C18 Problems

[Climber39]

I've been using a C18 drill/driver for the last 5 months. It's become my go-to drill in my shop. I love it. And I was hesitant about having one tool and switching the chucks when i needed one or the other.  I was pleasantly surprised by how n easy and convenient it was.  So I was shocked when the C18 surpassed my Makita Drill and Driver kit as my first choice. That is until yesterday...
Mybguess is that the clutch is no longer working.  The drill turns fast regardless of what mode setting  or clutch setting its on.  And it was working fine the day before yesterday.  Apparently the electronic clutch is malfunctioning, or fried.  Which I'm sure can be fixed, it's just aggravating to pay so much for a drill,  and have it fail so early.  My Makita has been going strong for 5 years.  And I have a Milwaukee that is at least 20 years old.  It's never given me any issues.

Now I'm going to have to send the C18 off and endure an expensive and lengthy repair process. The drill still runs,  but it's one speed only,  regardless of whether you're in drill or driver mode, or what clutch setting you're using.

Does anyone here,  have any experience with this problem? Or clutch repairs on any Festool  drill? I'm just curious about the cost and turn around time.  I'm curious if I'd be better off selling the 2 5.2ah Airstream Bluetooth batteries and charger,  and then selling the drill as-is to someone that feels like dealing with the repair process.

 

[mrboult]

You don’t have any warranty left then? All festool have 3 years from original purchase.

When you say “1 speed” do you mean of gears 1&2 or do you mean torque on the clutch settings. And do you still have speed modulation through the trigger? I guess I’m trying to isolate one failure and maybe spray contact cleaner into that selector switch? But not if it’s only 5 months old, and in that case you’d just send it in for free repair. .

I’m sorry you’ve had this issue. For my part I’ve had three T-18s, and they’ve all been fine. The first one was barely recognisable as a festool drill, so battered from abuse by the time I sold it on for a pittance (wanted one with the new belt clip instead). So in my experience you’ve been unlucky.

 

[Chris Cianci]

I sent mine back for a different issue and the process was super quick and easy......my repair was free. I was amazed at the turnaround time. Go to the Festool site , fill out a repair order , you can even print a label. I’m of the opinion that any company can be cooperative at the time  of sale It’s when there’s a problem that they are tested......I’d say Test them
Best

 

[Climber39]

I sent mine back for a different issue and the process was super quick and easy......my repair was free. I was amazed at the turnaround time. Go to the Festool site , fill out a repair order , you can even print a label. I’m of the opinion that any company can be cooperative at the time  of sale It’s when there’s a problem that they are tested......I’d say Test them
Best

I called them today.  As soon as I mentioned that i purchased it from an individual,  the guy lost all interest in helping me. Oh, well. I'll send it to them.  If it's  reasonable to repair,  I will.  If not,  I'll just buy a different drill.  I like the Mafell drill. It looks  like it's tough, and would last a lifetime. 

 

[mrboult]

The warranty should exist for the tool (3 years). Owner doesn’t matter as far as I am aware.

 

[Climber39]

The warranty should exist for the tool (3 years). Owner doesn’t matter as far as I am aware.

I sent you a PM

 

[Doug S]

I had a T15 drill on which the electric brake stopped working, it was just out of warranty and I was told it would need new electronics and would cost over £200 to fix  [eek]

I have always understood that the warranty goes with the tool not the owner so you should be okay.

I think the Mafell drills are just re badged Metabo with a price increase?

 

[Climber39]

I had a T15 drill on which the electric brake stopped working, it was just out of warranty and I was told it would need new electronics and would cost over £200 to fix  [eek]

I have always understood that the warranty goes with the tool not the owner so you should be okay.

I think the Mafell drills are just re badged Metabo with a price increase?

I'm hoping it won't be that expensive.  If it is,  I'm probably going to look around at  some other drills. I went back and looked,  and I think you're right about the Mafell. It does look similar to the Metabo.  I'm curious if anyone has had their hands on the Makita 40v line. I've been happy with all my Makita tools over the years. 

I just hate that my drill stopped working properly.  I love that thing.  It really did what I needed it to do very well. I'd be curious to see how the PDC18 preforms.  It definitely looks robust.

 

[Hawkeye0001]

Sorry to hear about your C18. If it's out of warranty I'd open it up and take a peak at the inside - could simply be the switch. Like all Festools they're generally pretty easy to fix if you manage locate the problem.

Regarding the PDC: if you only do woodworking save yourself the 200g / 7oz the hammer function adds to the PDC and get the DRC model instead. It's the same drill but ligher, shorter and without said ridiculously noisy hammer function (that generates holes as rather a byproduct of all that noise and heat...) That way the DRC handles pretty much the same as the T18 does but offers heaps more in terms of performance and functionality and I find it just as precise. Gonna sell my T18 soon, haven't touched it since (and I was in love with that drill!)

 

[mrboult]

Sorry to hear about your C18. If it's out of warranty I'd open it up and take a peak at the inside - could simply be the switch. Like all Festools they're generally pretty easy to fix if you manage locate the problem.

Regarding the PDC: if you only do woodworking save yourself the 200g / 7oz the hammer function adds to the PDC and get the DRC model instead. It's the same drill but ligher, shorter and without said ridiculously noisy hammer function (that generates holes as rather a byproduct of all that noise and heat...) That way the DRC handles pretty much the same as the T18 does but offers heaps more in terms of performance and functionality and I find it just as precise. Gonna sell my T18 soon, haven't touched it since (and I was in love with that drill!)

I agree. I returned my PDC for the DRC for the exact reasons you mentioned. Much preferred it. However, unlike you, the novelty wore off and I realised I preferred the simplicity and even lighter weight of my old T18. So after some procrastination I sold the DRC for another t18 and never looked back. .  Horses for courses. 

 

[FestitaMakool]

If you haven’t sent it back yet and you’re comfortable taking a sneak peek inside your C18 - I could be as Hawkeye0001 says. It might just be dislocation of the drill/screwdriver selector? Do you feel the detent when moving this switch? Or is it feeling abnormal, sticky, not travelling all the way? There’s probably a transfer of the movement of the outer sliding selector to a switch inside, check that. If not check that the switch inside make positive movements. Since the drill is only going fast (I presume you can select gear 1 and 2?) most likely its the selector that switches between drilling and screw driving. Since you bought it second hand you’ll never know if it have had a drop or knock - which could have hidden a fault waiting to happen.

I have the C18 myself, but rarely use it.. I grab my Makita’s as a second nature. They have never had any reason to be opened. (Nor do I expect the C18 to do either)