I usually use a small laser. I set it on anything handy. Take a few readings to see how level the floor is and establish my starting point. Then measure down from the arbitrary laser height then transfer that measurement to all the corners and at the end of runs. Then snap a chalk line and screw the ledger to the line tweaking it up or down as needed. Nice and straight and solid with minimal fuss. The ledger also helps provide support to the bottom panel on wide cabinets if you put heavy items in it, opposed to using just leveling feet front and back. You can and some people do, put a leveling foot in the middle for this but its rare from what I have seen.
Cabinets - Attached or Detached Toe Kick?
- Thread starter Bugsysiegals
- Start date
OH, and you are lucky to have a Menards. We had them where I used to live but all we have here in S. Florida is lowes and HD. Not sure if its a lowes/HD issue or a reginal thing but they are the worst stores. The shelves look like they are going out of business. If I was a HD stock owner I would be pissed they are losing money having all those holes on the shelves. It almost never fails I have to go to both or a 3rd store to get everything I need. I actually order as much as I can from Amazon or internet sources for anything I can because I hate going there. Not sure if menards has changed but they always had stock and tons of items HD didnt even carry. Menards is one of the few things I miss from Michigan along with coney dogs and golden city almond boneless chicken. 
On my jobs I always do a separate base that I level first, easier to level and we have a lot of older settled homes in New England so I am always having to level everything. Also it means I can get six side panels from a single 4x8 sheet and usually saves on waste. Another shop I work in does them all integrated. So I do both regularly depending on where I am working that day. My preference is for a detached base. However in small runs of a few base units or a vanity I will often do integrated toe kicks as it is less time on site.
tjbnwi
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We do detached. Set the ladder base to the floor, laser to check for level by measureing down, shims as needed. Our target finished cabinet height is normally 34-3/4. Even with a full gable side we do it this way. Leave the side a little long, scribe to floor.
With faceframe cabinets all of the shim work is hidden by the lower rail.
Euros, we install a lower valance on most. If I did a lot of euros, I'd go with adjustable legs.
Tom
With faceframe cabinets all of the shim work is hidden by the lower rail.
Euros, we install a lower valance on most. If I did a lot of euros, I'd go with adjustable legs.
Tom
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