Cabinet Paralysis from Analysis

[iamnothim]

I started.  Laundry Room.  One Base, Two Uppers.  Add 5' Bead board walls caps and crown.

Arsenal:
TS 55 REQ
LR32
OF 1400
MFK 700  (On it's way)  [smile]
MFT/3 (two)
CMS/ VL
Domino 500   Still in the Systainer waiting for the dominos and bits.
Other stuff.

Educational Material:
CabMaker32 and CutMaster Pro software.  Running on my Mac using Parallels
The "KISS II" document from GRASS
"A Curriculum for teaching 32mm Cabinet Construction.
Taunton's "Bookcase Cabinets and Builtin's"
Various YouTube videos.

I still cut the sheet wrong.  Twice.

I need PICTURE BOOKS !   Please

 

[nclemmons]

First, I assume this is a sink base, but maybe I'm making the wrong assumption.  Curious why you limited yourself to only a 24" base?  Was that all you could handle in the space?  I only ask because in laundry rooms, you often want space next to the sink for holding soaps and cleaners and even a larger space for folding laundry.

I noticed you didn't allow a false front in front of what I assume is a sink base since you made the doors full-height.  I think the dimensions might look better on that narrow a cabinet to have shorter doors and the false front above them.

The dimensions on your sketch up drawing don't quite look accurate - it's a 24" base but the stiles are looking to be 1.5" according to the 40mm yet they appear wider than that against a 24" width.  Sorry but I still think in inches and fractions!

One other observation - make the toe-kick cover the sides at the bottom rather than being inset between the sides.  it will look better.

Good progress so far, and it looks like you have plenty of tools to make a go of it.

One other thought - have you browsed the 3D warehouse from within Sketchup?  It may let you pull in some pre-made cabinets from multiple cabinet brands that have models in the warehouse for downloading directly into Sketchup.

Thanks for sharing

neil

 

[iamnothim]

Hi Neil,
I greatly appreciate you reading my post and writing a detailed response.  I mixed my responses with your post.

I made the sides 25 x multiple of 32.  I’m going to break out the LR32 today and make sawdust out of perfectly good pre-finished birch ply.
Yesterday I ordered the Blum hinges.  That’s has a 90% disaster factor.  

First, I assume this is a sink base Correct, but maybe I'm making the wrong assumption.  Curious why you limited yourself to only a 24" base?  The Room is small.  All cabinets are direct replacements for the existing cabinets. Was that all you could handle in the space? Yup.  I only ask because in laundry rooms, you often want space next to the sink for holding soaps and cleaners and even a larger space for folding laundry.  No can do.

I noticed you didn't allow a false front in front of what I assume is a sink base since you made the doors full-height. The Boss doesn’t want one.  We are both tall and want the most visibility when looking down.  I think the dimensions might look better on that narrow a cabinet to have shorter doors and the false front above them.  Probably true.  She wanted wider stiles and rails to go with the breadboard look I will install.  The uppers have 90mm (3.5”) S&R  the sink is 80mm (3.1”) but I will probably trim it some more.

The dimensions on your sketch up drawing don't quite look accurate - it's a 24" base but the stiles are looking to be 1.5" according to the 40mm yet they appear wider than that against a 24" width.  Sorry but I still think in inches and fractions!  I've checked them quite a few times.  In the end, I'll build the boxes first then match the doors to the necessary hinge reveal.

One other observation - make the toe-kick cover the sides at the bottom rather than being inset between the sides.  it will look better.  I think you are saying take the sides to the floor and don’t notch the toe kick.  I want to integrate the cabinet base into the box.  I ordered some of the black plastic adjustable feet to install under the cabinet bottom behind a kick facia.  Only the left side of the sink cab is visible and I want to notch it so our big feet don’t catch it and trip.

Good progress so far, and it looks like you have plenty of tools to make a go of it.  Thank You !  [smile]

One other thought - have you browsed the 3D warehouse from within Sketchup?  It may let you pull in some pre-made cabinets from multiple cabinet brands that have models in the warehouse for downloading directly into Sketchup. I’m not very proficient with Sketchup.  CabMaker32 Software passes the cabinet dimensions to Sketchup and it renders the cabinet(s) for you.  Very slick.  It will also convert your cabinet dimensions back and forth between metric and imperial.  It also passes it to CutMaster and lays out the parts on the proper sheet goods minimizing waste.

Here's the SketchUp rendering of the room from Cab32.  I "hid" the two doors.

 

[NuggyBuggy]

One other observation - make the toe-kick cover the sides at the bottom rather than being inset between the sides.  it will look better.

I think you are saying take the sides to the floor and don’t notch the toe kick.

He's saying make the width of the toe-kick span the entire base of the cabinet so that you don't see the ends of the sides when facing head on.

 

[iamnothim]

He's saying make the width of the toe-kick span the entire base of the cabinet so that you don't see the ends of the sides when facing head on.

Got it.
THANKS !

