. Not a tool failure as far as I'm concerned. Just years of being on job sites.
Festool sent me a repair estimate, $302 total. If you look on festoolnirvana or toolnut I can order a new one for $315. It makes it so hard to fix anything these days. I prefer to fix tools but in this case I just don't know. Have to think about it this afternoon.

 

[Cheese]

Festool sent me a repair estimate, $302 total. If you look on festoolnirvana or toolnut I can order a new one for $315. It makes it so hard to fix anything these days. I prefer to fix tools but in this case I just don't know. Have to think about it this afternoon.

I wonder...[scratch chin]...if you refuse the repair and do not ask for the parts (because it will be in pieces) to be returned, does this item eventually become part of the Festool Recon site?

 

[Coen]

Thanks for all the great tips on using the jigsaw! I think I'll try and learn how to cut from below the surface as that seems to offer the best visibility in most conditions. I'd rather avoid removing the chip guard as it does seem to play a critical role in cooling the motor, especially at low speeds when the airflow is low.

In the US, a laminate countertop is usually made from thinner material and built-up at the edges, thus the bottom is not flat.

Is that what they call veneer? From what I can tell laminates are essentially flat thin sheets of paper and plastic glued and pressed together which are then pressed on top of plywood and particleboards. Thanks for sharing that information, I had no idea the process was different in the US than it is in the EU. In Norway and in France at least, both surfaces should be flat.

Lolol. Seller washed the inlay but didn't let it dry? It's still wet.

See if the carbide guides are in alignment before you use them. The part they are attached to is fixed with only one screw.

I noticed that too yes. I think that's a good sign though, most sellers don't even bother cleaning their tools :/

I'll definitely check the alignment thanks! I'm going to follow the instructions from that Festool 2010 video on aligning the carbide guides

Countertops with raised edges are typically applied in kitches without dishwasher, so water goes into the sink before it can go over the edge. In newer kitchens with diswasher the countertop is more often completely flat.

That video is not exactly what I meant. It assumes the pair is already aligned equidistant from the sawblade.

 

[Coen]

To start, this is NOT a complaint. Just an FYI for others when thinking about repair of a tool, buying a used tool or buying new.
I recently sent my jigsaw to festool for repair. The lifter rod, guide bushings all need replacement. Not a tool failure as far as I'm concerned. Just years of being on job sites.
Festool sent me a repair estimate, $302 total. If you look on festoolnirvana or toolnut I can order a new one for $315. It makes it so hard to fix anything these days. I prefer to fix tools but in this case I just don't know. Have to think about it this afternoon.

[eek]

I'd rather replace worn out parts myself then. For $7 I would just get the new tool.