 

[iamnothim]

I used my LR32 today.  It's great.  I wouldn't have been successful without MrBigRock's how-to video.

 

[Worm Drive]

He's saying make the width of the toe-kick span the entire base of the cabinet so that you don't see the ends of the sides when facing head on.

Got it.
THANKS !

Or if you have 1/4" plywood, use that to cover the toe kick, after the cabinet is installed. It can be scribed to the floor, if need be.

 

[iamnothim]

Well….  The first cabinet certainly has some worts.  Extra domino holes on the top sides.    They’ll be hidden.  Then there’s the issue with I had where I had to flip a side panel, inside to outside. It already had a dado for the back…... [crying] and a hinge hole or four…. [crying]  I think I’ll cover the side with breadboard.

I calibrated my Domino and used it for the first time today.  When I orient the story stick correctly everything lines up great and the top/bottom/sides are flush.

Next I had to go and try to trim the edge banding with my Bosch Colt.  Hamburger'd  it real good.  [crying]  I should have A) Used a chisel  B) Waited for my MFK 700 to arrive.
This is the first time working with veneer that it didn’t work with the Colt.  It was also the first time trimming on the edge.  Even though the 700 has all the whizz bang edging features,  I’m thinking the chisel will be the best bet.

Time to walk away for the day.    At least it's square and sturdy.

 

[iamnothim]

Or if you have 1/4" plywood, use that to cover the toe kick, after the cabinet is installed. It can be scribed to the floor, if need be.

I think I'll use 18mm since I have that edge banding.
I am embracing metric.    [smile]

I'll post some pics when the caracas is assembled.
Forgot about my Lie Nielsen small chisel plane.  It's doing a nice job

 

[sancho57]

Bud sorry for being late, but for the toe kick all ya need to do Is cut up some 2x4's screw them together , shim them up to level then secure it to the floor (just use screws if ya got a raised foundation) Place the cab on the 2 x4 s shim and secure it to the wall and your in good shape.

To assemble the cab, In my per domino days I just use screws counter sinked and cover them up with a counter top or moulding etc.

You can also use a domino to strengthen and align the bottom panel and pocket holes .

pocket holes and a domino combo makes a pretty simple and strong joint

hope this helps

 

[iamnothim]

@Jobsworth...It’s never late.  I appreciate anyone reading my post or responding with ideas or criticism. It’s all good.

I used my Domino for the first time and assembled the caracas.  I love that machine and I love the Domiplate.  I also used pocket screws on the top and bottom.  I will cut out the top for the sink after I pick one out.  I’m thinking I will use teak for the counter and splash since the cabinet is stand alone and I only need to surround the sink and make a splash.

I have some real learning / memory problems (medication) and make mistakes every step of the way even after checking my work 4-5 times.  Cutting miter joints parallel rather than perpendicular.  339mm becomes 390mm.  After I assembled the caracas I noticed I put the bottom above the line marking 18mm rather than below.  This means it will look hokey when the doors are open and the side drawer slides I ordered for the bottom pull-out tray won’t fit. I will return them and use under mount slides.  How does that happen???  I domino’d both sides and assembled before I saw the mistake.  Next I burned the edge banding with my soon to be sold Colt trim router.  A Lie-Nielsen chisel plane was fare more forgiving.  I’m going to think very hard about keeping the MFK 700 when it arrives. 

These issues make this a challenging hobby for me.  If it wasn’t for the LR32 I’d just have sawdust.  I also proof and re-write my posts 5-6 times.  So don’t bust my chops if it reads like a sixth grade.

Since the side of the cab is visible (I jacked that up too) I’ll use the black plastic feet.  The walls will be bead-board so I will now cover the side too.  I have loads of scrap pre-finished 3/4 ply for the toe kick facia.  The good news is the caracas is square and the doors came out nicely…. for paint grade.  If they were solid hardwood it would be a C-

I’m sure this isn’t new to a lot of builders, but I’m feeling pretty proud about figuring out how to make an adjustable stop for repeat miter cuts.  I blew the dust off my MFT/3 protractor and used it as a stop.  Worked perfect.  I used the low profile Woodpecker Delrin Dogs under the guide rail to hole the workpiece at 45deg.

That said here are the good, bad, and ugly pictures worts and all.  I also include a pic of my veneer table top, lest ya'll think I’m a total wood butcher.  I only made the top, not the table, to replace a damaged one.

 

[erock]

Don't be to hard on yourself.  Everyone starts some where.  The key is to learn from the mistakes. 

If I showed you pics of my first build you would laugh.  It was a  paint grade entrainment center with a lot of filler and caulk !

I think you'll like the MFK700 for trimming the edge banding.  Depending on the thickness and material, make test pieces and find the speed that works for the application.

I give you a A+ for sharing your project with us.  Most guys wouldn't have the jewels to share what they think are mistakes.

Keep it up and stay positive.  With some practice you'll come along nicely!  Especially since your using Festools !  [wink]

Eric